I put a kicker 300 watt amp, with some quantum cozmic series 12's with tha stock radio, and they sound pretty good but they cut off, after a while of bumping the amp just turns off and like 30 seconds later tha bass just turns on.
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I put a kicker 300 watt amp, with some quantum cozmic series 12's with tha stock radio, and they sound pretty good but they cut off, after a while of bumping the amp just turns off and like 30 seconds later tha bass just turns on.
thermal protect
amp being run at too low a nominal impedance or their is insufficient airflow over your amp.
basicly what matt (oh techincal almighty lol) is saying is...you amp is too small. it will push (play) your subs, but after playing for a certain amount of time at certain levels, it goes into protection aka shuts off to stop from burning up. and there's nothing wrong with kicker. get what you like but make sure you have enough power to push them at the volume u want to play them. (i would suggest some audio brands, but its really to each its own) so either turn the amp down (turn the gain down) or get a bigger amp
my amp can put out 1500 watts RMS as per turbo trav..............
yet i can still get it to hit thermal protect after 40 minutes of beating on the sub with consistant bass tracks in the dead of summer and i'm probably only running 400-800 RMS.
Sub can handle a 1 kW too.
Basically it needs some sort of cooling.
But i have a better solution, sell it![]()
I don't know what you guys do...I haven't hit thermals yeterr...I take that back. My kenwood in highschool did in the heat of summer.
Kenwood KAC-848
People don't have thought out installs?
[QUOTE=I800C0LLECT;487644]in the heat of summer.
QUOTE]
that is why i think the amp is too small, its 300watts on two 12's (in the WINTER time), Ive had this happen many of times because i couldnt afford a bigger amp.
Um. Turn your gains down? The amp was designed to function within a certain performance envelope. Some how you're working it outside of that. I blame install and tuning. Howeer, if it's an older amp it could be something else....
the max on mine is 5500 W, does that make me the winner?
I don't care if that fact is true or not. It's the application of that type of power...it has no place. If it's cheap...good on you, nice find. It just doesn't seem like you're approaching this the right way. Your "300 watt" amp was probably setup incorrectly. That's why it's over heating.
Here: dB-SPL chart - Amplifier Power and Sensitivity
Apply the rule of thumb, double the power and increase 3db. Now what happens at 4000w? You've increased your sound by approximately 10.8 decibels at a listening distance of 1 meter.
But what about anything past 1 meter? You lose output. A sensitivity of 87 decibels is typical of car subwoofers these days. Assuming your speaker has the mechanical ability to use 4000 watts "rms"(that's a bull**** rating that doesn't make ANY sense. Only car audio uses RMS)....then you're talking ~120decibels of output at just 1 meter/3.28 feet. I wll say that this scratch paper information doesn't take into account cabin gain...But it also doesn't take into account the specs of the speaker either. So you'd probably damage the speaker before anything good happened.
So how do those guys hit 150+ decibels? How do they do it with 500 watts? Design. If all you're doing is throwing "watts" at your speaker for output you're going to destroy something. That's your problem with the current 300 watt amp. How did that one guy get 150+ decibels out of a 6.5" subwoofer? A very nice installation...6th order bandpass?...maybe. Anyways, I'm not mad at you. I just want you to think a little bit more about how you're going about this before you really screw something up. You'll end up confused and mad in the end with your current pathos.
One more...
http://www.sabre-international.com/a...echnology.html
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