Thread: Full sound system upgrade, amplifier help

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  1. #1 Full sound system upgrade, amplifier help 
    SE Level Member deathjunior's Avatar
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    Okay, im redoing the entire sound system in my 01 GT, heres all the parts
    Kenwood Excelon KDC-X994 Stereo, already installed
    Polk audio DXi 4 inch coaxials and 6x9 inch 3 way coaxials in the rear deck
    Polk db 5.25 inch components in the doors and polk DXi 6.5 inch components in a set of Q-logics kick panels
    2 RE audio SEx10 D4 Subs
    Subs will have a custom enclosure built by a trusted audio shop with a world championship in DBdrags
    2 Polk 600 watt 4 channel amps for speakers
    1 MTX jackhammer jh1200 amp for subs
    1 Optima Red top battery
    1/0 gauge from one battery to second battery
    4 gauge to the amps
    12 gauge to the speakers and amplifiers
    Big three upgrade with 6 gauge, and a pile of hushmat, im getting 58 sq feet for 180 bucks
    The car has the factory bose speaker and amp option

    1. I should be sitting at around 1800 watts rms total, but i dont think the grand prix can handle that, should i use a capacitor, a second battery like i have planned or a bigger alternator? This is the most important thing i need to know

    2. When i run the new speakers and subs from the pre outs on the back of the headunit what do i do with the stock speaker wires and the stock wiring harness?

    3. Where should i mount the crossover blocks for the components, im debating under the seats, cause i really dont want to put them in the doors

    4. Is there anything else i should know before i do this, bad wiring, rap, ground points, etc....

    Thanks for any help you can give me, ive already got the speakers and im buying the rest in the next few months, so any help is appreciated
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  2. #2 Re: Full sound system upgrade, amplifier help 
    SE Level Member iceman977th's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deathjunior View Post
    1. I should be sitting at around 1800 watts rms total, but i dont think the grand prix can handle that, should i use a capacitor, a second battery like i have planned or a bigger alternator? This is the most important thing i need to know

    Definitely a second battery, caps are almost useless 99.9% of the time. Second battery in back, big three, 1/0 wire, but on 1800w you should be good alt-wise.

    2. When i run the new speakers and subs from the pre outs on the back of the headunit what do i do with the stock speaker wires and the stock wiring harness?

    Tape them off. Just make sure they aren't contacting each other. Unless your h/u has an option to shut them off.

    3. Where should i mount the crossover blocks for the components, im debating under the seats, cause i really dont want to put them in the doors

    Under seats = more wire to run. If you're going to have your interior out to do the wire, or any sound deadening, then shouldn't be a problem. You should be able to hide them away in the door panels though.

    4. Is there anything else i should know before i do this, bad wiring, rap, ground points, etc....

    Don't touch the power wire with your tongue. Seriously. It hurts. Lol

    In all seriousness, use the least amount of wire possible. Make sure power and signal/speaker wires are ran separately, to reduce interference. Make sure you sand the paint away in the point you're going to ground to for best connection.

    Oh, and sell me your system. That always makes everything better. ^_^ Sike.

    Thanks for any help you can give me, ive already got the speakers and im buying the rest in the next few months, so any help is appreciated

    You are very welcome, even if I'm of no help at all.
    giggity.

