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It disconnects the battery from the alt so it doesnt drain the alt as much.
http://www.ehow.com/how-does_5005295...tor-work_.html
It would power your devices for a short period of time, and not very well seeing as they wouldn't receive full voltage.
I'm not sure where this message got lost but if you plan on spending a zillion dollars on making a grand prix fast adding another 40 pound battery is not a good idea.
If you have money to burn on your car you have money to burn for gas.
Im not sure if the message i stated got lost either, its not just a drag car, its not going to be all about speed, power, or audio. The car will be a combination of speed, handleing, audio, and looks. I'm not building the car to race every weekend, its going to be my weekend driver as well as the car i take to shows, the car i compete in audio competitions every so often with, and if i get the chance ill take it around a race track.
Somone spends 50 grand on a chevelle and no one says anything, but the second you spend half that on a grand prix its a big deal..... -.-
Now what were you saying about less voltage? I'm starting to move back into the alternator idea. I think what will probably happen is ill run the wireing for it all without a battery and then if my lights dim ill decide from there. Mostly since no one has any straight answers and i wont be wiring it all for a month or so since its much to cold down here in missouri and my shop isnt heated...
Death...you vacillate too much for me.
Could you give us an honest goal with your audio?
H.O. Alternator...I still don't know why you need one. I've seen guys push more power with the stock alternator.
Extra Batter...why? All you've said is you don't want to be embarrassed. I've played my stereo balls out for 30 mins or so on a stock battery. You can't idle in any given circumstance?
Stinger Isolator...the more I try to understand the dumber it seems. A switch? For Real?
I'm going to be a jerk and tell you that I haven't seen any real application of knowledge as of yet. That's part of why you created the thread but I'm really starting to think you really just want a pat on the back. If you actually do the research based on the direction we've pointed you then all this snake oil wouldn't be eating away at $25k. You mid as well just pay somebody to do this for you. You don't even need that much power to "compete" in SPL or anything
For the whole vacillate statement. I'm not sure what i want to do here, thats the entire point of the post? When your told about 10 different opinions that contradict each other you waver a bit.
Could you give us an honest goal with your audio?
I want to compete in a few competitions but the biggest part of it is for me, just because i spend so much time in the car and I enjoy my music quite alot.
H.O. Alternator...I still don't know why you need one. I've seen guys push more power with the stock alternator.
Your one of the few who have said that but this winds up being your experience over the people who have told me different, i dont care whose right i just dont want to have to redo everything
Extra Batter...why?
for this one ill probably be going to some competitions with it, and my car always winds up being the audio car when I go tailgating or camping so the battery drains ide rather not have to jump it. Another plus side would be once its installed wiring amps if i ever had to again would be alot easier. Though since i dont "need" it ill probably hold off on it
Stinger Isolator...the more I try to understand the dumber it seems. A switch? For Real?
The point of the isolator would be to take stress off the alternator and the electrical system by not charging the second battery while the engine is starting, stories of a few friends of mine running the second battery without an isolator has caused their alt to fail quickly. Also my factory battery would always have power
It's basically become a mess. Theres just to many different opinions and statements. Some people tell me my stock alt can do it. Others say the stock alt would fail soon because of to much draw from the amps (that one i dont believe). Still others say a capacitor (which i think is bs), and my audio shop says i should run a second battery and at this point i think they probably just want to sell more stuff.
I'm obviously not the most experienced guy when it comes the numbers and amps in car audio, which like you mentioned is why im posting here. I just want a final answer cause i really dont want to have to redo anything when im done, though im sure ill have to.
A lot of my statements aren't just from my experience. Check out this guy named Casper on Gpona. He's on this site too, just not as much.
Grand Prixs Of North America • View topic - Casper129 Stereo Build Log, With Numbers...
He also has a vid on how to properly solder your 1/0. He's been to world finals in his class using a stock alternator. He uses an extra battery because in some competitions your car is off I believe. I'm not big into SPL.
I'm a big fan of reading. I went through the same dilemma as you starting out. Bottom line, opinions suck. Experience is everything. Start from the bottom and build up as you run into problems. In your case, your car has the ability to power a system as of right now. Car audio isn't done right the first time unless you've installed in that vehicle 234098234098 times before. Don't fall into that trap, I almost did and it made the selection process very pain staking.
Just keep communicating your goals to us and we can help you out. i.e. Instead of getting an extra battery why don't you install some hardware so you can plug your car into a wall? Then you could bring out a battery to plug your car into as needed instead of loading it down ALLL the time. SQ guys do things like that for when they're competing or in show rooms. Don't wanna run your vehicle inside a building
Quote:
Originally Posted by deathjunior
I'm not your typical person either ;) But every asshole has an opinion too right? Sometimes you just have to sort through the bull****. Kinda hard on the internet.
Maybe this will help too...
Secrets of Amplifier and Speaker Power - DIYMA.com
I'm not an audio wizard, but it seems like the common trend is that the stock alt is up to the task while the engine is running. The problem is how long can the battery hold out with out the engine running. And you don't want to put in a second battery when you don't need one or put in a h.o. alt when you don't need one.
so why don't we keep it simple. start with just one battery and the stock alt and see from there. And keep one of these
Amazon.com: Duracell Powerpack 450 Jumpstarter with Built-In 150 PSI Air Compressor: Automotive
in your car so you don't get stuck in the parking lot.
I800 that reminds me of ThorsHammers build with out the insane about of power and blowing woofers left and right
I figured it would be a good idea to have one of those in the car anyways. lol.
Alright another question ive got a new option on the speaker amps, i can do one of 3 things. I can pick up the two PA660's like i wanted for 105 bucks each plus tax (i was hoping to get them cheaper) and get 75 watts rms per channel which is good, i can pick up 2 PA330's for 48 bucks each plus tax, run them at 2 ohms and get 50 watts per channel, or i can get 4 of the PA 330's though i think the internals of the 660 is basically just two 330's. I know 4 330's or 2 660's would give the best sound editing results but is it worth it?
1. I love the price of the 2 PA330's since im building this on a budget and im trying to keep it in my price range. However im not sure how ide go about wiring up 4 speakers to a 2 channel if i do wind up going that route since ive only wired up subs or stock speaker wiring before this. From what i know it would be the power line to the first crossover, then a wire from the ground to the power on the next crossover, then a wire from that crossover tp the ground on the amp, then run the speaker and tweeter wires from the crossovers, correct? or is that wrong.... Then the amps apparently are CEA compliant and i know there is only a set amount of distortion allowed to be compliant amps at certain ohm settings, would running them at 2 ohms dramatically affect the sound?
2. Is it okay to run 2 sets of different speakers like a pair of 6x9's and a pair of 4's, or a pair of 6.5 components and a pair of 5.25 components, on a 2 channel amp? Both speakers have different wattage settings, i think it will be fine but i dont know it all obviously, and im afraid it might be like wiring two batteries in parallel, do it wrong and you fry the battery, or in my case on my track rc car you set the battery on fire.
3. These speakers are rated at much higher wattage than 50 watts, i know under-powering sub-woofers can cause their coils to be damaged from distortion, that part ive seen first hand, but im not sure how that will affect the speakers lifetime.