post up your audio equipment

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Originally Posted by Booba5185

Mine is a work in progress at the moment, but it's unique to say the least, lol. My head unit is Android based, running 4.2.2 currently, with and OBD2 USB adapter running Torque Pro so I can monitor the car and set up alarms for knock retard, temperature, etc. I run Power Amp for music, and have Viper4Android installed with it's EQ and such. From there it connects to an external crossover via 1 set of RCAs (more on this in a minute), that I've changed out all the OP Amps to Burr Browns and upgraded the filtering caps. For the sub I have an Orion 2150SX powering a JL W3, with a 0.5 farad cap. For the mids\highs I have an Infinity 475a 4 channel amp powering Infinity 60.9CS Kappa Components up front, and Kenwood KFC-S6983 in the rear. I also have 50 square feet of Peel N Seal, with more to put on, but it's too cold, lol. Here's some pics.
I don't have that sub amp anymore, but everything else is the same:

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ps6002e379.jpg

Peal N Seal and Infinity Woofer, outer skin of the door is also covered in Peal N Seal:

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ps27712c8d.jpg

New Op amps:
http://www.fordtruckclub.net/forum/p...0/dsc00484.jpg

Head Unit:
http://www.fordtruckclub.net/forum/p...0/dsc00588.jpg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2wpBcCaSkI

I've upgraded to a CS144 Alternator and dropped to a 1.9 pulley on it, so I should have around 120 amps at idle. I've ran new grounds from the battery to the frame, frame to the transmission, and frame to the alternator. I've also added charge wires to the fuse box and to the battery. Oh and I have 2 4 AWG wires run to the trunk for the 2 amps (sub amp has the cap on that wire), and my lights still dim. I'm not sure what to do about the dimming, so I'll continue fixing what i know is wrong, then worry about the dimming if it's still there. I know my Infinity amp has noise issues on the RCA inputs, and I know I need a slightly bigger sub box. I have a Memphis amp i'm in the process of repairing to replace the Infinity, and I've been talking to my local car audio shop (owned by my cousin) to buld me a new sub box, so we'll soon find out...

What do you guys think?

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You should post pics of where u grounded it at to the frame

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Amps are at the strut towers in the trunk, head unit is to the steering column (opposite side of the BCM grounds), ground on the battery is in the stock location, just bigger\soldered\sanded, and Transmission ground is basically in the same spot but on the driver side. My Orion is kinda weird though, it has 2 8 AWG wires coming out of it, no terminals. the 8 AWG ground is spliced into 2 8AWG wires that are grounded. I'm going to try and rip it apart and replace the ground (at least) with a 4 AWG.

I had issues with a battery so I replaced it about 2 weeks ago with an odyssey. I was getting 14 to 15.5v? I just thought it was maybe a little much battery for the car.

Reason why I did the big 3 upgrade was because I do have a sound system but also the original terminal connector clamps weren't clamping down on the terminals and that was going on for a while, I relized this after it popped of the terminal when driving. So I needed to change the clamps.

I believe that with the time that I drove (roughly 2 weeks) of a ****ty connection, that I totally burnt the alternator out and the battery was dead after we were done this job...

This is the only thing that I can think of and it makes sense because the cars volts drop when at idle and will go back up when the RMPs are higher..

Try an AD244 alt, they are bigger and produce more power and have the 4 pin oval. They are also very common and pretty cheap. They make a $30 bracket so it fits.

I am in contact with Singer, I'll end up going with his alternator. He offers a 180v at idle for the 04's. I'll need this if I'm going to be throwing 4000 watts at my Orions.

For now I'm just getting a stock alternator cause my buddy gets a good deal for gm parts so it won't cost me much.

Singer is $$$$$, try https://www.facebook.com/pages/DP-Au...57428421028081
or Exccesive Amperage, even Iraggi Alts
I have had all of their alts and have NEVER failed me!

Yeah. $702 American for the 180-320v. I'm Canadian so it'll be even more cause our dollar is suckin dank. I'll check those other ones out. Thanks for the help.

Woah! I got a used Excessive Amperage 300a for $300

That's cheap. The 320 is 559 or something just for the alternator then 62 shipping to Canada and 40 something for the paint.

2 15" Kicker CVX's in custom built to spec boxes. tuned to 32hz
Memphis PRD1000 amp
hit a 137 with 800w :cool::cool:

alpine cda-9813
JL audio XR component fronts
JL audio XR coaxial rears
JL audio 500/1
JL audio 300/4
JL audio 12w3v3 in a HO box

Who was it who ran their wiring through drivers side grommet in the fire wall?

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I got 4 runs of oversized 1/0 ga through the grommet on the passenger side, and a couple smaller wires for the external regulator for the alternator, etc.

How the he'll did u get 4 1/0 through there.

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Not me, both of mine are run up the center and come in on the passenger floor grommet.

Yea I got mine through drivers side easily. But I tried running them up the side and couldn't get the trim back on. Probably gonna have to pull the seat and run them up the center too

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Thinking about grabbing one of these. Guy who built my alternator recommended it. Did some research and with two batteries it seems good. Both batteries will have a different "full" voltage level. So if their not isolated from each other the stronger battery will only stay charged as much as the weaker battery.
http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-11461-...-isolator.aspx

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I have my 0g through the drivers side

I ran two 0 gauge through drivers side and one through passenger

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Lol nice.