    2001 Grand Prix GT Sedan Silver :: Sony CD-GT54UIW :: Clarion EQS746
    2x Audioque SDC2.5 12" D4 + Audiopipe AP1500.1D :: 4 cu ft @ 32Hz, 1500w @ 1ohm
    Crescendo CCX65 Doors :: Pioneer 6x9 Rear :: Cadence CRS-Z9 4ch
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  3. #3 Re: Full sound system upgrade, amplifier help 
    SE Level Member deathjunior's Avatar
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    1.should i remove the old wireing?
    im definetly gonna remove the stupid old bose amp since all it does is take up space, if i did remove the old wiring how would i go about doing it without destorying anything.
    and im deffinetly gonna need more clearance for the sub box and the two amp racks
    2.also do you think i could swap out the stock grand prix bose speaker grills in the doors to the new polk audio grills, i work at a best buy so im sure i could pick up a set of grills that somone doesnt want from the 5 inch coaxials and make some sort of mesh to go in the middle, i just dont know how well they will install. I havent done any speaker work on this car yet, just stereo, subs, bass knob, and amp. Currently all it has is an RE SRx10D4 the kenwood head unit and a BOSS Diablo 600.2 amp . So im not sure about swapping the grills,
    3. and ide sell u my system but its already gonna cost me an absolute pile of cash (somwhere around 2 grand) and ive still gotta save up the other 23 grand for the engine build, suspension,brakes,body work, and enterior
    4.by the way that amp is BS don't buy it for the love of god, its cheap for power but i know its maby pushing in the 300 watt rms area and thats with 1 channel per voice coil which supposedly makes 230 rms per channel. It is sorely overrated if i hadn't gotten it for a ridiculously low price i'd be pissed off, an audio shop in town described my current sub/amp combo as a Cadillac powered by a go kart engine. But somhow it still made enough power to crack my rear view mirror
    Last edited by deathjunior; 12-03-2010 at 07:51 PM.
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  4. #4 Re: Full sound system upgrade, amplifier help 
    SE Level Member iceman977th's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deathjunior View Post
    1.should i remove the old wireing?
    im definetly gonna remove the stupid old bose amp since all it does is take up space, if i did remove the old wiring how would i go about doing it without destorying anything.
    and im deffinetly gonna need more clearance for the sub box and the two amp racks

    That's your choice. I left my door wires for now until I can get a good run to them. Someone with a Bose stereo in their car may be able to enlighten you more.

    2.also do you think i could swap out the stock grand prix bose speaker grills in the doors to the new polk audio grills, i work at a best buy so im sure i could pick up a set of grills that somone doesnt want from the 5 inch coaxials and make some sort of mesh to go in the middle, i just dont know how well they will install. I havent done any speaker work on this car yet, just stereo, subs, bass knob, and amp. Currently all it has is an RE SRx10D4 the kenwood head unit and a BOSS Diablo 600.2 amp . So im not sure about swapping the grills,

    All in your personal preference. If you think the new grilles look better, then go ahead. That's all your choice.

    3. and ide sell u my system but its already gonna cost me an absolute pile of cash (somwhere around 2 grand) and ive still gotta save up the other 23 grand for the engine build, suspension,brakes,body work, and enterior

    Haha, I'm good, mine will do me fine for now.

    4.by the way that amp is BS don't buy it for the love of god, its cheap for power but i know its maby pushing in the 300 watt rms area and thats with 1 channel per voice coil which supposedly makes 230 rms per channel. It is sorely overrated if i hadn't gotten it for a ridiculously low price i'd be pissed off, an audio shop in town described my current sub/amp combo as a Cadillac powered by a go kart engine. But somhow it still made enough power to crack my rear view mirror

    Which amp? If you're talking about the AP amplifier, then you're seriously wrong. Remember, this is the AP1500.1D, the class D monoblock. It does put out rated. Several people on a couple different forums have posted clamped ratings and they do, if not more, damn near rated at 1 ohm.
    giggity giggity goo

    2001 Grand Prix GT Sedan Silver :: Sony CD-GT54UIW :: Clarion EQS746
    2x Audioque SDC2.5 12" D4 + Audiopipe AP1500.1D :: 4 cu ft @ 32Hz, 1500w @ 1ohm
    Crescendo CCX65 Doors :: Pioneer 6x9 Rear :: Cadence CRS-Z9 4ch
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  5. #5 Re: Full sound system upgrade, amplifier help 
    SE Level Member deathjunior's Avatar
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    na i meant the boss 600.2 its a piece of crap amplifier
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  6. #6 Re: Full sound system upgrade, amplifier help 
    ROLLS ARE FOR BAKERS... whiney's Avatar
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    with this vid i'm running about 2000 watts ish. So expect some decent drop in voltage, that is with 2 battery's and 1/0 to them with the big 3 in 2 gauge. The alternator is pretty much done after 2 weeks of beating on it like that.
    YouTube - Time for an alternator...
    2000 2dr. black GTP|Headers|3.1"|xp'ed|ported s/c|HPT & aem wb|3.29's built trans|19° timing|0°KR
    Turbo/heads /big cam build starts soon!!!
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  7. #7 Re: Full sound system upgrade, amplifier help 
    SE Level Member iceman977th's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deathjunior View Post
    na i meant the boss 600.2 its a piece of crap amplifier
    Ah, I was about to say lol. My friend had one with two Boss 12's in his car and it didn't sound great. He's changed to Memphis though, so it does sound better...not the best, but better. Boss is down there along the lines of Sony and entry level Pioneer.

