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I only know the autolite brand by heart, so it would be a AL606 or AL605 plug. Whatever they have on hand. AL605 is like partly a step cooler and works just the same.
I don't remember the NGK numbers, but autolites are stupid cheap at like 1.50 a pop or something. I always remember paying like 12 bucks for 6 plugs, and drop the gap to like .050 to .055, the factory .060 gap always felt too big for running boost. (complete personal opinion there)
Thanks, that's one thing I do remember was reducing gap. we used the spin the snot out of the M90's in the 16k range.
I recommend taking just about all the s/c ford 3.8 knowledge from your past and lock it away. Keep researching and posting here with questions and these guys wont steer you in the wrong direction.
Ok, something else is going on besides KR. I installed a boost gauge just to see what I'm dealing with. I have had a few times today where the engine sputtered and lost power, this was driving normally not even getting to 10in/Hg. I drove about 100 miles today. I've noticed that the engine sputters (it only sputters when Im off the gas) then if I drop a gear to bring the revs up that after a few seconds it recovers and everything is fine.
I did get on it once and it hit 10psi, I let off immediately. I drove around a little and got on the freeway but didn't let it pass 5psi. The car seemed to be great,
I set the cruise to 70 played with the HUD and drove the 20 miles to my exit.
The exit is a drop to about 45 and then a overpass over a rail system. Then a light on the other side. I made the light and swung through the left hand turn as I straightened up the engine sputtered and my pucker factor was high as a Constable sat at the light waiting for me to sputter and finally it came back online.
So it's fine the rest of the way to the office and all the way back. Then I exit the freeway and as make the turn it sputters and dies, throw it in neutral and start it it sputtered and died again I was able to get it to run but as soon as i put it into gear it died. I rolled into an advance auto (closed) and shut it off let it sit for a few seconds. I restarted it and it seemed loaded with fuel. It cleared up and I drove it the rest of the way home. I pulled #5 to see what it looked like and it's brand new, maybe a little lean. Didn't mess with the others too hot.
It seems like the fuel pump is getting uncovered, but I have 3/4 tank. I had something like this happen before and it had something to do with the fuel pump piping internal to the tank.
Jeff
I wouldnt rule out a really dirty throttle body or a failing crank sensor here.
I was thinking TB as well, had that happen on our shop 06' F150 and was fairly common with them.
I got a P0069 MAP/Baro correlation error tonight. I checked the plumbing and everything is solid. I used a vacuum gauge and drew a vacuum on each section and no leaks.
I noticed a couple of times trying to merge into traffic it stumbled and the boost gauge wouldn't go above 0. I also noticed about a 2" section of really thin tubing leading to the bypass solenoid. and think it may be getting sucked shut at times.
I also got a feeze frame from my scanner that read as follows:
DTCFRZF P0069
Fuelsys1 OL
Fuelsys2 NA
Load_pct%. 0.0
ETC. 216f
Shrtft(%). 3.9
Longtft(%). -1.6
MAP(in/Hg). 18.3
RPM. 0.0
VSS (MPH). 0.0
Sparkadv (*). 8
IAT (f). 97
MAF lb/min. 0.000
TP%. 18.8
Egr PTC. 0.0
Egr_err. 0.0
There's a few more it was 8 pages 4 per page I think those are the most important.
I believe this as I was trying to get it started after stalling out.
Ok guys really need help here.
Driving around normally is even causing issues. Everything is fine and it seems when I slow like for a turn or just in traffic when start to take off it will stumble and sometimes dies other times it just stutters and if I drop it down into 2nd or 1st (depending on how slow Im going) to get the rpm's up I can apply throttle and it seems to work itself out. I've had it stall out in traffic and had a hell of a time getting it running again. It's like the fuel pump is failing. Then everything is good again.
Something I noticed while cleaning the TB was that when pushed fully closed it stuck. I figured the motor would easily be able to open it but I cleaned it and it didn't stick anymore. I don't think this had anything to do with it.
