Thread: Use monsoon amp wiring for new amp?

Originally Posted by industrialfish

75Wx4 at 14V is 21A.

Thanks, so that's a no

Originally Posted by polarissucks

Thanks, so that's a no

That's max though. Your amp might only have a 15A fuse in it because it's not really 75Wx4. For instance my "2000Wx1" sub amp has 2x40A fuses. That's actually only 1120W at 14V.

I've wondered the same thing about using the wiring to power the speakers. would a 50watt x 4 be ok?

Originally Posted by SgtMarshal

I've wondered the same thing about using the wiring to power the speakers. would a 50watt x 4 be ok?

Again, it all depends on how big the fuse on the amp is to tell you how much amperage it can actually pull.

Since the whole circuit is on a 25A fuse, the monsoon should have a 10ga power wire (30A rated) so that the fuse blows before the wire melts in the event of a short.

Plus, it's insanely easy to run wires in our cars, no matter the year. trim comes off very easy, and very accessible hole through firewall already in passenger floor! I say run at least an 8 gauge (or bigger) back there and that way if you decide to run a sub, all you need is a hi-lo converter. Upgrade your ground while you're at it. An easy and great place to ground to is add an extra bolt to one of the rear strut tower bolts. I'm not saying you'll get 500W out of a 200W amp, but hey, it can't hurt.

Is there any way I can run this without drilling? Thanks for your help

Could I run it through boot beside door

Remove the kick panel under the glove box, it's three plastic push pins. Then pull back the passenger foot carpet. There is a large square grommet around a wire harness you can remove to run a thick wire, or to the left of that is the round grommet for the cruise control cable.

Use a razor to notch out the square grommet to accompany the wire if it's too big, it's designed to be taken out and put back in. Or just use a stiff wire to poke through the small grommet but be careful not to accidentally push out the cruise control grommet because it's a ***** to get back in.

Originally Posted by industrialfish

Remove the kick panel under the glove box, it's three plastic push pins. Then pull back the passenger foot carpet. There is a large square grommet around a wire harness you can remove to run a thick wire, or to the left of that is the round grommet for the cruise control cable.

Use a razor to notch out the square grommet to accompany the wire if it's too big, it's designed to be taken out and put back in. Or just use a stiff wire to poke through the small grommet but be careful not to accidentally push out the cruise control grommet because it's a ***** to get back in.

This is exactly how I did it. Super easy. Just remember to secure the wire in he engine bay since your headers are right there on the other side! I forgot I hadn't done this and nearly burned down my car! Course that's just me being dull...

Originally Posted by wstefan20

This is exactly how I did it. Super easy. Just remember to secure the wire in he engine bay since your headers are right there on the other side! I forgot I hadn't done this and nearly burned down my car! Course that's just me being dull...

Yeah there are enough other wires there to secure yours to so you don't run into problems. Just make sure you put a correct fuse at the battery so you don't risk burning your car down. A major cause of electrical problems in cars is people installing aftermarket electronics without proper fusing.

I would recommend putting a large fuse by the battery (for future sub amps), then branching off in the trunk with the appropriate smaller gauge wire with the appropriate smaller fuse. This way, you're not limiting future installs, might cost you $5-10 extra, and you're doing it safe. Even if you never plan on adding a sub for you, it's always a card to keep in your pocket to get extra value out of your car when you go to sell later!

Thanks.you have been very helpful.amp wire went in great. Last question, is it easy to run new speaker wire to both front doors? I know where to run it after but just the getting it from the door and into the car seems hard!

Thanks

Originally Posted by polarissucks

Thanks.you have been very helpful.amp wire went in great. Last question, is it easy to run new speaker wire to both front doors? I know where to run it after but just the getting it from the door and into the car seems hard!

If you are pulling your monsoon amp, you shouldn't need to run new wires. Find the diagram for the monsoon connector and the wires are right there.

I agree with industrialfish on that one. Here's some schematics that might come in handy: http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/r...96b43f80cb3c3a. If it blocks you, just create free autozone account and browse away!

I ran speaker wires because I had the stock unit with no rear amp or wires there. To directly answer your question though, yes it is fairly simple, after removing the door panels and the under trim, pull the boot from the frame side of the door and fish a stiff piece of wire (coat hanger etc.) through the boot and attach your speaker wire to one end. Then carefully pull it through, terminate ends and done! Then routed same as power wire to trunk.

Originally Posted by industrialfish

If you are pulling your monsoon amp, you shouldn't need to run new wires. Find the diagram for the monsoon connector and the wires are right there.

thanks for your help. I know you guys are spoon feeding me, but this is my first time at this. Where do you recommend the easiest ground point is?

thanks, appreciate it. I will just use the existing wires, was just worried it would degrade sound. Going 80 watts at 3 ohms to the front doors.