Thread: Recommendations for Dynamat alternatives?

Sub rear firing? I find less rattle and more bass that way.. Edead, rammaat, few others I have heard of are alternatives.. No experiences with them though. I put some dynamat in the trunk, it did a little but really its nothing much.

First and foremost...

Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information

The rule is that 25% coverage of the center panel moves 90% of the resonance to a lower frequency. If you read that link, it'll help you understand the purpose of dampening. It will NOT get rid of your rattles by itself.

Next, BETTER and cheaper alternatives.

Sound Deadening Materials for Noise Reduction from Second Skin
That will be your BEST price performance "deadener"

Besides that... locally I picked up Hushmat(.55 mils vs .6 mils from SSA) for $220 including taxes for 38 sq. feet.

People... You are NOT trying to wet your trunk down, or are you? It's called damping, not dampening. To dampen is to make it moist. You are trying to quiet the rattles.

Dampen | Define Dampen at Dictionary.com

[dam-puhn] Show IPA

–verb (used with object)

1.to make damp; moisten: to dampen a sponge.

2. to dull or deaden; depress: to dampen one's spirits.

3.damp ( def. 10 ) .

Damp | Define Damp at Dictionary.com

[damp] Show IPA

adjective, -er, -est, noun, verb

–adjective

1. slightly wet; moist: damp weather; a damp towel.

2. unenthusiastic; dejected; depressed: The welcoming committee gave them a rather damp reception.

email him...he put together a pretty good quote for me

goto lowes... roofing section.. seal and peal

Seal and Peel eh? Good luck with the smell and I hope it lasts longer than 6 months. The bigger issue isn't cost it's quality. First, weight is your best friend when dampening. Second, you MUST achieve that in the first layer because adding over top the first significantly detracts from the qualities that provide the dampening. The return on that idea is almost voided.

Next, dampening and sound deadening are two distinct issues. You can have one without the other however you don't achieve both in a single product. Honestly, even duct seal works depending on the application and goals. But don't confuse products with applications and goals. They all have their purpose. If you live in a somewhat mild climate then peel and seal could work well.

Always another way to skin the cat

I was looking at Peel N Seal and noticed that the possibility of a smell was really the only downside. And seeing as it's got that shiny metallic covering all over it except on the edges, wouldn't simply sealing the edges contain any possible smell? I'm not sure why no one on the sites I've looked over mentioned it as it seems like it would work perfectly fine...

And for clarification, I'm looking for deadening the rattle in my trunk, not dampening the music (which I may have said by accident). I actually found these (as weird as they look): http://www.lowes.com/pd_310823-82801-A50-50_0__?productId=3080009&Ntt=peel&pl=1&currentURL= %2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dpeel

Since the goal of deadening is to add mass to the resonating piece of metal or whatever is vibrating, could these work if I found a good way to keep them stuck to the top of my trunk? It seems like it'd be the same thing as getting the CLD tiles (no butyl, but it's the weight that counts), just possibly much cheaper and maybe a bit harder to adhere.

I hate to be that guy Nik...but you're fighting a losing battle if you're hoping you can absorb the transfer of energy BEFORE it makes your spoiler rattle. I think you'd want to try the rubber washers or whatever the guys have been doing in the forum. Mix that with Matt's idea and that could help. Also, tighten the the bolts for the spoiler as well as making sure the locking device is adjusted.

If you are going to be cost efficient...I still say use RAAMMAT or something rather. I've heard too many horror stories concerning Peel n seal melting in the summer sun and leaving a nasty residue that's a b. get out. You want high quality butyl...not asphalt based something rather.

From sounddeadenershowdown.com concerning Peel n seal/sound deadener/CLD tiles

CLD Tile is just a slightly catchy name for 6” X 10” pieces of constrained layer damper – what we’ve traditionally called sound deadener. If you’ve been doing any research, you have probably come across the usual arguments: “Buy the good stuff and cover everything” or “Buy the cheap stuff and cover everything with multiple layers.

The usual arguments miss the point. Products like this are vibration dampers. Their only purpose is to control resonance in a vehicle’s panels. Controlling resonance is the absolutely critical first step in any sound deadening project, but more isn’t better and trying to use a CLD to block sound is too expensive, too labor intensive and makes it unnecessarily difficult to do future vehicle maintenance. The old adage about using the right tool for the job has never been truer.

I'm still a noob too I'd just hate to that none of your efforts help reconcile the issues. You can ask me questions any time you want. Typically, when people are looking for knowledge I try to point them towards the source. I'm wrong too and I don't wanna confuse anybody who really is looking for help

Its a pain in the @$$ to get these cars to shut up lol. Like the sig says I got 2 l7's and everything rattles. Even the plastic in my dash. Id say go with hush mat never herd anything bad about it and everyone says its just as good as dynomat. Washers for the spoiler but what u got to watch out for is your trunk up by the rear window it can rattle a hole lot up there too. Mine dose and I have not found a cure for it yet maby if I put a new stiffer trunk seal in but oh well. If you have enuf bass you will never stop everything from rattleing unless you eliminate it.