Thread: Nitrous, Dry or Wet?

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  1. #1 Nitrous, Dry or Wet? 
    GT Level Member japslpr's Avatar
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    I have a NX Nitrous kit that a friend of mine gave me. It was made for a wet setup, but I was wondering what setup is safer to use with the M90? I believe I read somewhere that Dry is safer because you don't get the same fuel to nitrous mix when shooting through the blower.

    Any suggestions?
    Jae Harris: 1999 GTP, PARTED OUT
    1997 GTP: K&N 9", Stage 3 Gen 3, ZZP Hub w/ 3.25, S/S Headers, T&D Split Ratio RR (I-1.6, E-1.7), DHP 1.0, BEAR Big Brake Kit, 17x9 Cobra R's, GMPP Strut Towers F/R, Stage 1 Custom Cam
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  2. #2 Re: Nitrous, Dry or Wet? 
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    Whoever told you dry was safer is a dumb ass. Wet is the best set-up for our car and any other EFI car.

    NX is based here out of Wichita Falls. I go there regularly.
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  3. #3 Re: Nitrous, Dry or Wet? 
    GrandPrix Junkie Sabrewings's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Street Wolf View Post
    NX is based here out of Wichita Falls. I go there regularly.
    If I ever decide to get it on my Impala I'm going there in person.
    2004 Impala LS - got some mods sold!!!
    2009 Subaru Impreza WRX STI

    NAIOA moderator Still Imp'n, just in a different Imp.
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  4. #4 Re: Nitrous, Dry or Wet? 
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sabrewings View Post
    If I ever decide to get it on my Impala I'm going there in person.
    Yeah? That's quite a drive. The area most people see isn't very exciting. Just a small room with some bottles laying around and some brochures. lol
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  5. #5 Re: Nitrous, Dry or Wet? 
    Donating Users GR8racingfool's Avatar
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    Wet or Dry will work with our cars.

    It does not really matter what you use, as long as you are set up for it, and tuned properly for it.

    Regardless...shooting through the supercharger wont hurt too much, (oh no my precious teflon rotor coating ) ...er...anyways... you will not get a very good equal distribution of nitrous to all the cylinders.

    Will this hurt you?

    Yes, and no. If your running it a lot, and have a pretty massive shot running through your engine, yes over time.

    Anything at or under a 75 HP shot will be more than fine long term. With that...no, that wont hurt you.

    Hard on other weak parts for sure...transmission for one...such as letting the engine shift under WOT and a nitrous spray is not good on a stock transmission.

    Wet or dry...take your pick. You can run and use either just fine on our cars.

    ~F~
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  6. #6 Re: Nitrous, Dry or Wet? 
    GrandPrix Junkie Sabrewings's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Street Wolf View Post
    Yeah? That's quite a drive. The area most people see isn't very exciting. Just a small room with some bottles laying around and some brochures. lol
    Do they not install? I figured if they installed I'd rather someone else do it.
    2004 Impala LS - got some mods sold!!!
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  7. #7 Re: Nitrous, Dry or Wet? 
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sabrewings View Post
    Do they not install? I figured if they installed I'd rather someone else do it.
    Yeah, they do.
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  8. #8 Re: Nitrous, Dry or Wet? 
    I live here. UR LOSN's Avatar
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    I would stick with a wet kit. you are able to change the shot without having to worry about your tune. I like them. these motors handle spray very well.... anything around 150.. I would deduct timing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    100 and under you will be safe.
    2001 GTP- PT76 turbo, Intense Drag cars old engine, Stage 4 Intense turbo cam,FMIC,150 wet,Double roller timing chain,Diamond forged coated pistons 8:0:1,Diamond piston rings,Cryoed L32 connecting rods,Cryoed crank,Clevite77 main bearings,Clevite77 cam bearings,Clevite77 L32 rod bearings,ARP Everything, Intense/meizere true billet Flexplate,Intense Wilson UIM/LIM,Intense oil pressure kit,Cometic,OE-R lifters,Cryoed L67 block,ATI turbo dampner,80# inject,Weldon 2035 fp,Aero Fuel Rails,AL cradle
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  9. #9 Re: Nitrous, Dry or Wet? 
    GT Level Member japslpr's Avatar
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    I need a WOT switch and either a button or an RPM switch as well.