    Quote Originally Posted by whiney View Post
    with this vid i'm running about 2000 watts ish. So expect some decent drop in voltage, that is with 2 battery's and 1/0 to them with the big 3 in 2 gauge. The alternator is pretty much done after 2 weeks of beating on it like that.
    YouTube - Time for an alternator...
    Maybe your alternator was due for a while? Plus, doing big 3 in 2ga with batteries running 1/0 may not be the best idea.

    2001 Grand Prix GT Sedan Silver :: Sony CD-GT54UIW :: Clarion EQS746
    2x Audioque SDC2.5 12" D4 + Audiopipe AP1500.1D :: 4 cu ft @ 32Hz, 1500w @ 1ohm
    Crescendo CCX65 Doors :: Pioneer 6x9 Rear :: Cadence CRS-Z9 4ch
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  8. #8 Re: Full sound system upgrade, amplifier help 
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    Hold up...

    second batt is 100% waste of money here....

    buy a HO alternator.

    You already did the wiring upgrades for one...
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  9. #9 Re: Full sound system upgrade, amplifier help 
    Audio Moderator I800C0LLECT's Avatar
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    Extra batts don't help unless you're running with the vehicle off. Caps are useless.
    11 is louder than 10!
    Audio Build Logs: DIYMA and GPONA
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  10. #10 Re: Full sound system upgrade, amplifier help 
    SE Level Member deathjunior's Avatar
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    1.So how am i gonna go about wiring the amps to the stereo, yea I know its the typical power,ground,control, and rca. But should i bother at all with the wiring harness? all it will do is put out useless power to the empty wires where the old speakers used to be

    2. I need know how I'd go about building a trunk lid cover for the inside of the trunk lid? You know like those ones you see on the high end builds.

    3. Does anyone have any experience with those internal LED light kits on their grand prix? I'm gonna order one, but I'm not sure where to place the lights.

    4. Also, im going to dynamat the doors on my car as well as the trunk lid, i found a page of how someone used foam over their dynamat. Heres the link website.

    JBL GTI and DLS Ultimate Grand Prix Install - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com

    What kind of foam is that, and where can i get some?

    5. Any tips especially on wiring or anything for that matter that would be great, this car when its finished will be a combination track car/sound off/show car when it is done so im open to any suggestions on anything. Ive got a massive list of parts and its going to take me years to do so it would be helpful for any tips whatsoever


    For the alternator idea, firstly im not going to be running more than 1800 watts rms, not two kw, next the audio shop who is building my box who has a world championship told me personally that all i would need is a battery since the owner has 3400 watts rms and hes had much experience, id trust that unless you can show me otherwise, and id appreciate if you did. I dont care who is right i just care if its right. Next those talking about peak power this is somthing i know and that is that a peak power is rarely even possible because the peak power exceeds the amount of power that can flow through the fuse on most amps. Next the polk amps are probably overated a bit.

    Please guys dont turn this into a giant bashing session between batteries and alternators ive seen much to many forums where that has happened

    Thanks
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  11. #11 Re: Full sound system upgrade, amplifier help 
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    1) I'd suggest a harness for the deck that way you're not hacking your vehicles wiring harness. The rest of the wiring is straight forward.

    2) There are two people who build them here for cash. Its just a carpeted sheet of MDF bolted to the trunk lid.

    3) I ordered a diode dynamics kit, flicked when installed one way, didn't turn on at all with the opposite polarity.

    4) See this: Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information

    5) There is no real secret to tucking wires, its just time consuming.

    Stock alt can produce 105 A or so at 14.4 V which is 1512 W.

    Now if your amp is class D, running at maximum efficiency thats around 85% efficient... which means 85% of the power coming in will be output to the speaker.

    So figure your car has DIS and thus needs 20-30 A to run.

    That leaves you with 75-85 A which at 14.4 V is 1080 W -1224 W.

    at 85% efficiency you're looking at 918 W - 1040 W to the driver/speaker.

