Thread: Looking for a decent sub

Originally Posted by bandits grand prix

if you didnt live so far away id sell you my 2 12" kicker comps and amp for cheap. but any way you gunna need a good headunit, a wiring kit, a capasitor(idk if i spelled that rite), and the amp and subs of coarse.

A Fail within a Fail

Originally Posted by bandits grand prix

if you didnt live so far away id sell you my 2 12" kicker comps and amp for cheap. but any way you gunna need a good headunit, a wiring kit, a capasitor(idk if i spelled that rite), and the amp and subs of coarse.

I haven't read this thread through yet but I'd like to address this issue now. YOU DO NOT NEED A CAPACITOR!!! EVER!!! A properly designed circuit already has the capacitance built in. Therefore, a good amplifier does not need an external capacitor...EVER!!!

How many capacitors do you see in home audio?...anywhere else in the electronics world?

Originally Posted by Fatboy501

Actually, the super-SQ crowd sometimes utilizes them to clean up the signal a bit. However, these aren't the run-of-the-mill units seen on a day to day basis.... they're expensive as hell!

In circuit design you can utilize capacitors to keep ripple down...blah blah blah. Again, if your power supply is designed and fabricated correctly within your amplifier then it's not needed.

Let me give you an idea on how big 1 farad actually is...



Granted, it's only 5.5V, but imagine putting 5 of them in series and placing them in parallel with another set of 5. That would mean they kick in somewhere around 13.75V and you'd have 10Farads ....too bad they're useless.

You can buy them here if interested...$3.75 a piece!

http://www.allspectrum.com/store/1-f...old-p-261.html


The reason "SQ" guys first utilized them in the 80's was because the voltage regulator (back then was independent of the alternator) had a hard time responding quickly enough to voltage dips associated with an amplifier's irregular pull. Therefore, they added capacitance to the light circuit in a vehicle because they did not want to lose valuable points in their competition. It had absolutely NOTHING to do with the sound quality. In SQ you get points for your environment/setting. It's gay. Show me an "SQ" car and I'll show you that it has nothing to do with the sound. Sound quality is the last thing they test and it's VERY brief. Typically, the assumption is that if it's an SQ car then it probably sounds damn good. So they look real quick to see if you have the basics and there isn't much past that. Believe it or not...SQ is very trendy and cliqu'ish.

The biggest reason they don't focus on "sound quality" so much is because every listener has their own predisposition. Nobody is proportionately the same. Different ears, head shapes, body shapes, etc. All of those things effect how YOU hear the sound. Good vs. bad is VERY subjective.

Ok... For what you're looking for I would get a good mid range speaker. A set of 4 should be around $250-300. No amp requ

As far as a sub goes... Get a good amp first. Subs come and go and if you underpower the sub, it will no doubt about it, blow.

a capacitor serves as a sort of reserve. Ever seen a car w/subs that when the bass hits the headlights dim? a cars electrical system is only set up to supply so many amps of current. A capacitor stores up energy so when that big bass note hits and your amp needs that xtra kick of current NOW it's there and doesn't pull current the car would otherwise use for its headlights, tail lights, ect.

And spade is right, if you are going to buy an amp focus on the RMS rating since that's the amount of power your speakers continually get from the amp.

Originally Posted by Explicit_Spade

Ok... For what you're looking for I would get a good mid range speaker. A set of 4 should be around $250-300. No amp requ

As far as a sub goes... Get a good amp first. Subs come and go and if you underpower the sub, it will no doubt about it, blow.

As far as a sub goes... Get a good amp first<this is good>. Subs come and go<shouldn't be blowing subs unless your doing it wrong> and if you OVERpower the sub Or clip the signal to hell, it will no doubt about it, blow.

Fixed that for you!

Just make sure that your amp RMS and Peak match your sub as close as possible and you should be good.

what about 2 $300 ones?

Thread has alot of FAIL in it....
1st off forget the Cap its a waste of money.
Seeing as you listen to rock/metal you would want a sealed box.
You WILL need/want a amp. When looking at amps you want to look at the Ohm load and the RMS power ratings.
Getting two subwoofers would be pointless for you unless they are the dirt cheap ones then your just spending more on a box and wasting trunk space.
IMO: i would get a 12 or a 10 inch sub if i was you seeing as both are common and boxes should be easy to come by(assuming your not building your own)
So I'll put a list of what you will need (assuming you have a head unit with RCA outputs with a Sub out)
- A power and ground wire (power from battery to the trunk and the ground you put in the trunk)
- RCAs from the HU to the Amp
- Speaker wire 16awg is fine.
- Class D subwoofer amp
- Subwoofer
- Box that meets the subwoofer(s) specs
- Time to install and enjoy

and a budget of 300 is do able

Although i don't like the amp at all its close to your budget and its a good sub
Amp install kit: Absolute KIT-4 Complete 4 Gauge Amplifier/Amp Installation Kit
Amp(theres ALOT better amps): Hitron HPA2000.1D (hpa20001d) 2000W Max, Pro Series Class D
Subwoofer: SSA Store - Sundown Audio SA-10 Subwoofer
Box: Sonic Sub Boxes 1H10-0.7-BLACK (1h1007-black) Single 10"

Just keep in mind that amps not the best....