I went for a drive and I gave it gas, but my boost gauge stayed at -20inHg and would not increase. This tells me the throttle isn't opening all the way. Then I accelerated a little more and the boost gauge went to -10in easily. Then I took it a little harder and got to 5psi. I let off everything ran fine at that time. I cruised around on a several mile run at 45mph. At one point I let off and started to slowly accelerate and the car started sputtering again I pulled it down a gear and let it coast to "clear out", then it ran fine for the rest of the ride.
My boost gauge is T'd into the MAP sensor.
Thanks,
Jeff
DTC P0069
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The barometric pressure (BARO) sensor is a transducer that varies resistance according to changes in altitude and atmospheric conditions. This gives the powertrain control module (PCM) an indication the current of barometric pressure. The PCM uses this information to calculate fuel delivery. The BARO sensor has a 5-volt reference circuit, a low reference circuit, and a signal circuit. The PCM supplies 5 volts to the BARO sensor on a 5-volt reference circuit, and provides a ground on a low reference circuit. The BARO sensor provides a voltage signal to the PCM on a signal circuit relative to the pressure changes. The PCM compares the BARO sensor to the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor in order to monitor the BARO sensor operation. If the difference between the two sensors is more than a predetermined amount, DTC P0069 sets.
If that code is still there, I'd look into replacing the map or baro sensor.
Thank you for the information. Does anyone know the exact triggers that cause this code to come up? This is a new pcm system I'm learning.
I bought a new MAP, I checked the voltages the 5V ref. it was good. I think I was at 2.5 on signal on the MAP signal and 5V on thr Baro. Need to recheck again but thought that sounded right. I'll recheck at rest and at idle.
I'm waiting on my Bluetooth scanner to come in, hopefully it will give me more information.
I took it on a drive and down a long rarely used road I held it in first and rolled onto the throttle. The boost gauge wouldn't raise above -20 inHg, even to full throttle. I let off and the gauge stayed pretty much the same and I had no ignition (or fuel couldn't tell) I started feathering the gas and it would just sputter. I shifted up into 4th (D) and I feathered the gas and same thing.
Dropped it back to 2nd and slowly rolled the throttle and it responded. I eased it up again and it immediately moved to atmospheric (0), then goosed to to 5psi. I let off and the engine was still burbling as it should have and the gauge read about -23inHg. Shifted back into Drive and coasted to the stop coming up. Drove the rest of the way home no issues.
Jeff
What did you buy for a guage? Because that sounds more like a crappy gauge not reading on you. Does it feel like your making boost when you get on it?
Ok just went and measured the MAP and Baro sensors again
Baro:
Key on engine off.
Atmospheric 2.34V
Key on engine on. No change.
MAP:
Key on engine off.
Atmospheric 2.23V
Key on Engine on
.453V
Can't really see any boost. I used to have a jig for checking these things but junked it.
I'm Going to go ahead and change the MAP sonce i have it.
Jeff
Changed the MAP sensor with a Wells brand. The car didn't like that at all. I got onto the feeder and rolled onto the gas ans it would not go past 0. Then the DIC displayed Traction Control off and Reduced engine power. The engine idled but not much else, then it shut off. Coasted into a parking lot and couldn't get it to start. I would hit the start position, the starter would turn for a time period then stop. Did this several times. I turned the car off checked under the hood and forgot to connect the PCV return. I reconnected it and tried several more times. It would crank, run and die within 3 seconds. Changed back to the weigh all MAP sensor and then it started up and drove off. While checking codes I came up with a MAF code but figure that's because of the missing hose. Drove to return the Map sensor and buy some copper 606's seemed down on power the whole way there and back.