    Got any part number I can get for these 2 items? I also need a 100 and 75 jets.

    I have a built tranny with hard parts and such. Pretty much my car is set up for nitrous, just need to install it. Got everything except for the items I listed above.

    F~yeah, I don't want to spray @ WOT through the shift. That is why I want an RPM switch or a button.
    Jae Harris: 1999 GTP, PARTED OUT
    1997 GTP: K&N 9", Stage 3 Gen 3, ZZP Hub w/ 3.25, S/S Headers, T&D Split Ratio RR (I-1.6, E-1.7), DHP 1.0, BEAR Big Brake Kit, 17x9 Cobra R's, GMPP Strut Towers F/R, Stage 1 Custom Cam
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  10. #10 Re: Nitrous, Dry or Wet? 
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    Quote Originally Posted by japslpr View Post
    I need a WOT switch and either a button or an RPM switch as well.

    Got any part number I can get for these 2 items? I also need a 100 and 75 jets.

    I have a built tranny with hard parts and such. Pretty much my car is set up for nitrous, just need to install it. Got everything except for the items I listed above.

    F~yeah, I don't want to spray @ WOT through the shift. That is why I want an RPM switch or a button.
    A wet shot is best for someone without a tuner for sure, and big shots unless you run a dp kit. A dry shot combined with a tuner up to a certain point (as long as you can supply enough fuel through injectors) is much safer than a wet shot through the blower IMO. The person that said a wet kit is safer than a dry kit must be from CGP . How many nitrous backfires have you seen with a dry kit? Your best bet is a direct port system IMO since the nitrous won't heat up and turn into a gas before it gets to the cylinder. You also have an i/c... shooting a wet shot through this doesn't exactly sound like a good idea to me to be honest. I think that if you invested that much money into your setup you can find a little more to get a direct port kit instead of a single fogger. There's kits to turn a fogger into a direct port BTW, something i suggest you look into. Nitrous in liquid form is the best it'll ever be, putting it through a blower, warmish i/c, and hot intake manifold will only turn it into a gas thus making it less efficient.

    FWIW i spray through my shifts, yes it does wear out the clutches quicker OMG!!! I drag race my car... if I was scared about my trans i wouldn't drag race, some of you are wimps lol. If you're only running a 75-100 shot just let it spray through the shift. I'll bet you won't be able to hook in 1st anyways (i run 1.9 rockers and can't hook in 1st on a 100shot and slicks) so it'll only spray through the 2-3 shift for you. The xpz setup probably is just as hard on the trans anyways, If anything enable your tq management so it yanks a bunch of timing out between shifts that will help it last longer. You gotta pay to play, however if you're really scared, get a nitrous controller. That's all i have for now, but if you want to go fast safely, don't use nitrous.
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  11. #11 Re: Nitrous, Dry or Wet? 
    Donating Users GR8racingfool's Avatar
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    Suggestion is to run a "window switch" which will open your solenoids at WOT and when set up correctly when your throttle body blade is fully open. (yes have seen them installed wrong)

    With a button...push on, no puck off...you might run into problems with too soon, and too long.

    Best way is a window switch, and pills, where you have a RPM window, for what RPM you want it ON and OFF. Such as 3000 RPM on, and 6500 RPM off for example. I use the window switch and nothing else for me.

    Quote Originally Posted by japslpr View Post
    Pretty much my car is set up for nitrous, just need to install it.
    Common statement I see, which usually ends in failure when they try to run a large shot on a mostly internal stock built engine. Problems they see is chipped pistons...which is not a result of engine knock, but engine HEAT. Running nitrous, though cold, once burned runs extremely hot in an engine. If the piston ring gap is not changed, such as INCREASED, then you run the risk of chipping your pistons, or worse yet, grenade your engine. The piston rings will expand with the heat, as they are made to, and if they are still at the stock settings, for emissions...then they have no where to go but up or over lap in the piston groove...and pop goes the top of your piston. Mostly right in the corner, over the top of the gap of the top ring is where they will pop off.

    or...the whole piston goes pop.

    if your going to do it right...run a larger gap in your rings and play it safe.

    And don't forget to pull timing, that's pretty important too.

    ~F~
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