Thread: Fixing amp or just get sell the stuff

Is an amp fixable? or is it not even worth it?
My amp doesnt want to work anymore. The hook up for the left side of the subs quit working so I then had to bridge them, now it wont even stay on. If I get it a good whack in the right spot it will start to work but if it moves or I turn it off then it wont work again. Its getting really frustrating, I just wanted a lil bass nothing much. I guess learned my lesson, Ill get the good stuff next time.
Im thinkin im just going to sell the subs, boxs, wires, unless there is a cheap solution....

I guess it depends on the quality or brand of AMP, its something like Jensen or other generic labled amp, I would say no. If it was something on the higher end scale, it might be more considerable. But the way amp prices are right now, it might just been a good time to get a good midgrade amp or even search eBay for a hidden treasure there for amps.

Just a thought.

^ I agree. Not alot out there thats worth fixing unless you have rare vintage amp or a HQ beast. Ebay is the way to go for cheap decent amps. I just sold 400 watt mono kicker amp on there for 60 bucks. Wish you posted this week ago

its a Volfenhag amp and subs, my brother n law talked me into getting them about two years ago. I dont really want to sell the stuff, but if the amp isnt fixable I would rather sell the subs and stuff and buy/ save up for other stuff for my car.

Yes sell the Volfenhagen.

yea I know everyone says bad things about them, I didnt know much about that stuff when I was talked into to getting those, they have been nothing but trouble.

I was thinkin maybe after I sell the other stuff that I might buy a small amp to hook up my JL 6 x 9 s to....good idea??

If thats all you want that sounds like a plan. I would suggest a JL 300/2 for them but I'm sure thats more than you want to spend. I have an old Coustic sitting around that I would sell ya pretty cheap. I can take pics if your interested.

how cheap?

30 shipped.

Originally Posted by JCG's-GTP

30 shipped.

wow thats an inciting offer, but I cant buy it. I just had to pay for 6 months of car insurance and had to buy new head lights. Thanks for the help and generosity I really appreciate it. Maybe ill be able to take you up on that offer in the near future.

Whenever you want it I'm sure it will still be here. Just kept it as a backup amp. Originally bought it for my center channel but WAY too powerful lol.

ok well the amp worked for a lil bit then stopped, I then turned down the gain and bass boost and changed some other settings then it started working. I then when working on my car noticed the fuse by the battery, that the end had melted so I pried it out and put a new one in, it continued too work... Then the other day it turned on and went out, I noticed today that the new fuse I put in was burnt...

So I think I need a bigger fuse block made for bigger amps... right??
any suggestions?

Well it could very well be, but you have to take a couple things into consideration. How many Amps is the amp truly pushing out, do you have multiple amps going to same one fuse block? If so, you need to figure out the Amps of both and make sure your fuse block is setup to match closely to that configuration. You dont want to go way over and you dont ever want to go under the amps of the total group on that power line to the fuse block.

Example being, you have two amps, each say 2 x 30amp fuses. Most likely each fuse will govern a different part of the amp for protection purposes. You have a total of 4 x 30amp fuses equalling 120amp. You will want your fuse block to atleast have the 120amp for protection but you could go a bit higher, maybe say 150amp max. If you put to high of amp fuses on your block, you help the AMPs themselves basically fry if you are not careful. Most likely the fuses on the amps will go before the actual Amp does, but there are always those extreme cases where it could fry the amp.

Another topic you need to look at is your power and ground cabling. 4ga Wiring is really a happy norm between to high and to low in regards to funnelling power from your battery to your amp. When you have power cabling that is to small, in theory you are forcing the current to push harder against the wiring thus leading to potential problems down the road. Also the same can be said if you use a 0/1ga wire on an underpowered amp. If you have to much wire, you can in theory hamper the amps performance and ability to pull power from the power wire itself, thus causing a strain on the unit.

Also you want to look at your ground wiring and how it is setup. I personally found the thickest metal in our cars, the spot right above the middle seat post your back seat bolts onto. Right above that post where the seat rests on and you secure the back down with a nut the metal is quite thick right there. I drilled a nice little hole big enough to put a metal screw down it to secure my ground wires. I went as far as sanding off the paint down to bare to help with grounding of the wiring. Be mindful of not using to long of a screw in that location. Why you ask? Well your gas tank sits right behind that location. So the possibility of puncturing it while drilling and putting the screw in are ever present. I used a 1" screw to do the job nicely.

The wiring advice I just metioned is my own suggestion on what I have dealt with since getting into working with aftermarket car stereos and reading numerous Audiophile sites on such subjects. Everyone will have their own take on how wiring and fusing should go. I just wanted to let that be known

I hope this has helped a little bit

thanks for sharing your knowledge much appreciated.
I was actually looking for suggestions on a fuse holder to get.
But it is always valuable to learn new things.

Thanks

anyone im going to go to best buy today, but if I could find something cheaper on ebay, it would save me a trip