Thread: Thoughts on an audio system

Originally Posted by I800C0LLECT

Orion eh? I'm not a huge fan of Directed Electronics :/

I'd suggest this instead...

Aurasound RPM Plus 10 Autosound Subwoofer: Madisound Speaker Store

dont understand can you plz explain
and 10s over 12s?..why?

DEI bought a/d/s, PPI, Orion, and pretty much any major name brand in car audio. They don't own them all today. I think Epsilon owns soundstream. Anyways, they diluted product lines and moved manufacturing away from the U.S. Long story short, product lines aren't what they used to be. FYI, Orion and PPI were owned by a/d/s/. A lot of their product line was a/d/s/ rebadged. The brains behind PPI amplifiers ended up at JL and that's why JL uses regulated power supplies today.

Speaker size. Displacement is king. But you don't account for JUST size of the cone but also cone movement. That's where linear response is important. Generally speaking, you can obtain very good results by utilizing LOTS of cheaper speakers and reducing cone movement which helps maintain a very good linear response.

Long story short...pay a lot of money for uber amazing build quality, or just substitute lots of cheaper subs and less cone movement.

Btw, I'd definitely take those 10's over the 12's. I like their Qts. There's lots of arguments on how to utilize that specification appropriately though.

ok thanks, never knew about the brands and what not, just what everyone has and brag's about,,

forgive me if i get this wrong, im tring to make sense of that foreign language above,
so for an ex your saying that a smaller dia speaker with alot of cone movement is better then a larger dia speaker with little cone movement..right?...or are does that just mean that there similar?...and this linear response thing, what is that?, just the movement of the speaker in and out

Essentially, yes that's correct

You also have to remember that when the cone moves it's objective is to vibrate according to the frequencies it's attempting to replicate. To what extent does vibrating accurately add or take away from the sound? Linear response may not be portrayed accurately if the cone is "out of control". Therefore, you want to keep the cone as uniform as possible. However, pushing a speaker design to its limits also pushes design tolerances to their limits. Specifically, it's easier for the speaker to maintain control of the cone and operate appropriately under less stress. Therefore, depending on the install requirements it COULD be BENEFICIAL to use more speakers which would essentially spread the same load across all of them and thus promoting "less stress"

Maybe this will help others out...

HowStuffWorks "How Speakers Work"

http://www.nutshellhifi.com/library/...r-design2.html

Oh ya...brands...who cares what you have or how much it costs!! I just spoke with my nephew today and apparently he applied some basic principles I've taught him about displacement. He challenged a buddy with a $1500 setup; matching 3 sony xplod 12's and a "600 watt" xplod amp in a truck. The goal was to ask everybody they knew opinions about which setup seemed best. I won't get into too many details but at the end of the day EVERYBODY said my nephew's setup was so much cleaner, louder, and basically blew the doors off this other guy. My nephew built his setup for about $150 total. His friend was pissed. You don't have to spend ungodly amounts to have something nice Audio is such a mad science :>

ok that makes since thanks,
i know whos helping me pick my new setup...lol
anyway whats your opinons on boxs, like wood thickness, porting and such, if you dont mind

Granted the motor is up for controlling the mass of the larger driver, its a better option if SPL is a concern in the build.

However basing driver selection purely on the speaker specs without seeing how it'd perform in the enclosures you'd like to use...

Well thats just a waste of valuable money in my opinion.

Before we start talking about which driver is this or that...consider your installation options. Where do you want it and how much space is available in that location?

ok. so i am looking at updating my system. fully stock right now. i have the hu pioneer deh-p6000ub. all i need is the connector harness, antenna adapter, and the steering wheel control. i dont care about the onstar, never activated it. my question is, has anyone installed an aftermarket stereo with out the interface module? and if so, how well does everything work without it.

Unless you have a module that will tap into the Remote Accessory Power system then you need to find an "always on" 12V source. If you use that "always on" source you have to install a switch to kill the power manually or else it's always feeding.

Utilizing the RAP module will also keep door chimes n' such. No way to keep the time/date feature on your DIC though.

Originally Posted by I800C0LLECT

Before we start talking about which driver is this or that...consider your installation options. Where do you want it and how much space is available in that location?

full trunk?
this is what i got now

old crapy pic, sorry
i would like to keep it something like this unless you can get the same effect with a small setup, but wouldnt that have to be custom made? like if you want it on the side in the corner

Here's the thread where I captured what I did...

Grand Prixs Of North America • View topic - Updating Car Audio -- a/d/s/, ZED Leviathan, DIYMA R12

Here's the current speaker...

DIYMA.com - Scientific Car Audio - Truth in Sound Quality - View Single Post - 2004 Grand Prix GTP -- Rookie Install

If I were you just go to Fi or DD or similar audio company and build a speaker box per their already established configurations. They typically offer a few build guides for ported and sealed.