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if you dont have a tuner you cant do any thing with it. you need dhp, or htp. i just saw a dhp for sale for $250 in the parts for sale section.
if you do have or get a tuner theres lots of support here for it. bills drop box is the key to a lot of bins and tuning info.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/npa8brtuzoq3qps/jqYuBP0cv-
I have a copy of TOAD software on the laptop and an OBD2 scanner but haven't purchased the necessary flash cable/hardware. I may depending on how things go with the piece I scrounged today.
The $25 salvage 1997 GTP PCM reports no error codes from the car it came out of. There was no good salvage starter. I'll have to come up with at least the plastic ring gear. More likely I'll have to buy a rebuilt starter.
Having installed the starter what should I expect the first time I try to start it?
new starter should crank like normal.
the pcm if you installed it may or may not fire right up in your car, depends on if the osid of the file inside it is the same as your old one.
if it wont crank you need to do a security learn. key to run for 10 minutes off for 10 seconds, repeat 3 times, the 4 th time you turn the key it should crank.
It will crank. It won't start. I went through the security-learn process several times, hoping it might "click" but not luck.Quote:
Originally Posted by GooberDoggs
I have scan data which reports all sort of failures. Would there be any particular failure that would be a clue on what to do next?
whats the codes? and have you cleared the codes yet?
The scanner reported no trouble codes.Quote:
Originally Posted by GooberDoggs
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike3
whats this data your getting from a non running car then?
See attached screen shots in this and the next reply.Quote:
Originally Posted by GooberDoggs
Our cars if pissed about security will fire up and run for 2-5 seconds then die.
If it's not firing up at all..but cranking. Check that the plugs aren't soaked (because after enough primes and no starts, they should be), spray a little tb cleaner down it's throat or into a vacuum line. If it fires up and half runs for a second..you are missing fuel somehow.
cant even see it. to small.
if the cars not running your data is worthless. i can scan a pcm and get bad data too, when the cars not running of course.
BTW..if it does fire up. I'd start by disconnecting the maf and seeing if it'll fire up..maybe use a touch of throttle once you know the plugs to be dry
I edited that post. Try viewing the attachments now. BTW I'm having trouble getting the attachment manager to let me upload more images.Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottyDoggs
This data is different from the very first read which appeared to show data from the car the computer came out of.
use photo bucket, then copy the url and past it here in the icon for pics in the reply box.
this screen shot is the only one that would concern me. you try the old pcm in the car again yet? hel i forget why you changed it????
http://www.grandprixforums.net/attac...1&d=1439211576
In the images I couldn't get uploaded it showed the correct air temp, water temp, MAF, speed, and RPM.
What is the correct maf while cranking?
no idea but im sure its worth less data. car needs to run to see live data.Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
I just tried it and the scanner sees live data during cranking. How could that be if the ECU is dead?Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottyDoggs
The point I was getting at about correct maf data is.. you might see something. But if the maf isn't seeing the "correct" amount according to the pcm parameter.... it doesn't give you fuel.
No fuel, no start.
The way our vehicles work is you turn the key, the fuel pump runs for a second to prime the system up to the right pressure. The maf even while cranking can give you a reading to keep the injectors closed. Yes...I know this because I've run across it.
It seems I just trashed the new starter. So I'm done. I appreciate everyone's input.