Thread: Wheel studs and aftermarket wheels

I have aftermarket rims that have been causing me problems for close to a year now. I kept snapping the front studs, lugs kept coming lose, studs kept stripping, etc. Long story short, the dealership finally figured out that the studs where too short. I now keep all the tools I need to replace them on the spot in the trunk of my car and can have one replaced in about 15 minutes. In order to fit longer ones in there they have to be pounded in there in which case the threads get a bit screwed up. So I was wondering what size that huge nut on the axle is and how do I know what length studs I need to buy?

Thanks in advance!


I have ADR rims by the way

Thanks Geddy

I just confirmed that these are 114.3 Golden Apple Corporation

So basically the lugs arent seating properly?

Thanks for the info! I've learned more about this issue from this board in two days than I have in the past 1.5 years asking mechanic after mechanic.

These rims are 22.5lbs each according to one website. I'm not changing rims. Sorry but I just bought new tires for them and I would be taking a big loss by selling them. Even if they where 115mm pattern, the studs would still be too short.

So back to the original question... How do I determine the correct length for the studs?

You can use any wheel studs with a .509" knurl. I would recomend getting them from summit. They will be about 30 bucks shipped at the most.

I have to use longer studs for my wheels as well... I gottem from a NAPA store... w./ a GREAT look-up guy/counterman.

BEWARE THOGH >>> !!!


If U replace ur hubs EVER... make sure they're made in USA... there are three Countries Of Origin for many of the SAME PARTS... with the SAME PART NUMBER... the Madi In China parts usually have a different knurl size (larger) than he othe two... the Made In Korea (5) (the 5 means with US parts) are usually WAYYY inferior design, and are prone to failure.. tha Made In USA ones are typically a bit heavier duty and heavier in weight, all cost the same, are even packaged in identical boxes. BE SURE to check the UPC Label for the CoO information... it's the Law it has to be there.

As you might guess, I've had several "run-ins" with these cheap-ass hub/bearing/ABS sensor units. I've even had the studs sheer off at freeway speed....

If you need new studs, and there's ANY noise from ur hubs already, get new US MADE hubs, press out the studs on a vice w./a large socket , then "pull " the new, longer studs in ising a lug nut and spacer if needed. If U bang on the hubs or studs AT ALL, your bearing is as good as gone already... before you even put the new hubs on the car!!

You are also required to replace the axle nut (35mm) with a new one each time its removed. This is because the torque spec for it is 110 lb/ft. PLUS 1/4 further rotation!! This final torque increment actually BENDS THE THREADS of the nut onto the threads of the shaft (can U digg itt?) and if you were to torque it again to those specs, more'n likely the threads will be "bent" too far and break!! Cheapest I've found for the nuts?? Anywhere from $%.50 to $30.00 !!!


OK?? Have Fun!!

NTrails

I ordered studs from carquest that where labeled in their system "for aftermarket rims". They're about 1/2-3/4" longer than stock. I've only got them installed on one corner so far.

I found that it was damn near impossible to get the rear hub loose so I drilled a hole in the backing plate. Worked like a charm