Thread: Head unit complexities

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  1. #1 Head unit complexities 
    SE Level Member mxthunder's Avatar
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    Hey guys its me again.
    Wanting to put a different head unit in my 01 GTP, but I thought about a few things that could make this hard.

    1. Does the factory head unit perform alarm system/ Driver information center reset information ( oil life) functions?
    2. What are my options, if any to retain the steering wheel controls?
    3. any suggestions on a $150 head unit?
    Autolite 103 plugs, PRJ 8 gauge wires, 160* drilled tstat, Digital Horse Power Stage 1 PCM, Voltage booster harness, 3.25" pully, ZZP S.S. IC, Desert Fox tranny cooler/Thrasher shift kit, Wizair CAI, SLP headers/full system wrapped & coated, 3 gauge pods: A/F, Boost (16.5 lbs), comp G. 17" 04 GTP rims
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  2. #2 Re: Head unit complexities 
    Resident HOMOsapien ZR1Vette09's Avatar
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    each brand may have its own adaptor to allow steering wheel controls to still work. check for compatibility for the head unit. a 150$ head unit from where?
    '00 Blazer- Good riddance '06 Grand Prix GT- Dead and Cool '05 Silverado- Sold '96 Jeep Cherokee-DD '97 BMW 328i-Project
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  3. #3 Re: Head unit complexities 
    SE Level Member mxthunder's Avatar
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    Crutchfield, best buy, wherever.
    So the steering wheel controls arn't too big of a deal hmm.
    Autolite 103 plugs, PRJ 8 gauge wires, 160* drilled tstat, Digital Horse Power Stage 1 PCM, Voltage booster harness, 3.25" pully, ZZP S.S. IC, Desert Fox tranny cooler/Thrasher shift kit, Wizair CAI, SLP headers/full system wrapped & coated, 3 gauge pods: A/F, Boost (16.5 lbs), comp G. 17" 04 GTP rims
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  4. #4 Re: Head unit complexities 
    GPF Mr. President nawarkk's Avatar
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    A place by me told me that some radio's actually have the adapter to make the steering wheel controls work, most don't though. They also said that if it doesn't work there was a part they could install in my car for $100 to make it work. I said no thanks and am with my stock radio right now. It does the job
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  5. #5 Re: Head unit complexities 
    SE Level Member mxthunder's Avatar
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    Yea, the stock head unit works great, with the exception of the CD player, that skips over every little bump i hit! Argh!

    Any suggestions on replacement speakers? I dont wanna replace the factory one ways with some two way speakers, im afraid that will mess up the dynamics.
    Autolite 103 plugs, PRJ 8 gauge wires, 160* drilled tstat, Digital Horse Power Stage 1 PCM, Voltage booster harness, 3.25" pully, ZZP S.S. IC, Desert Fox tranny cooler/Thrasher shift kit, Wizair CAI, SLP headers/full system wrapped & coated, 3 gauge pods: A/F, Boost (16.5 lbs), comp G. 17" 04 GTP rims
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  6. #6 Re: Head unit complexities 
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    All comes down to how much you want to spend.

    What you should look for are some 6.5" component speakers unless you wanna get creative...

    Keep the stock tweeter and find a good 4 Ohm 6.5" midwoofer within your price range.

