Thread: Frustrating day...question about leak after cv axle change

Yesterday I went to complete my axle change out. I had to go to AutoZone to get the slide hammer because the prybar wasnt working for me.

Slidehammer works in one clean shot. I compare axles and the new NAPA one is shorter. I take a break until today. I go to Advance Auto and get an axle. It looks the same (splines, length, boot, etc). After dinner I decide to finish the job and give myself and hour to be done. Axle goes right in and clicks. I decide to go for a test drive. Brakes are really spongy. I had done a break job on all four wheels. I wonder if I was just used to driving my 2015 Fusion the last few days so I continue. Brakes get worse, I limp home and pull into the garage when the brakes fail completely. Damn brake line, shrouded in some silver crap, on the drivers side all by itself busted a hole in it.

Then I check my CV axle and boot and the see transmission fluid leakage around where driveshaft goes into the transmission. I am like ? I can/will fix that brake line but I am at a loss on the leak around the CV axle. Any thoughts???

The previous axle did not leak. I jacked up the passenger side as high as possible and didnt lose any fluid during the axle change.

Any help is appreciated!

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...psbs85tnkz.jpg

I hope you didn't use an autozone axle!! Yes trans fluid will leak when the axle is not in there. I had both out for a couple days and lost about 2-3 quarts.

Well, here is the big question. I looked at my oem axle and I have two choices

1. Regrease and reclamp original axle. Reinstall and if it doesn't leak then all good. If it also leaks then i am totally confused which axle to use with the acdelco seal I have being shipped to me...oem or advance auto axle.

2. Or pick up driveworks seal from advance auto today and install it along with the new axle.

Any tips for getting the seal out?

re-clamping is not that easy unless you have the cv boot clamp tool. expensive for a one time use. you can use oversized hose clamps but they look like crap and it can throw the balance of the shaft off. keep the OE axle just in case and install the aftermarket one. compare the seal to the axle before installing just to be sure it is the right fit.

As of removing the seal it can be a PITA. I have not found a seal puller that gets in there very well. I usually use a flat head screwdriver and go under the metal part of the seal surface in a few spots and then keep hitting the screw driver with a hammer until it pops out. a small pry bar can help also. BE CAREFUL not to gouge the mating surface on the transmission!! There are seal pullers that will probably work but the 2 I have do not. To put the seal back in I use a large axle nut socket and a hammer to tap it back in evenly. There are seal install tools but I sold mine when I got out of the auto profession.

thanks man, I am worried about getting that seal out but I will figure it out. Thanks again.

Ok, some notes for.my fellow noobs. The advance auto seal is the same as the Ac delco seal. Looked exactly the same.

Taking the axle out is way easier with a slide hammer and the claw hook tool, just go get it.

I just removed the 18mm Bolts for.the struts to get the axle out. Really easy.

I had.to use a sledge hammer to get the axle locked in. Just thread the nut on the end and.hit it.

Getting the axle seal out was a pain. I should have bought the $10 seal puller I saw at advance auto. I didn't and it took me forever to get it out. I used a block of wood to get the seal back in.