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05-14-2014
Ok, well since you dug up a 6 year old thread, most shops should warranty their work once they install the cheapest hub they can and run it on w/ the wrong amount of preload torque. This is why most people change these themselves with a Timkin or other quality assembly.Originally Posted by jrdaniels56
05-14-2014
It's not that old I graduated high school in 08 for comparison lmao
05-14-2014
I graduated in '07 so it's ****ing old lol
05-14-2014
Old man
05-14-2014
Well Sh*t, seeing as how I graduated from HS in '95 I guess it makes this thread as old as time itself, lol....
05-15-2014
whats the difference if it's old if someone is having issues? you are reading it aren't you? others may search threads when they have problems
05-15-2014
I'd disagree with you about an air gun. I gun all my bearings and wheels. My bearings if anything last longer than most I see on here. As well, I drive harder than a lot of the guys on here. I recently had a tire guy look at my tires and ask me if I drifted the car daily. No idea why.. however even dealerships gun bearing nuts on. It's quality of part that often the issue.
05-16-2014
Well I graduated in 78 and if you read the original post he was getting salvage yard wheel bearings. I have been in the automotive business for 20 years and I don't know 1 shop that will install used hub assemblies . And I have about 45 shops I deal with daily. Timken bearings have no warranty if you use a impact gun on them. Timken factory rep told me that was the leading cause of premature hub failure.
05-16-2014
Quality bearing are key, been running 3800's for 10 years and never changed a low mileage brand name. I use impact but my impact is weak and shouldn't be over torqued.
2 bearings free shipping $58.
786 sold! I wouldn't get bearings from a junk yard, there are so many people putting on junk bearings.
Last edited by sseilmnop; 05-16-2014 at 05:38 AM.
05-16-2014
^ This.
A good tech can use a gun on almost anything and not overtighten.
Many moons ago I bought a '88 Regal off my buddy. I was doing the brakes and had to fight to get the rear lugs off. When I asked him what was going on, he told me that the rear brakes were "clicking", and he found that when he cranked the lug nuts up with an air gun, the noise went away. I'd guess he had them torqued to 150-170 ft/lb. I put a new shim on the brake pad and the noise went away.
Oh, and as I posted in some other wheel bearing thread, I just changed a bad SKF bearing, barely 2 years old.
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