The Big 3, Everything You Wanted to Know + DIY

**imdaman3** · 04-10-2010

Originally Posted by matt5112

I have all the things you've mentioned and no big three yet my electrical system is doing just fine, in fact, I monitor it via a voltmeter gauge I have installed in my car.

Just because you havn't had a short doesnt mean you don't have a flaw in your electrical system.

Go look at your fuse box in your house, theres a main breaker for the entire panel. The same thing applies in your car. You have one massive fuse called a fusible link. Google it, you'll find many articles on it. Its not necessary, but neither is any fuse for that matter but its recommended for safety reasons.

Just because it works without it doesnt mean you shouldn't have it.

^^i agree

**whiney** · 04-10-2010

Originally Posted by matt5112

I give up on this thread, you guys are probably NEVER going to understand this no matter how many times I explain it.

Aah don't worry about them, you along with a few others are the audio guys around here. I know you are right, let them learn the hard way...

**matt5112** · 04-10-2010

Originally Posted by imdaman3

^^i agree

WOOT!

Originally Posted by whiney

Aah don't worry about them, you along with a few others are the audio guys around here. I know you are right, let them learn the hard way...

You can't be negative because someone else invested their time and money into it but you can't be constructive since that'd be contrary to what the OP spent their time and money on....

**Mikey** · 04-11-2010

So look in this parts breakdown pic and point out the fusible link
please.

http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~V10347782~C40065~R0~OB0~P4R0H~N/0/80851247/83215123/83215142/110520300/34853741/34864081/101367274/56251607/89304256/89300986

Now look here for you fusible link please!

http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~V10347782~C40065~R0~OB0~P4R0H~N/0/80851247/83215123/83215142/110520300/34853741/34864081/56251263/56251273/89021733/89021734

So be cool and don't be smart,n off dude.

**Mikey** · 04-12-2010

hmmmm?

**matt5112** · 04-12-2010

Sorry I don't come on here every day to argue with you. I'm going to clean my car and go work. Enjoy waiting for a response.

Edit: Car is clean, and I had some time so I took this:

Interpret this as you will.

**Mikey** · 04-12-2010

Originally Posted by matt5112

I have all the things you've mentioned and no big three yet my electrical system is doing just fine, in fact, I monitor it via a voltmeter gauge I have installed in my car.

Just because you havn't had a short doesnt mean you don't have a flaw in your electrical system.

Go look at your fuse box in your house, theres a main breaker for the entire panel. The same thing applies in your car. You have one massive fuse called a fusible link. Google it, you'll find many articles on it. Its not necessary, but neither is any fuse for that matter but its recommended for safety reasons.

Just because it works without it doesnt mean you shouldn't have it.

I did not disagree with you. Just merely try to tie things up with you all about the subject.

Here is the fusible link. I comes from the stater to the fuse block assy.

[/IMG]

http://www.alldatadiy.com

**Mikey** · 04-12-2010

The only reason I see is to protect the rest of the fuse block assembly from getting fried if the starter goes south & the solenoid grounds itself out. There is no protection from the battery to the fuse block other than the fuse block protecting itself with the large fuses installed in it. Peace.

http://www.alldatadiy.com

**matt5112** · 04-12-2010

So logic says, if the positive on the alt shorts out, what prevents it from frying itself? Does the computer have a fast enough response time to shut it off? Can the computer even do that?

It just seems stupid for it to have no protection is all.

**Mikey** · 04-13-2010

I agree about the protection. What would be the most logical place tho?

I have my sound system protected. Fuse closes to the battery connection, so I would assume that while doing a "Big Three" it could or should be factored in.

**matt5112** · 04-13-2010

I don't really know much when it comes to electrical schematics minus the basics but is the red connection the one you want to add to the circuit?

The fuse should be as close to the positive source as possible. If you could clarify that diagram it'd be most appreciated.

**Mikey** · 04-13-2010

Some people think to add the fuse between the battery and the fuse block assembly. It is already covered.

I would add the fuse between the battery + and the generator (alt) + side.

The fusible link is between the alternator and the starter solenoid in this diagram for an "01 GP / GT.

E12 / C1 is the positive post on top of the fuse block assembly.

**casper129** · 04-13-2010

. So now you would put a wire from the starter, to the battery.. with a fuse in it?

Or am I reading this schematic wrong. The "Generator" at the bottom seems to me to be the starter.. or is that the alt? lol I'm all confused trying to follow you guys now.

**Mikey** · 04-13-2010

Not exactly. Wire 32 BLK - 2 goes to the alternator and wire 32 BLK - 1 goes to the starter.

Generator is an alternator
Starter is only a starter that is initiated by a power source ( ie solenoid / battery.

A starter / generator is what aircraft jet engines use.

BTW I have an FAA power plants & Airframe License.

**matt5112** · 04-13-2010

Originally Posted by Mikey

Some people think to add the fuse between the battery and the fuse block assembly. It is already covered.

I would add the fuse between the battery + and the generator (alt) + side.

The fusible link is between the alternator and the starter solenoid in this diagram for an "01 GP / GT.

E12 / C1 is the positive post on top of the fuse block assembly.

One circled in blue there would work well. Its just easier to get to the fuse box from the alt.

**1LoudGrandPrix** · 04-13-2010

Originally Posted by matt5112

I give up on this thread, you guys are probably NEVER going to understand this no matter how many times I explain it.

i think we get along... for the most part....

**matt5112** · 04-13-2010

Originally Posted by TurboTrav

i think we get along... for the most part....

I should probably delete/edit that post.

**kjohnson** · 04-14-2010

naw its your true colors comming out

id leave it

**matt5112** · 04-14-2010

I cant get rid of it now, its quoted by at least one person so its stuck for good.

So fuse'd link from alt to fuse box? Or maybe even rewire it all?

**whiney** · 04-14-2010

What i still don't understand is that if you are going to put a fuse in your big three upgrade, what about the other wire that was originally supplying the power? So say if the fusable link is good for 100 amps and the upgrade has a 100 amp fuse in it. Really you are not accomplishing anything you would be able to draw 200 amps, almost double what the stock alt can even produce. Explain that please...

Thread: The Big 3, Everything You Wanted to Know + DIY

Thread Tools

Display

Similar Threads

Just wanted to say Hi

Bookmarks