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lol not sure, all i know is when ever i try to set up stuff away from the car its hit or miss if it works.
i just push and hold the screen, add gauge, pic one, then scroll to what i want, its a alphabetical list.
when in the car in the green highlighted areas it will show a value if its working most of the time.
It shouldn't matter when or how you add them. The first time you had it working, why did you reinstall? Were you watching your timing advance and KR? Did they both show same data, like KR 5 degrees, then your timing dropped the same? If its working it looks like you have a major exhaust restriction or something.
I didn't reinstall, I did everything but. The ignition timing wouldn't show. MAP, MAF ,O2, iat, coolant and KR were all showing. Igniting had No Data. But at that time I had a drop of power and 14* of retard at 16". Some time the car just comes alive but I haven't had data on that yet. I have everything online and when I pick a timing gauge in Torque it's not green thought I saw not supported as well.
about the drive out of the neighborhood why would I already have 3* if retard for a second. Then it was really erratic 1* here 2 there. Then getting up to 30mph even higher values. Then normal turn higher values. It seems overly sensitive. Then other times when you see that higher value it seems to come alive and then lay over. (At the time of the KR). At those times I have seen the lead drop to single digits lead ( when the ignition meter was working).
the exhaust seems correct for what it is. 2.5" to a Cat then a resonant or then stock Y and 2.5" 2 chamber flomasters. There isn't any U bend or anything like that. It's slightly better than stock I would say. (But I thought that as well. The only way I know to measure it is to tap the exhaust. I could do this but I need a good reason to do this.)
its timing advance you want for the timing.
and o2 voltage for the o2 sensor, that would be bank one sensor one.
no idea wtf is going on with your kr. thats all over the place.
You have headers? I've seen flex pipe collapse on some, I think speed daddy. Maybe a bad cat, but I would think you would get a code. Sorry man, I feel your pain. I'm sure you'll get it figured out. Just try to get some good data with torque. Its a useful app. Helped me find a vac leak in my Toyota and gained me 4 mpg.Quote:
Originally Posted by J57ltr
I'm starting to wonder if there might be something wrong with the knock sensor wiring, or like you said, the knock sensor itself.
Right now it's stock manifolds but I'm going to get a set of headers soon. I am going to build my own exhaust out of 3". I have access to a fab shop where I work. But for now it has the minor exhaust mods and a 3.6" pulley (3.8" on the way)
Thanks man this is really getting me. I spoke with a buddy of mine who's the only mechanic I trust and he mentioned having issues with the knock sensor in his 8.1L truck and some others. I've heard of people adding Teflon tape to make it not quite so sensitive in years past. I also noticed some dynamat items for the transmission, but have no idea if it's snake oil.
now when I learned about knock sensors they are piezoelectric devices that create a voltage when flexed. These devices are tuned to a specific frequency which causes them to flex and produce an output. They also ignore most all other noises I know when cracked they can resonate at separate frequencies based on the size of each piece.
The exaust test is valid, but the exhaust is pretty loud so it's highly unlikely.
not surnewhat to try next got all the gauges I need.
i will take a look at the wiring for sure, but I noticed before I was pegged rich when at moderate throttle.
I am at a loss. Every since I added the GM plug in I have lost IAT, Timing, coolant temp, and a few others that I know are logged.
It's probably something simple but I can't figure it out. KR was about 2* today on a easy drive to the junkyard and back.
Jeff
Ok after some more talking nice to it and praising both the app I finally got some data. This is just from a drive from my house to pick up a can some things at the parts store. This is a 2 lane country blacktop road with a 45 mph speed limit which I drove leisury.
timing still will not read and is not green when selecting it. Driving out out of the neighborhood was around 2-4* when I accelerated up to 45mph Easily I saw the peak KR.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/...s/image_15.jpg
Lt and St
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/...s/image_14.jpg
Maf and Map
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/...s/image_13.jpg
Come on guys need some help here.
Alright this is getting crazy. Swapped in a bone stock 04' GTP PCM and drove it around last night after a 45 minute process of getting the relearn done. I put nearly 100 miles on it since last night and this is what I have for Fuel trims, they aren't any different from what I saw on the 05 PCM and they are about the same as what I saw on the 14' Impala I drove a few weeks ago.:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/J57ltr/LTFT.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/J57ltr/STFT.jpg
Still no boost.
I know this thread is dead but I wanted to comment for anyone else having this issue. 1st off, the 14 psi Reading is your barometer sensor. If you take your map sensor reading and subtract the barometer reading, that will tell you your boost. Negative numbers are vacuum, a positive number is boost.
2nd your problem is your mass air flow sensor or your catalytic converter is plugged up. I seen your screen shot of your mass air flow sensor when the motor was at I think 5000 rpm and it shows below 2,000 hz, which is about what it should read while the engine is idling. So either the mass air sensor is faulty or your catalytic converter is plugged. Motor can't suck air in if it can't push it out.. if I'm wrong please correct me so anyone seeing this thread can learn from your problem