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  7. #7 Re: Head unit complexities 
    Resident HOMOsapien ZR1Vette09's Avatar
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    what I would do is search crutchfield for a head unit you like anywhere from 200-250 dollars. Then go to my favorite website, sonicelectronix.com, and find it on there for as much as $100 cheapers.
    '00 Blazer- Good riddance '06 Grand Prix GT- Dead and Cool '05 Silverado- Sold '96 Jeep Cherokee-DD '97 BMW 328i-Project
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  8. #8 Re: Head unit complexities 
    SE Level Member mxthunder's Avatar
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    Thanks for the help guys. I think I may upgrade the speakers first, but after doing some reading on here, that doesnt sound simple either.
    Given a factory bose system, can I simply drop in new speakers for the rear deck? 3/4 of them dont work at all, but I think the system still sounds pretty good (yeah I know).
    I would just like to get some references or kappas, but they are two way speakers, replacing one ways. Would that throw off the dynamic of sound?
    Autolite 103 plugs, PRJ 8 gauge wires, 160* drilled tstat, Digital Horse Power Stage 1 PCM, Voltage booster harness, 3.25" pully, ZZP S.S. IC, Desert Fox tranny cooler/Thrasher shift kit, Wizair CAI, SLP headers/full system wrapped & coated, 3 gauge pods: A/F, Boost (16.5 lbs), comp G. 17" 04 GTP rims
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  9. #9 Re: Head unit complexities 
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    Lets just say, full range in the rear deck is a bad thing if you care about sound quality unless you turn the volume WAY down on the rear speakers.

    If you're going to leave the bose system in, dropping new speakers wouldn't be a problem. You'd just have to snip off the connectors for the stock speakers and crimp some female spade terminals on it and plug it in.

    If you think thats too much, keep in mind to get the rear 6x9's out you have to take out the rear seats...
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  10. #10 Re: Head unit complexities 
    GTX Level Member Pittman06's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nawarkk View Post
    A place by me told me that some radio's actually have the adapter to make the steering wheel controls work, most don't though. They also said that if it doesn't work there was a part they could install in my car for $100 to make it work. I said no thanks and am with my stock radio right now. It does the job
    seems a little high but audio shops are normally a rip off anymore, but yea, if a unit doesn't have it already (most mid class don't) it can be added on to most. If your wanting to stay in that price range i highly recommend the lower end Eclipse or Kenwood Ex, I've had the same Eclipse for the last 9 years with NO problems (except had to have the laser aligned after a wreck) and it still sounds great and plays everything. I also have a mid class Kenwood in my S-10 and i LOVE it for the price, wish i would have went up to the Ex but still a great unit!
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  11. #11 Re: Head unit complexities 
    SE Level Member mxthunder's Avatar
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    So find some one way speakers to drop in? Or I suppose I could snip the connectors to the dome tweets that come in refrences etc and make them into a one way lol. I dont mind cutting the connectors, taking out the back seat? wow.... thats a fine piece of engineering for ya.. gotta love GM.
    Autolite 103 plugs, PRJ 8 gauge wires, 160* drilled tstat, Digital Horse Power Stage 1 PCM, Voltage booster harness, 3.25" pully, ZZP S.S. IC, Desert Fox tranny cooler/Thrasher shift kit, Wizair CAI, SLP headers/full system wrapped & coated, 3 gauge pods: A/F, Boost (16.5 lbs), comp G. 17" 04 GTP rims
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  12. #12 Re: Head unit complexities 
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    tangband makes some 6x9 subs if you were willing to get a small amp. You could have some nice bass from those, get some nice 6.5" for the doors and some tweeters for the stock spots. Wouldn't be that bad, at all.
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  14. #14 Re: Head unit complexities 
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    Quote Originally Posted by matt5112 View Post
    If you're going to leave the bose system in, dropping new speakers wouldn't be a problem. You'd just have to snip off the connectors for the stock speakers and crimp some female spade terminals on it and plug it in.
    I read somewhere that the Bose speakers are 2 ohm and if you change the speaker to 4 ohm they will distort. I've never tried it out for myself but you might want to look into it. It might make it a little harder to install just any speaker and hook it up to the factory bose amp.
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  15. #15 Re: Head unit complexities 
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    Quote Originally Posted by felonygtp View Post
    I read somewhere that the Bose speakers are 2 ohm and if you change the speaker to 4 ohm they will distort. I've never tried it out for myself but you might want to look into it. It might make it a little harder to install just any speaker and hook it up to the factory bose amp.
    Two things: One, measure the resistance of the speakers, they're all different based on the car and how they're setup. and two, they'd only distort if you managed to clip it, which isn't possible because bose systems have soft clipping so you don't get terrible clipping.
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