    So what happened to 1800 W RMS? I know what happened....
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  12. #12 Re: Full sound system upgrade, amplifier help 
    GT Level Member chamilton89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deathjunior View Post
    1.So how am i gonna go about wiring the amps to the stereo, yea I know its the typical power,ground,control, and rca. But should i bother at all with the wiring harness? all it will do is put out useless power to the empty wires where the old speakers used to be

    I would recommend getting a harness for your head, that way you don't ruin your factory wiring. When you get to wiring your head units harness to the aftermarket male car harness, just don't connect the 8 wires for the four factory speakers, just be sure to electrical tape the ends!

    2. I need know how I'd go about building a trunk lid cover for the inside of the trunk lid? You know like those ones you see on the high end builds.

    Two different users make those! Both do amazing work.
    jarheadbobandmax and BlownBigBlock



    3. Does anyone have any experience with those internal LED light kits on their grand prix? I'm gonna order one, but I'm not sure where to place the lights.

    They are easy to wire up. If your kit includes 4 tube lights like im sure it does, I put on each in the driver and passenger footwell where you couldn't see it and underneath the driver and passenger seat. I love it and it keeps the light all focused down on your feet so no distractions while driving.

    4. Also, im going to dynamat the doors on my car as well as the trunk lid, i found a page of how someone used foam over their dynamat. Heres the link website.

    JBL GTI and DLS Ultimate Grand Prix Install - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com

    What kind of foam is that, and where can i get some?

    Hmm, no idea haha

    5. Any tips especially on wiring or anything for that matter that would be great, this car when its finished will be a combination track car/sound off/show car when it is done so im open to any suggestions on anything. Ive got a massive list of parts and its going to take me years to do so it would be helpful for any tips whatsoever

    Make sure you take your time. When I first started doing builds I wanted it to look good but I got frustrated easy and took the easy way out. Believe me, it is worth the extra time! Also, I think the easiest place to lay wire runs is underneath the doors, under those plastic covers. Lay your power and ground on the one side, and do your RCA runs on the other, it is clean, quick, and keeps them apart! Also there is a great place to run your power through the firewall underneath the passenger carpet in the footwell. If you need more detail than that let me know.


    For the alternator idea, firstly im not going to be running more than 1800 watts rms, not two kw, next the audio shop who is building my box who has a world championship told me personally that all i would need is a battery since the owner has 3400 watts rms and hes had much experience, id trust that unless you can show me otherwise, and id appreciate if you did. I dont care who is right i just care if its right. Next those talking about peak power this is somthing i know and that is that a peak power is rarely even possible because the peak power exceeds the amount of power that can flow through the fuse on most amps. Next the polk amps are probably overated a bit.

    I apologize for that, I never met to turn your thread into a bashing session, I just wanted you to understand what you were dealing with. This is a true story of an install in my friends boat. He wanted a ton of power, 1000w sub, and he already had a 500w 4-channel for his tour speakers and a 400w 4-channel for the interior speakers. So I told him the same thing I told you and that other guy I was arguing with. I was able to talk him down on the subwoofer and he went with 600w I think, which I still told him was way to much power for the little baby 65w alternator on his Malibu wakesetter. Anyway, I installed it for him, it looks and sounds wonderful but the first day we took it out, we killed both of his deep cycle batteries sitting in the dock. Okay no big deal, started the boat, ran it around the lake with the stereo off for about an hour till we were seeing 13.8v on his dash digital meter. So we got to rocking again with the boat running at about 3500 rpms across the lake. We watched the volts drop to 12.2 before we turned it down and let it climb back up. He was amazed at the voltage drop just over a few minutes and his alternator went out 2 weeks later. He upgraded to an H/O alternator and we are able to keep it above 13, but it still struggles.
    All I am saying is that I look at the math, I had this happen to my friends boat and I know the system cant produce the power your asking it to in your car. Im an engineer, I stand behind my math, I have too haha. That being said, you may be able to get away with it for awhile, but still, I wouldn't do it in my grand prix. Hope this helps.


    Please guys dont turn this into a giant bashing session between batteries and alternators ive seen much to many forums where that has happened

    I am sorry. Like I said, I wont bash any more, I only wish to help!

    Thanks
    Thank You.
    Last edited by matt5112; 12-04-2010 at 10:36 PM. Reason: coloured responses so its easier to read
    Infinity all around.
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  13. #13 Re: Full sound system upgrade, amplifier help 
    SE Level Member deathjunior's Avatar
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    Thanks for the help

    1. Yes extra description would be great since I'm not sure if ill be able to fit 1/0 gauge wire under the plastic trim in the door sills.

