Printable View
The ones I have seen are all one piece. Maybe the crutchfield version is different?
I am also wondering--it looks like most of you have stereos with the USB on the front. Do you like having it on the front better than the back? Do the wires ever get in your way or anything?
http://i53.tinypic.com/2yo8n7k.jpg
Dark so that's why it's kinda blurry, but it is basically flush..
mine's in the back, and i dig it that way because the ipod cable goes under the console into the little holder directly in front of the gear shift, where my pod sits.Quote:
Originally Posted by 40th GP
I like having the USB in the front because then I can plug anything USB into it. I mainly used it to charge my cell phone or play music from it or plug in an iPod without the need for anything besides the regular iPod cable, etc..
I went with the JVC as it has dual USB's, one in the back and one in the front. I have the iPhone cradle plugged into the rear and the front is used for the Bluetooth module or anything else that I want. Cleaner looking that way. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by 40th GP
Now that is the way to go. I didn't realize there was anything out there with one in front AND back.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco Boy
I ended up getting one with the plug in the back (it has not shown up yet, but hopefully soon), but I like that idea even better. I like being able to run a cable to the glove box so it is out of the way and able to be locked, but I don't want to have to reach to the glove box to change it out or anything. It seems like the front would have cables getting in the way or looking messy. I may end up running it under the console into the storage under the arm rest. That way easy access but out of sight and no cables in the way. I still like the dual USB thing though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco Boy
The more I think about it the more I think I need that JVC. Is it the KD-A815? What is the bluetooth module, I though the bluetooth was built in on that one? You wanna trade for a Pioneer DEH-P6000UB?
Trade? No thanks. The dual USB was one of my factors in choosing the JVC. Yes it is the KD-A815. I wish it had the Bluetooth built in, but we can't have everything. The Bluetooth module us just a regular USB Bluetooth plug-in thingy, but tiny.....Quote:
Originally Posted by 40th GP
http://www.store.jvc.com/images/product/QAU0526-001.JPG
I don't use it all the time, as I have a BlueAnt earpiece that WAY outperforms the JVC's ability to work with my phone. It is nice to have it if I want to use it though. :)
I know this thread is a little old, but I have my stereo installed now and everything sounded fine at first, then one day I was heading to work and the stereo comes to life like it usually does, except there was no sound. the lights were all lit up and the head unit still made the beeping sound when buttons are pushed, all the different features/functions seemed to work, just no sound. The remote control still controlled the stereo, as did the steering wheel controls--just no blasted sound coming out of the speakers. After work I hopped in and the sound was back on like normal, so I dismissed it as a fluke and drove home happy.
Well about a week later it happened again, so I armed myself with a test light and some tools in the car. The next time it happened a few days later I left the key on and pulled the radio out to check for power. Sure enough, I had power coming out of all the speaker wires at the rear of the deck. I put it back in and drove around with some times having sound and others not, then one day I was driving and had the tunes turned off when I swear I saw the clock turn off while I was driving. It was about 6:30 in the morning so I wasn't sure if I was just seeing things, but then a few minutes later all the lights on the radio went off and there was just nothing until I got to work.
Now things are getting weird! I figured that with power coming out of the speaker wires off the back of the deck (at the same time there was no sound at the speakers) that perhaps I have a wiring problem with the car, SO I removed the stereo all together, pulled the stereo out of the wife's car, and reinstalled them in the other cars. Now the stereo that was in my car is in her car and has not had a single problem since. the one that was in her car is now in my car, and it lights up but I have not got any sound out of it. Obviously the problem is my car, but what? the stock system is the Bose, and I have the peripheral GMOS1 bose/onstar adapter and the SWI-PS steering wheel control adapter. Anyone seen anything similar or have any ideas where I might start looking? It was intermittent at first, but I have not had any sound since putting the wife's stereo in the car. No other problems or symptoms with the car, and it seemed to start about a week after getting the stereo installed. FYI, I bought the car with the wiring and adapters in the dash, but no head unit. I removed the previous owner's head unit myself when I bought the car, and just got my new (to me) head unit in a few weeks ago. Any ideas before I start a new thread (in the electrical section I guess)?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40th GP
I have this exact setup right now asside from i have a sub and amp and ill be removing my bose soon. Theres a good chance the reason is your bose amp has up and failed on you. I didn't even need to run a gmos 1 with mine I just wired in the pink control wire on the stock harness into the control wire on the after-market stereo. However I have been told multiple times that because I'm running full speaker level output to the amp that eventually I will burn it out. I don't personally believe this, though I do see it as a possibility considering the factory stereo probably put out around 5x4 watts rms. Where as the new ones running 22x4 rms and I'm not sure the Bose was designed for that. Considering the audio problem was on both stereos even though they both worked it'll likely be either a burned out power line, maby the control wire is disconnected, or the annoying one, the bose amp is dead.
I have heard about the bose amp failing, but it didn't just up and die because I had sound for a while, then didn't for a day, then did for a week, then didn't again. It was intermittent at first, but last time I drove the car I had no sound all the way to work. I am going to switch stereos back tonight and see if I get any sound again then, but perhaps it just died a slow death. How would I test that? Can I put a test light on the speaker inputs and outputs at the amp? I guess if I have power at the inputs and not the outputs the amp is dead? Any other way to test it?
I thought the gmos 1 was there to regulate the system back to original bose specs, and to keep the chimes and such. Is that not the case? I am getting power on the bose side of the gmos 1 speaker outputs (the side going away from the stereo to the bose amp). Any other ideas?
What does it take to remove the bose altogether? Do you need all new speakers and new wires run from the deck to the speakers, or can you re-use any of that?
the Radio in my GTP is flush mounted got the Kit from ZZP .. had to remove some plastic from the inside of the dash so the HU fit .. so yes very possible
Does their kit have the pocket under the radio?Quote:
Originally Posted by Biohazed
Its possible the amp just died of "natural causes" but from what i know (keep in mind this may not be 100% correct) The gmos 1 only concerves the chime, the rap, and onstar, it cant really modify the voltage. I work at best buy so i get to talk to the tech on that subject quite a bit. Even they wouldn't bother paying for the gmos 1 and unless someone asks for it or they have onstar, the head tech would rather just run it by using a standard harness adapter. This is because the gmos is designed to be used on multiple GM systems not just factory amplified ones. If the gmos could lower the voltage then it would affect every other car you installed it in as well. The one I have is just sitting in a box after I removed the stereo from my friends old Malibu, and trust me that thing didn't have an amp. This things not very substantial for a 100 dollar install piece tho.
If you want to bypass the amp you can pretty much just remove it and take off the clips from the amp then just put the color matching wires together. Keep in mind your sound will change drastically, tho probably for the better. Only real way to find out if the amp has failed is to check its input and output as well as the control wires and the power wires for it. You'll find those in their own clip next to the audio input and output clips if i remember right.
And yes if you didnt want to do the high line level outputs one of the solutions Ive seen on a few infinities was taking RCA cables and cutting them off and running the low level outputs into the amplifier but that would only work if your amp were going into protect mode (if it has a protect mode) or somthing of that sort. I guess its possible your gmos is having troubles as well. So this could be any number of wires or components. I'd break out the multimeter and get to checking.