Thread: Remote start with pass key 3

Okay. I installed a Autopage RS-860 alarm with remote start a month ago in my 99 Montana. I bought it new like 5 years and 3 cars ago(So I procrastinated on installing it a little). I had everything I needed to install it and to bypass the pass key 3 system. And it works great! No problems remote starting the minivan at all. Starts every time on the first crank unless it sat for a bit. Then it has to crank again, but starts(it does that even with the key, fuel pump check valve issue). My problem I am having is, every so often after I remote start it the pass key light comes on. It starts up and runs and drives. But the light stays on for about 3 key cycles. Then the light shuts off. Seems like it does that to tell you there is something wrong with the pass key system. But if there was something wrong with it, wouldn't it cause the car not to start? It never does that when I use the key. Only when I do the remote start. So is there something else telling the pass key thing that there is no key? Maybe it's tied into the little switch for the key in ignition door chime? Any thoughts? Thanks Adam

Anyone?

Originally Posted by Dans 01

A spare key with a universal bypass would make the problem go away for sure.

Well...... That is exactly what I am using.

That is the reason I think that there has to be something else, that the pass key does not senses that makes the light come on.

The light comes on when I turn the key to the run position after the remote start. The loop is rapped around the key thing twice, just like the bypass instructions say too. And the alarm wire that the alarm instructions say to use for the bypass.

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There is a special write up for pk3 systems that use a universal bypass. Requires a diode inline to the bcm. I can give u the write up if u want... if this is not done you'll always have issues. You are using the only bypass that WILL work correctly

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Thanks! If you can, that would be awesome! I do have some spare diodes from the alarm/ remote start install. I hate having lights on the dash for no stupid reason. That was one of the main things when I did the wiring for the engine swap. Was to have everything work like it should with no lights on the dash, just because something was not wired correctly.

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Do what the diagram says. Period.

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And btw the status trigger (bluewhite) is active during the entire duration of the remote start even a second or two before it powers ignitions and accessories.. Not just during crank.

I'd explain how it works but rest assured it does.

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Call up directed electronics. You may have heard of them. LOL.

In a nut shell this prevents the bcm from seeing 2 keys at once. The whole pk3 system is picky and sensitive. I have fixed a few dozen pk3 vehicles over the last 10yrs. Directed came out with that diagram years ago and works great.

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Edit.

I'm done in this thread . Dan your a moron. I gave the op the fix. I wasn't asking for your input. I GUARANTEE I have more experience then you in anything electrical related.

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That happens a lot around here.

Hope you get it fixed Charlie.

Hey now guys. Don't need to start fighting about this. Everyone has there own way of doing things. So say do it this way and some say do it that way. But it does the same thing in the end.

Now I have been busy this past week or so. So I haven't been able to take a look at the minivan and see what is going on. Or try ether one of your guys ideas. But I have noticed it I step on the brake as I turn the key, the light does not come on. When I hit the brakes it kills the remote start. But as I turn the key at the same time it doesn't kill the engine. So I think the idea of you guys saying that the problem is the car is seeing to key codes, is correct. One from the bypass and one from the ignition key. Now on the one diagram you did post. I am lost with it. I don't have a set up like that. I have a gray box. DEI 20420 or something like that. It's just your basic bypass thing. I put the key in it. Run the antenna up to the transponder. And hook up two wires. One wire goes to the alarm, and the other goes to 12 volts at all times. And that's it. Nothing goes to the factory wiring for the passkey 3 thing. So I don't know how that diagram would work. If you can explain it for me, that might help me understand what it is I am trying to do. Thanks for the help from both of you guys! Two heads are better then one. Adam

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My attitude shows forth the ignorance you are expressing to a fix on the problem that was provided by DEI years ago. I have personally used it with a number of modules (not just a 556u like you keep trying to impose) it fixes them everytime..

It doesnt matter what Bypass module he is using as long as it has a keysense input. if it does not have one you Absolutely need one. The Diagram shows an Example of the 556u it does not mean you have to use this exact module. I didnt bother to ask or even read what module he was using because if he isnt using one with a key sense its not going to work correctly. stop trying to imply I said thats the only module that will work. I SAID THATS THE DIAGRAM FOR THE FIX.

I wasnt attempting to make you embarassed I can see you do a good job of that on your own by trying to come at me like Im immediately wrong..

I could care what youve got to say. I dont PM people. its pointless this is a thread with someone OTHER than you asking for help.


"Says this is the only part that will work. That is simply not true and I do know this from experience"

I did huh, NO I Said theres the FIX.

Heres my Exp... Im ASE Auto Electrical Certified. State Auto Electrical Certified. Master MECP Certified. 10yrs of Fulltime Experience Installing, Diagnosing, And Repairing Anything Electrical Including Data and Module Issues...... Id say my experience backs up my comments. you further your ability to prove your "experience" when you say this fix does nothing.


"Discredits another’s idea without ever having tried it"

What the hell are you talking about. you havent posted any thoughts or idea besides trying to tell me Im wrong.


"Got all upset because I could explain in explicit detail the function of that diagram where as your answer was to call DEI"

upset? I could care less, I said call DEI because I know that diagram fixes the Dummy Light on the dash and you were on the attack from the beginning like you something to prove I visit the site quite frequently from my phone on the go. Typing is a pain.

Montana, ventures,uplanders, grand prixs perhaps more are listed under this diagram to show how to fix the theft light issue. He even says in his last post if he pushes the brake as he turns the key on the light doesnt illuninate... hmm 2nd key isn't being seen

Btw I represent a company of guys just like me who only speak up when we know our ****. Im not being a jerk Im just done trying to convince some person who I care nothing about that they are wrong about their OPINION on whether this works.


And to clarify. I assumed from the beginning his bypass would have a key sense so therefore my bad for the misjudgment that still doesn't stray from the main point his bypass won't work properly.


I see your new to the site..good start.

Btw your grand prix won't need this. Its for pk3 and does not effect pre 04 gp's that do have it.