    2. I already have some 6 gauge wired into the car, but thats weak wire and i know it. I was busy the week i wanted to install it and since we get a pretty good discount on installs i figured id just let best buy do it since i didn't have the time. I had already bought the wiring kit original sub (an RE RExD4) upgraded to an RE SRxD4 and amp about 2 months prior. So i just let them use the kit i bought. Because thier the ones who wired it though im not sure if they did it the way your describing. So a better description would be great

    3. As for the current box i built it myself, its a ported enclosure tuned to 35 hz that fires through the pass through door. I think it looks awesome plus i get a lot more notes with it facing forward and theres a really nice breeze on bass notes. However you get higher db's facing reverse which is why the next box will be dual SExD4's in a double enclosure with one sub and port facing into the cabin and a second in the back facing the trunk, ill scan the designs in later if you guys want to see it

    4. I really dont like the idea of leaving the crossover blocks inside the doors since im afraid water might leak in a damage them. Especially since i know my trunk leaks through the spoiler bolts (im working on fixing this). So any other location ideas?

    5. The wireing kit im using only gives me enough ground wire to ground the amps to the trunk. So should i just use the same place that best buy used in the trunk or is thier a specific place thats good
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  14. #14 Re: Full sound system upgrade, amplifier help 
    GT Level Member chamilton89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deathjunior View Post
    Thanks for the help

    1. Yes extra description would be great since I'm not sure if ill be able to fit 1/0 gauge wire under the plastic trim in the door sills.

    Oh I really met a description of where the hole to run your wire is. Anyhow, I dont think you should have a problem running even a 1/0 gauge wire under the plastic door panels, there is a lot of room, but im not positive, I ran 4 gauge under there.


    2. I already have some 6 gauge wired into the car, but thats weak wire and i know it. I was busy the week i wanted to install it and since we get a pretty good discount on installs i figured id just let best buy do it since i didn't have the time. I had already bought the wiring kit original sub (an RE RExD4) upgraded to an RE SRxD4 and amp about 2 months prior. So i just let them use the kit i bought. Because thier the ones who wired it though im not sure if they did it the way your describing. So a better description would be great

    Yeah, most of us run our wire through a grommet located in the passenger side footwell. All you need to do is pull the plastic trim from the passenger side foot well and peal back the carpet a bit until you see an oval grommet with like a spongy insert. Pull out the insert and run your wire through that. Try and put the insert back in but if it doesn't fit, no worries. Shouldn't be an issue. The hole is going to be hard to find from the outside of the firewall in the engine compartment. I did the good'ol coat hanger trick. Just ran the coat hanger through the inside and found the other end under the car and ran my wire through that way.

    3. As for the current box i built it myself, its a ported enclosure tuned to 35 hz that fires through the pass through door. I think it looks awesome plus i get a lot more notes with it facing forward and theres a really nice breeze on bass notes. However you get higher db's facing reverse which is why the next box will be dual SExD4's in a double enclosure with one sub and port facing into the cabin and a second in the back facing the trunk, ill scan the designs in later if you guys want to see it

    I want to see, ive built quite a few boxs but never with a woofer pointed back and one front!

    4. I really dont like the idea of leaving the crossover blocks inside the doors since im afraid water might leak in a damage them. Especially since i know my trunk leaks through the spoiler bolts (im working on fixing this). So any other location ideas?

    I understand your not comfortable with leaving the crossovers in the doors. From experience I have had two separate sets of crossovers in my doors and never had an issue, but thats me. You can locate them under the seats if you like, just going to be a ton of extra wiring on your part.

    5. The wireing kit im using only gives me enough ground wire to ground the amps to the trunk. So should i just use the same place that best buy used in the trunk or is thier a specific place thats good

    Well where did best buy ground your current setup? Your ground run should be as short as possible for less interference. I grounded my 20 farad cap to one of the two inside bolts of the rear seat. You should see 4 of them if you pull up your rear seat, pick one of the two inside ones. Make sure you sand the paint off where the bolt is welded to the car!
    See above
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  15. #15 Re: Full sound system upgrade, amplifier help 
    Audio Moderator I800C0LLECT's Avatar
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    What kind of foam is that, and where can i get some?
    It's called ensolite. Any closed cell foam that creates a separation from the door panel and card helps to reduce vibration transfer. I think polyethylene? or something rather(camping mats) work pretty well too.

