Thread: Top Swap having horrible idle, no power on throttle

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

you need to fix that exhaust leak. drill the old broken stud out and put new bolts and nuts on there. a leak there can cause it run poorly.

you really should have headers, or at least a 3 inch down pipe and a plog.

if you have a droid phone get the toque app, and the obd2 blue tooth scanner, app is 5 bucks, the blue tooth obd2 is like 10 bucks off ebay. it will scan more live data then you can shake a stick at.

I have the 3" dp but no plog. I'll get on that exhaust leak tomorrow. Can I use old rocker arm bolts there?

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

you need to do another vid. when you unplug the maf, you do it car off. then fire it up. same for plugging it back in, do that car off.

Alright I'll do that right now.

Yeah you really need a way to scan, and you have to fix one thing at a time. It's hard to diagnose one thing when other things aren't right. Start with fixing things you know are messed up, and go from there. So your xover isn't bolted to the rear manifold at all? It's just sitting there? I wouldn't trust an AZ maf sensor either, that sucks it cost $180.

If it'll get you to work with the maf unplugged, do it. You gotta get to work, and that alone won't hurt anything if you just take it easy.

What code do you have that's setting your SES light?

Originally Posted by 99GT2dr

Yeah you really need a way to scan, and you have to fix one thing at a time. It's hard to diagnose one thing when other things aren't right. Start with fixing things you know are messed up, and go from there. So your xover isn't bolted to the rear manifold at all? It's just sitting there? I wouldn't trust an AZ maf sensor either, that sucks it cost $180.

If it'll get you to work with the maf unplugged, do it. You gotta get to work, and that alone won't hurt anything if you just take it easy.

What code do you have that's setting your SES light?

Nope it's not bolted to the rear manifold at all. The front manifold it bolted to the crossover but both bolts in the back to the rear manifold broke off.

Ok you gotta get on that asap, that's a pretty big pre-02 sensor exhaust leak. That's why it runs good when you first start it up, it's in open loop not using readings from the 02 sensor. Same with the maf sensor unplugged I believe, it runs strictly off the VE table ignoring 02 values.

How did those bolts get broken? Shouldn't have needed to pull the xover for any reason I can think of.

Originally Posted by 99GT2dr

Ok you gotta get on that asap, that's a pretty big pre-02 sensor exhaust leak. That's why it runs good when you first start it up, it's in open loop not using readings from the 02 sensor. Same with the maf sensor unplugged I believe, it runs strictly off the VE table ignoring 02 values.

How did those bolts get broken? Shouldn't have needed to pull the xover for any reason I can think of.

I had to pull the crossover off when I was removing the old l36 heads. Other wise I wouldn't of been able to get the manifolds off of the heads. I'll get that fixed ASAP.

Now the question is can you return the $180 maf sensor you bought at AZ? I hope so, or at least get a credit to put toward other stuff.

Originally Posted by 99GT2dr

Now the question is can you return the $180 maf sensor you bought at AZ? I hope so, or at least get a credit to put toward other stuff.

Yeah I returned it lol. As soon as I saw it didn't help anything I ran back and got a refund.

So as of now are we betting on it being the o2 sensor getting bad readings due to the exhaust leak? And what do ya'll think about the TB to SC situation. Vac leak? or just gasket absorbing what I spray on it?

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

use what ever bolts you got that will fit.

and the tb vac line, thats routed to the right place. i guess you used the old line off the n/a tb. if that fat hose there is leaking not tight, cracked, it can cause that surging, and could be whats leaking when you spray the tb area.

you can get a new fat line, like 3 inches long, then take the new vac line from the evap solenoid., and push it inside the fat line.

this is how i fixed my fat line when it cracked on me. fat hose to normal vac line to the hard line. on a sc car, the evap lives on the rear of the engine on that bracket you posted a few weeks back.

The rpms only go up when I spray right where the TB meets the SC. I replaced the gasket with the brand new one and it still did it. I'm kind of thinking that it just soaks into the gasket and then gets in there? I mean, it's a brand new gasket, and torqued down to specs and then some. I could go all around the gasket with some Blue RTV i have if you think that's neccesary. Also, I used MAF cleaner instead of Carb cleaner. I didn't have any carb cleaner so I figured MAF would be okay to use since it's less aggressive. My EVAP is still at the front of the car, same place it was at before the swap.

also here is the new youtube vid. took a while to upload. Thanks for all the help guys, I really appreciate it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JfS7...ature=youtu.be

Ah, gotcha, forgot you had to pull the heads. Was thinking you just went down to lim ssm90 style for some reason.

To avoid breaking bolts like that in the future, use plenty of lube (pb blaster), and work it back and forth, don't just keep cranking on it. I'll loosen 1/2 turn, then tghten 1/4, spray, and keep working it like that. You can feel it when starts to get too hard to turn, that's when you go the other way a bit and spray. Sometimes it's unavoidable, but I rarely break any bolts using that method. Living in TX also helps, we only use salt on our food, not our roads, lol.

Originally Posted by 99GT2dr

Ah, gotcha, forgot you had to pull the heads. Was thinking you just went down to lim ssm90 style for some reason.

To avoid breaking bolts like that in the future, use plenty of lube (pb blaster), and work it back and forth, don't just keep cranking on it. I'll loosen 1/2 turn, then tghten 1/4, spray, and keep working it like that. You can feel it when starts to get too hard to turn, that's when you go the other way a bit and spray. Sometimes it's unavoidable, but I rarely break any bolts using that method. Living in TX also helps, we only use salt on our food, not our roads, lol.

Yeah those were the only 2 that broke. I used A LOT of WD40 for 3 days, every day, before the swap on all those bolts down there and they still broke. I'm in NM, so we don't have a salt problem either. hahah

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

my bet is on the fat hose is loose or cracked off the side of the TB. no way anything should be getting sucked in via a gasket.

fix that exhaust leak, i bet it runs so much better.

Hmm. So when I spray where the TB meets the SC some vapor is just getting into the fat hose if it's loose or cracked? I'll see If i can drill out those bolts tomorrow and get it all sealed up.

Pb > WD all day long. I mean WD is better than nothing, though.