Thread: Remote Start Installation, with a hiccup.

So I just finished installing the remote start I got for cheaps, it includes the PK3+ bypass module and is programmed properly.

and YES, before you go all "let a professional do it", I had a professional walk through it with me, I know for sure that all of the wires are spliced to the correct ones and the bypass module is working correctly... HOWEVER...

As soon as the negative battery terminal is connected, the remote start module acts as if the engine is already running and applies power to the ignition system. If I get into the car and put the key in, I can turn it to on, and then off, and it still acts like a key is in the ignition and on. Even after starting the car, I can pull the key out and it continues running.

The remote start is ran off of 4 separate 5 prong relays. If one or more of those relays are bad or sticking, would that cause this issue?

I can post the instructions if that would help, but I've been through everything I can think of. Triple checked every connection and fuse. Verified every module gets power, and the programming LED confirms, through testing, that the main module is programmed correctly. I'm just wanting to know if a bad relay can cause it to activate the ignition when it shouldn't, because I don't have a working multimeter right now to test the relays.

Any ideas to help would be appreciated, and before you tell me to take it in to a shop, cheapest place to have them look at it wants $250, $350 to fix it. Not going to spend that much when the entire kit cost me $60.

There is a probably a reason you got it for cheap. Something like you are describing happening is what eventually started happening to a car my mom had that my dad and I installed a remote start on years ago.

When we first installed it everything was awesome and it worked as it should. After a period of time (Six months? One year? Honestly can't remember) the remote start module would randomly "take over the car." It almost left her stranded once as it took over as she was driving down the highway. We eventually had no choice but to disconnect it.

Hmm... Was it a Stellar brand?

I wonder if changing your door lock settings would do anything, for the lights/horn settings.

4 relays? Old skool for sure! LOL

The relay(s) could be the problem, or the main brain. I'd start by testing the relays to make sure they are opening and closing.

Originally Posted by WarStryker13

Hmm... Was it a Stellar brand?

Its been so long ago. It may have been Bulldog.

I've only played with three and four pole relays, not entirely sure how to test the 5 pole... Google time. Lol

I did use the little test light I have to make sure of the correct lock, brake and key sense wire for the PK3+ bypass module, but I'm guessing because of the relay sticking, the module isn't activating before the ignition circuit is energized, causing the SERVICE THEFT SYSTEM message.

I would like to know if anyone 04+ has a working aftermarket remote start and knows if there actually is a second ignition wire at the cylinder, because I've gotten conflicting info from a different company that claims there is two that test the same, but doesn't give the chime when energized with the key in the cylinder. The FSM wiring diagram says there's only one ignition wire, and I don't have a chime anymore due to the aftermarket stereo that was hacked into this car before I got it.

I simply connected the three wires to the ignition cylinder harness, one for accessory, one for ignition, and one for starting. I've got 2 16g wires connected to the positive post on the side of the underhood fuse box, for the two 30A +12v power wires to the relay pack, both of the modules have separate power wires ad well, and those are tied into the radio +12v power, since they're less than a 3 amp draw total. Grounds are to the dash frame, where most of the interior electronics are grounded to. I haven't put all of the interior panels back on yet, in case I needed to change something.

If it is a relay, I don't want this issue to crop up later, so what company makes the best quality replacement relays?

Originally Posted by WarStryker13

If it is a relay, I don't want this issue to crop up later, so what company makes the best quality replacement relays?

I've always had quick access to Hella relay's, and they've never let me down. I think as long as you get a good name brand, not Ching-Le-Wah type, you will be fine.

Awesome, thanks. Pretty sure these relays don't have a brand mane on them, least not from what I could tell..

I also had another thought, if the remote start module is stuck in valet mode from the start, wouldn't it do basically everything that it has been? Staying in "ignition on" mode perpetually?

I'll have to take another look at the manual, figure out what combo of buttons to press to get it out of valet mode, then disable it permanently. I don't need it.

Originally Posted by WarStryker13

I also had another thought, if the remote start module is stuck in valet mode from the start, wouldn't it do basically everything that it has been? Staying in "ignition on" mode perpetually?

Valet Mode disables the alarm so it can't be armed by the stranger you let drive it, so I don't think that would be an issue. If valet is on, it shouldn't remote start? Might have to try that on mine. LOL

Idk, I've heard that some "valet" modes let you pull the key out and it continues running...

It would be nice if you could post each model manual or a link. These cars are notorious for data bus problems. I installed professionally for many years and got out right around 05'. The module you got interfaces with the data bus or do you just have the module that uses an extra key that's hidden in the car and activated when the remote start is active? The only difference between a 4 and 5 pin is that instead of just closing a contact you have one of the pins that is common to the other contact. You have normally open, and common and normally closed. So basically you can open a circuit by turning the relay on. Use Bosch, P&B, or Hella which is made by one of the one of the two, I forget.

Oh the service theft system can also come on when the car senses 2 different keys at the same time. I have seen where have relays that are there don't drop out and leave the key in circuit when your other key is in the ignition and have also seen some timing issues as well when I did warranty work for Crimestopper before they were bought by Rockford Fosgate.

Yeah I can post them up, no problem...

Mine is the one with the key inside the ribbon cable, inside the box with a loop of wire wound around the cylinder. Lol

And I figured it was because the car was seeing both keys at the same time...lots of troubleshooting to do. Lol

Originally Posted by WarStryker13

Idk, I've heard that some "valet" modes let you pull the key out and it continues running...

Yikes. That sounds old skool too. LOL

FYI, I checked on the operation of my 3 year old Code Alarm CA6552 and the remote start is disabled when in valet mode.

Well the module is "brand new", but was originally bought more than 6 years ago. Lol

I'm just gonna leave it unplugged for now, I need to clean it out and put all of the dash panels back in, clean up all the wires and hide them so I don't have to explain to the service department that's doing the recall Wednesday why it's all disassembled...

I'm also having trouble finding the instructions for programming valet mode, the sheet I have just has instructions for checking it, not for actually programming it different.

Time for bed now though. Lol