    Closed Cell Foam, Padding, Minicel, Polystyrene Foam, Styrofoam Sheet
    11 is louder than 10!
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  16. #16 Re: Full sound system upgrade, amplifier help 
    Audio Moderator I800C0LLECT's Avatar
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    For the alternator idea, firstly im not going to be running more than 1800 watts rms, not two kw, next the audio shop who is building my box who has a world championship told me personally that all i would need is a battery since the owner has 3400 watts rms and hes had much experience, id trust that unless you can show me otherwise, and id appreciate if you did.
    Unless your big on bass notes and SPL no need for crazy power upgrades etc. Most of those upgrades are to maintain voltage, not because there's a power supply bottleneck. I run everything stock and had about 2kw using 4awg from the battery and a/b power supplies in the amps. Never had dimming issues or anything. Voltage stays around 14.0 to 13.8 in the rear. Hope that helps.

    Dimming is usually indicative of poor grounding. Music is so dynamic and most people "rock out" at around 110decibels. You won't be pulling much at those levels.
    Last edited by I800C0LLECT; 12-06-2010 at 10:43 AM.
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  17. #17 Re: Full sound system upgrade, amplifier help 
    Audio Moderator I800C0LLECT's Avatar
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    I grounded my 20 farad cap to one of the two inside bolts of the rear seat.
    Be careful of doing this. Apparently some vehicles have some type of zinc in their plating on these bolts that can provide noise/feedback. If it turns out you utilize these bolts and feedback is an issue, try a new grounding location and see if it will resolve the problem.
    11 is louder than 10!
    Audio Build Logs: DIYMA and GPONA
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  18. #18 Re: Full sound system upgrade, amplifier help 
    SE Level Member deathjunior's Avatar
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    1. Ill post some scans of the box design next weekend since that will be the soonest I can go home. I'm at college studying to become an engineer, so I'm only home most weekends and all i have here is a printer. The design is basically two boxes merged into one. Obviously I'm going to have my audio shop fine tune everything before they build it. I'm hoping to hit in the 135-140 db area. And if you want ill send you the parts list and description of the whole car. Its a about 6 pages

    2. As for the wiring i think ill be cutting it close, as it is my trim barely fits around the current 6 ga wires. But I'm only running the one main power wire to the back. What i do from there was the big question. And at this point i think i'm going to add a deep cycle optima battery and put it in the trunk then run a new fuse block and distribution block from that into three 4 gauge wires. Then ill wire those to each separate amplifier though the little pa 660's don't really need 4 gauge i figure I'm already buying some so i might as well unless you think the scosche 6 gauge will be just as good.

    3. For grounding each amp theres 3 ways i can do it. I can ground each amp individially to the battery since I'm going to have to ground the battery to the car anyway with the 1/0 gauge kit. I can use a second distribution block and 1/0 guage ground to the battery. Or i can ground them to the car directly. Is there a better method or one you prefer?

    4. For the guy who knows what kind of foam that other link uses on the doors if theres anyway you can get me a link to that thad be awesome cause i like the fit and finish that door has. You can't tell its coated in dynamat and it looks factory.

    5. Since im going to have 4 crossover's total 2 for each side of the front of the car i think the best way might have to be under the seat otherwise i wouldn't know where else to place the crossovers for the kick pod speakers. Yet again though any other ideas would be great on where to put it
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  19. #19 Re: Full sound system upgrade, amplifier help 
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    use winisd or unibox.

    free box simulations.
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  20. #20 Re: Full sound system upgrade, amplifier help 
    SE Level Member deathjunior's Avatar
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    ohh and chamilton
    how did you build those amplifier racks in the back, im gonna need a place to mount my two Polk amps and those look really good. Any chance you could send me specs on them?

    I wont need one for the JH1200 since ill be hiding it but i want to show off all the polk audio and RE audio stuff. Even if polk isnt top of the line i still like how they look in the car.

    And have you tried to swap the door speaker grills on your car before? Cause im at a loss of how i would mount the new grills and if they aren't to big or to small for the slots, I know that the grills will be 5.25 inch in diameter because thats how they actually measure the speakers. But im not sure about the cars grills or how thier mounted cause like i said ive never removed the door panels on this car. And its alot different than my silverado or my buick regal were.
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