Cold Weather and Speakers

**I800C0LLECT** · 12-10-2010

So the glue was a bit cold, zero degrees? The dust cap apparently separated and then I beat the the crap out of cone

I guess I should have let the system warm up

**nawarkk** · 12-10-2010

Whoa.. that's intense haha

Kinda sucks though, I would cry.. like a man of course.

**Rkrajnov** · 12-10-2010

oh damn. i would never even think about something like that happening. The cold sucks. you don't always realize how careful you have to be with electronics in it. it broke my laptop battery a few weeks ago.

**I800C0LLECT** · 12-10-2010

I have a spare speaker

**matt5112** · 12-10-2010

DIYMA 12 FTL.

**Louie3** · 12-10-2010

I think you can hit different notes now

**I800C0LLECT** · 12-10-2010

Originally Posted by matt5112

DIYMA 12 FTL.

Don't be jealous

Cold weather is a b tho. (sigh).

**jakewet28** · 12-10-2010

Originally Posted by darrylsaladino

Speakers can become very brittle in extreme cold weather and are subject to cracking. It's best in cold weather to keep the volume down low until the car warms completely up and then remember your rear speakers are in the trunk and don't get much heat.

Speakers get plenty of heat if they point right at you through the opening in the seats LOL

**kjohnson** · 12-10-2010

mine point at me thru the seats 2 helps em alot i'd assume. just think maybe you can hit the brown note now

**matt5112** · 12-10-2010

Originally Posted by I800C0LLECT

Don't be jealous

Cold weather is a b tho. (sigh).

treated paper IS the way to go in car audio.

Dustcap shouldnt cause that damage though.

Former to cone connection must have let go.

**IffyG** · 12-10-2010

I bet that sounded pretty cool when it was tearing itself to shreads...

**matt5112** · 12-10-2010

Originally Posted by IffyG

I bet that sounded pretty cool when it was tearing itself to shreads...

Trust me... it doesnt.

**IffyG** · 12-10-2010

I feel your pain. Somehow I managed to blow out my 6x9s a few weeks ago after tinkering with my amplifier (granted they were 10 years old and have been through 3 cars), I was still sad to see them quit on me.

**matt5112** · 12-10-2010

my 6x9's are 1.5 years old, and they're quitting. Paid money for them and they're failing, not happy.

Its probably from the 18 just below them pounding on them though.

**jakewet28** · 12-10-2010

Originally Posted by kjohnson

mine point at me thru the seats 2 helps em alot i'd assume. just think maybe you can hit the brown note now

Can you say brown noise? Lol

**matt5112** · 12-10-2010

I tried that, didn't like it as much as facing directly rearwards and within 2" from the rear of the trunk.

**IffyG** · 12-10-2010

I've tried that as well. It seems to dampen the bass too much for my liking.

**deathjunior** · 12-10-2010

From my experience with subs in different cars you will almost always reach a greater Db level with the sub woofer facing reward. This is because the trunk creates a form of bass reflex allowing the waves to unfold for a longer amount of time. Aiming speakers through the pass through door wont increase your bass, if anything it should diminish it. However you will likely get more notes by aiming it that way.

Keep in mind these are facts with ported boxes since when i had my tiny sealed enclosures i only used them with a 300 watt peak amp and never messed with them since they didn't matter on that car. As for the current setup that i have which is a single ported 10 inch RE SRx with about 460 rms. Its about 2 db's louder facing rearwards than through the pass through door. But i get a lot more high notes and lower lows and a whole lot of wind if i put it where i designed it to which is between the two seats aiming through the door.

**matt5112** · 12-10-2010

i dont do ported in cars... cabin gain is gross enough as is.

**Gorecki** · 12-10-2010

May be pointing out the obvious but car audio is always a clusterf*** when it comes to low end because to really produce low freq bass without phase cancellation it has to travel 20'-30' to complete a cycle so infinitely you're only going to piss of the guy two cars away trying to get anything really below 80hz.

As blowing up drivers, the same thing can happen with high heat. Cones, voice coils...etc are held by adhesives that will soften or even melt and putting power through will shread'em.

I always had my best luck with polypropylene drivers because the adhesive holding it all together was basically the same so on a molecular level they worked with each other better.