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That Rockford kit may be alright, especially since you want the bass to compliment the music and not overpower it. I had a pair of JL Audio 12w1v2s in a prefab sealed box powered by an old school Kicker KX150.2 back in the day, and it surprised people when they found out what amplifier I was running lol.
Building a box is really easy to do and will give you a sense of accomplishment...and will end up being stronger and cheaper than buying prefab stuff.
Before rushing into your purchase, do some reading on stevemeadedesigns.com, I promise it's worth your time.
Just my .02 tho.
And don't even entertain that certain size subs sound better for certain musics....it's all about the enclosure. I've heard Metallica sound great on 18" DC Level 5's. People spewing **** about 10's being punchier and 15's needed for low lows don't know their head from their ass with car audio.
i heard these subs are pretty legit for the price: Clarion WQ3010D (WQ-3010D) 12" Dual 4 ohm WQ Car Subwoofer, but like the other guy said, skar, dc, ssa, are gonna be a better value than any mainstream brand.
pair those with this amp, which sean gtp already suggested and i second is a very good amp for the price. eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices
that would put u at $300. The prefab sealed dual 12 boxes are $50 at sonic so that would put your budget at $350. add another $50 for wiring.
edit- nvm, i just saw you wrote $300 as your budget
I just want a sub haha I'll figure it out.. I've come into a bit of money and have to decide what to buy. A sub amp etc, brakes and rotors, projectors, or struts. Our a combination of them.
how about this?....
Quote:
Hey there!
One of out forum vendors, VM Innovations, is offering an awesome deal just for our forum members! Make sure to check out the thread for all the details:
12" Rockford Fosgate P3D2-12 Sub Special @ 115 + Free Shipping - DIYMA Car Audio Forum
Enjoy!
The DIYMA Team
Indeed, that P3 paired with an APSM-1500 would give you a nice system for right around/under 300... before an enclosure lol. In any case, you'll be happy when you get some thump.
Ok. I'm gonna trust you guys on this one. Buying that sub, will figure the rest out when I get home this weekend.
I was happy with the morels i800, so ill trust you this time too haha
Or you can do it like we had to do before the internet forums and buy some pawn shop subs and boss amp. And get some primary wire to wire everything up with. Thats how we did shÃ*t back when I got my first car (circa 96'). You learn a lot that way.
Lol I just ordered it. Now that I'm for sure getting that one,i may consider building an enclosure..
honestly, as long as you can make a measurement, you shouldn't have a problem with your woodworking skills.
This might help: Subwoofer Enclosure Calculators, Fraction to Decimal, Parallel, Series, Port Length and Volume Calculators
Okay fatboy nows your chance haha. I need help with an enclosure.. .75 to 1.25 cubic feet, sealed, 12 inch woofer... Let me know if you can help with plans our whatever thanks!!
Fixed. :PQuote:
Originally Posted by Hippo Machine
Oh and look at the post I JUST made above you.
I thought sealed would be bettet for this setuppp. Ported it has to be exactly 1.79 cubic feet.
now that I'm possibly making a box, could I put the tweeters I ordered in there/should I?
if your gonna build the box, might as well build a ported one, unless your trying to save space
For someone that has never made an enclosure, I would start with a sealed enclosure. Unless you are really good at following specs. And no, you dont want to put the tweeters in your sub enclosure. Stay simple. Once you get comfortable building, move on to the ported enclosure.
I agree with Keith... or spend a few extra bucks and run a single 4" aeroport. That way, you're essentially building a sealed box, and sticking a tube in it lol... I'll show you how to calculate tuning and displacement for the port itself. In any case, this is how you calculate airspace, which is something you need to know whether doing sealed or ported: Length x width x depth (divided by) 1728. When you do this, make sure you take 1.5 inches off of each measurement to account for the fact that each wall is .75" thick, assuming that's what you'll use. So, say your box was 15" L, 18" W, and 7" D.... that'd give you 1890. Divided by 1728, that gives you 1.09 cubes. However, that is external... so you'd actually need to calculate for 13.5" L, 16.5" W, and 5.5" D..... that would give you 1225. Divided 1728, that gives you roughly .70 cubes. You can then factor in the displacement of your sub, which should be available on the product website. Those were just measurements I pulled out of my butt btw, not what you should actually build... I'd like you to understand what it is you're doing. If you need anymore help, lmk.... I'm sure I800 is full of knowledge as well.
Displacement is 0.194 cubic feet.
Should I just do a cube design or a slanted back one? What materials? How do you do like the carpeting in the out side and where do you get it?
The tweeters would be to complicated? Our would sound bad?
I'm thinking 14x18x10, and ordering a terminal cup and twelve inch grille thingy