Thread: Putting in a switch for subwoofers

Hey guys, so i plan on buying two 10 inch subs with an amp and a capacitor. Already decided on which im getting. My question for everyone is whether or not theres a way to wire all this to my aftermarket head unit but also put in a switch so im not blasting the subs all the time and so i can turn off the amp when the cars off so i dont drain the battery. Any help is appreciated. Dont be afraid to dumb it down lol.

get a switch.. and have it connect ya remote wire to ya amp and cdplayer... flip it on you got bass flip it off you got stock insides

You could do what GTPSHAWTY said or run a power wire to the switch then run a wire from the other part of the switch to the amp.

i've always just switched the remote turn on wire
if there isn't any voltage going thru the wire the amp won't "turn on"

Head units typically have a sub on/off option in the menu

^^ this. all the headunits ive ever had even the cheap one i used from walmart for a while had a sub on/off option or at least a subwoofer lever so when turned all the way down they didnt hit at all

so simply connecting the amp to the headunit by the remote control wire, a long wire lol, would have it go off with the head unit and prevent a battery drain? Sorry for repeating that lol I drive 30 miles everyday to the city and would hate to kill the battery, not many people are willing to help jump it in the city nor is a tow exactly cheap

Most amplifiers will not turn on without being wired to the head unit. So as long as the head unit is on, the amplifier is on. IF you still want to listen to music while you're driving and just have an amplifier "kill-switch", split your remote wire and hook it up to a switch, that way you can flip the subwoofers on and off without affecting the rest of your music to your heart's desire.

same thing i said sean... lol its hard callin you sean.. feeel like im talkin to myself (my name sean) but also op a cap is a waste of time two tens shouldnt be that powerful to where the batt dies/dim the lights... i had 3 12's w/1500 class d amp and never had a problem with the lights or batt die.. just throwing that out there

Originally Posted by GTPSHAWTY

same thing i said sean... lol its hard callin you sean.. feeel like im talkin to myself (my name sean) but also op a cap is a waste of time two tens shouldnt be that powerful to where the batt dies/dim the lights... i had 3 12's w/1500 class d amp and never had a problem with the lights or batt die.. just throwing that out there

I get slight headlight dimming, and pretty heavy interior light dimming, but I also have terrible stock wiring. I plan to do a big 3 myself pretty soon though. I have more subs but less power. 4 12"s on 1000w RMS d-class amp. :P

Also I used to be saw1833 on here, but I got tired of that. :P

Originally Posted by EJRJR91

Hey guys, so i plan on buying ...a capacitor.

That's a bad plan.

Originally Posted by EJRJR91

put in a switch so im not blasting the subs all the time

Turn the volume down. Your sound quality sucks without your subs on anyway.

Originally Posted by EJRJR91

so i can turn off the amp when the cars off so i dont drain the battery

The amp turns off when the radio turns off.
If you want to listen to music with the car off, and you don't want to set it up with a battery in the trunk so you can keep the amp on, then yeah, go for the switch. But seriously, how much do you sit in the car listening to music for more than an hour?

A cap is an additional point of failure, and additional "noise." They don't help with sound quality of amps, or with power spikes of any reasonable kind. Get your cash back while you can.