Thread: 95 passkey location

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  1. #1 95 passkey location 
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    Information on the 95 GP electrical is sparse and often mislabeled so I am looking for someone who can help. I have had a random stall,start then die and separate random no crank for a while now.Got to the point it would start and die 9 time out of 10.Replaced a sticking fuel injector that was apparently a separate problem .Determined the no crank was only when using the spare key.Did the resistor bypass and now both keys crank but it still starts and dies. The "vats" are turning off the injectors after 3 second still. This is where information gets fogy.Is the passkey a box in the dash(where?) or incorporated into the BCM?ecm? Everyone agrees it is a blue wire carrying 50htz signal that can be replaced with a simple circuit box. Anyone know where I can find this blue wire?
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  2. #2 Re: 95 passkey location 
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    I did the kind of bypass you are asking about to a 96 camaro which is passkey II and I believe would be same/similar. In the camaro, the 50Hz signal you are talking about is sent from the BCM to the ECU (PCM). The BCM is a separate box and on the camaro is located inside the passenger area. But the wire that you have to cut and feed the circuit into is one that goes into the ECU/PCM.

    I believe this is a dark blue wire and is called the "Pass key fuel enable" circuit on GM schematics. For the camaro it is circuit 55. Good luck - hope this helps.
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  4. #3 Re: 95 passkey location 
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    Correction pin 55 on the PCM connector C1 which is the blue connector.
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  5. #4 Re: 95 passkey location 
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    Thanks for the reply! That is what I was looking for.The 89 to 01 camaro use the same vats/passkey wiring setup as the 95 GP but a different pcm. Most people disable in programming but this is obd1.5 so not a real option.Now I know the direction of the current and the destination. I haven't found an pcm pin out for it. It has 3 square plugs going into 3 separate corners on the pcm.The BCM is by the drivers left foot with one pigtail I can see. Could I cut the dark blue wire at the bcm,cap the pigtail end and attach the signal generator to the wire that would then run to the pcm? Assuming the wiring on a w body isn't the problem. lol
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  6. #5 Re: 95 passkey location 
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    Yes that is how I did it for my car. The signal generator sends the signal into the PCM. My signal generator came off Ebay and cost about $18. Its was called "GM VATS or PasskeyII Bypass Module for LS1 and LT1". Even though that title makes it sound like it only works for V8's it worked fine for the V6. All that signal is doing is telling the PCM that the car is not being stolen so keep the fuel pump running. The theft logic is all inside the BCM and if the BCM thinks that the correct key is being used it sends that very same signal to the PCM.

    But I should also mention that the anti theft relay has a role to play outside of the signal generator. Your trying to use a legit key for the car to start it and just want the faulty chip in the key circuit to be bypassed so the signal generator should be all you need to do. But if you were trying to steal a car and you didn't have the key - you would need to do the signal generator AND bypass the anti-theft relay too.
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  8. #6 Re: 95 passkey location 
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    You are saying there are only 2 steps to eliminate the anti theft. Signal generator and the resistor in the key switch,right? Already installed the resistor so both keys will now engage the starter.Fully charged the battery and tried the relearn procedure one more time.It started and "idled" at 2k for a few minuets before it just stopped. Restarted with bumping the key and it would high idle but will only run from 2k-2500 rpm without dieing. Then back to fire right up for 3 seconds and dies. Vacuum is good and chassis ground is good.Checked fuel pressure,45psi start 35-40 psi running but it bleeds down to 0 in 20 minutes after shut down.Swapped the map sensor with one from another car.pigtail is cracked so that may be an issue. Pulled 2,4 and 6 plugs they are are all covered in black powdery soot so running rich.Just replaced the injectors cause #1 was not closing,and bypassed the cat because all the raw fuel turned it into a baby rattle. Unplugged and caped evap and fuel reg.lines even though they didn't appear to be purging fuel.no real change. Thunder storm stopped me there.My son borrowed the car a year ago and I towed it home when it died.Drove it off the trailer and of course it died at the end of the driveway not in the garage.Going to check regulator,coils,vacuum leak at throttle body(tested vacuum at map port), cam sensor,and replace map pigtail.Think I have fixed the VATS problem.Now for everything else he has broken.Thanks for your help.
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  9. #7 Re: 95 passkey location 
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    Yeah from your symptoms I don't think you have any VATS issues right now. If the signal generator wasn't working the car would consistently only run for 3 seconds after start. And if your anti-theft relay wasn't working the starter wouldn't even turn over the motor. You probably have additional problems - old car/ran when parked issues. Good luck!
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  10. #8 Re: 95 passkey location 
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    I guess I should also mention that when I did this stuff to my Camaro it had not run in a very long time. While I was trying to deal with the anti theft stuff I didn't know that I also had a bunch of dead fuel injectors. I would suggest you do your best to prove that the fuel rail and return line are working and not clogged with old/bad gas. Also verify that each injector is still functioning. All I did was pull them off and hold them in my hand while hooking up an extra pigtail I had cut off a car in the wrecking yard. If the injector in your hand makes a small bump when you energize it and/or you see a little spit coming off the business end - that is a good injector. If no bump you can feel in your hand then replace it with one that does work. Once I got 6 good injectors, a clean fuel rail, fresh gas and the signal generator stuff working I was good to go.
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  11. #9 Re: 95 passkey location 
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    Finally got a break in the weather and found the problem.The pellet in one key was bad and the pickups in the switch were going so the resistor bypass had fixed that.The pig tail on the MAP sensor had a small crack in the plastic shield of the ground probe lead. Replaced it with one off of a scrap loom and she lives again.Just posting this so if anyone stumbles onto this thread in the future they know a bad MAP pigtail can act like bad VATS.
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