I can't wait till that scanner gets here
Jeff
It's a Bosch gauge it's mechanical. It does not seem like it's going into boost. Seems like the bypass is open then the next time I get it to go into boost and can feel a change in power.Quote:
Originally Posted by koRnhead
I checked on my code reader and it seems normal when it takes a snapshot
Baro= 29.8
Map= 21.3
Have other readings too if they'll help.
Jeff
Autolite 606's, no help. if you are reallly easy on it the car will drive. But if you even think of dipping the throttle it bogs. I would pull my codes again, but I locked my keys to my Park Ave inside said Park Ave, along with the reader. I was checking an issue with this car (misfire#3 and a Crank sensor error) and happened to have both hoods open at lunch and started changing plugs.
The plugs that came out of the GTP were in great shape, so I put them in the PA since they were fouled for some reason. Went to try and start the PA and discovered that the keys were still in the ignition....
Jeff
Dude that's horrible luck. Here's hoping you get it figured out sooner than later.
It's not a good day, still have half a tank and hope I get home. I am going to leave the PA here at work and get the keys later tonight. Anyway, I am leaning to the fuel pump being weak so I went ahead and ordered a Delphi pump from Rock Auto. Never ordered from them before hope it works out. I am going to get a Baro sensor this weekend as well, but I am wondering if all the bucking and improper running has caused the other errors to come up.
I will probably take part of next week off I have about 20 hours to burn before the 7th.
Jeff
What did you clean your throttle body with?
I'd be looking at a Maf. If the car has no clue what's it's getting for air, it would act lik that.
I used TB cleaner for the TB. I didn't clean under the gear housing there was a small amount of lithium grease on the gears and I deemed it sufficient.
I did put a brand new K&N air filter on it, didn't oil it, but I have some MAF cleaner and I'll clean it next.
I do notice that my outside temp for my HUD reads 105f, has read as high as 149 and as low as 85. The symptoms lasted at all temps.
Thanks
jeff
Back from getting my keys and putting the PA away.
Well I cleaned the MAF and it runs better. I didn't feel like it was going to die out. I eased into it a few times and got to 5psi. Then cruised for a minute and took it to about 7-8 psi and to be honest it's not but about half throttle. The pulley is way too small. I think there are a few things going on.
MAF was dirty.
Baro sensor may have an issue.
I think that the loss of boost on some occasions is due to belt slippage.
(This is what I think may be going on)
The other anomalies such as no manifold pressure above 0 and vacuum readings at full throttle are due to the computer keeping the engine safe by limiting all boost by the solenoid for the bypass valve, and also by limiting throttle opening to reduce power even more.
Jeff
Finally able to get a OBD reader that works (BAFX) and here's what I have.
P0131 O2 sensor low
this is the first time I have gotten this code. The 14psi is a little concerning seems a little high even for a 05 with a 3.6" pulley and I have never seen pressure this high on the gauge. I will have to play with it and search the forum a little more as I'm sure someone has already asked what i'm looking for. Mainly how to read KR I didn't see it in the menu. I can tell my timing is retarded and I did see the O2 voltage drop several times. I just had the car parked at the airport since Monday. I drove it home pretty easy and used cruise control most of the way. I saw the same thing from the boost gauge (rises to 5psi then drops to 0). It's a 20 mile drive from the airport so the engine had been run about 30 minutes and I idled in the driveway for about 20 minutes while setting the reader up. To me the exhaust would really have to be restricted to get pressure that high. But it doesn't match the gauge at all. Then the vacuum seemed lower at about 14-16" vs the gauges 18-20".
Jeff
Engine load 100%
Coolant temp 204.8
STFT1 0%
LTFT1 .78%
intake pressure 14.65 psi (3.6")
MAF 1,900.749 cfm?
rpm 5069.75
speed 44.12 mph
Timing 11.5*
IAT 125,6 F
load (absolute) 56.47%
Lamda .77
relative throttle pos 96.86%
ambient temp 131F (this shows off all the time usually 105f but as high as 169f)
Absolute throttle pos. 100% for all B,D,E