could i just weld the top of the egr valve shut so it thinks its still working but not going into the s/c?
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could i just weld the top of the egr valve shut so it thinks its still working but not going into the s/c?
you could also just pull the plug off it too so the computer cant turn it on and off.
either way with the EGR i think youre going to need a tuner to actually get rid of it. it does clean up the engine bay a lot though.
i will eventually get it tuned out. so just plug the holes and weld the header shut? will removing that and getting new headers need a major tune to run or should i have much of a problem? ie loss of power/drivability
nope, the EGR just gives you better gas mileage when you are cruising. any other time it is closed and it doesnt matter. i didnt really lose any MPG from taking it off, but then again my car never did get good mileage.
i would cut the little end flanges off the ends of the tubes and then you can either weld those holes shut and rebolt them on or do what i did and RTV some coins in the holes. Mine hasnt leaked as of yet. i think i used a quarter and a nickel.
just to add to my progress..
SWEET AWESOME DIRTY ENGINE BAY!
http://i520.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture051.jpg
SWEET OPEN CONE!
http://i520.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture052.jpg
DEVILS OWN 150 PSI PUMP! MOUNTED!!
http://i520.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture053.jpg
THE SWEET TANK I BOUGHT FOR THE ALKY/METH!
http://i520.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture056.jpg
OH ****! ARE THOSE COBRA RIMS?! 17x9? NO WAY!
http://i520.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture054.jpg
my bro has those same rims. are they offset?? i think his fronts are 245's and the rears 275's
nope, not offset. all 17x9 with a +24mm offset. i was planning on putting 255s on them.
nice. there good looking wheels
that should look sweet.
im looking for the 17x8 99 and 01 style silver painted cobra wheels for mine.
also, i think we may have the same leather desk chair, haha
yeah, i was looking for a set of those because i think they look a little nicer with the minimal dish they have, but i ended up finding these so i cant complain.
what is the temperature rating on the epoxy you used? Is it machinable? I have been looking for a decent epoxy to seal the ports with for a while and the only decent thing i have found is 1000 degree aluminum epoxy. I wouldn't even think of welding the slits shut since its cast aluminum and can warp/drop out way too easily for my comfort
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2kblackgtp
Why do you think a weld can ''pop out'' but epoxy can't?
If welded corectly a weld is much stronger than the metal it is welded to. And also if done correctly under extreame load bearing conditions a weld will also never break or crack but instead it will break or crack right next to the weld.
Just some info for you.
im not sure what the epoxy temp range is, but im not too worried because if the blower temp ever goes above 400 *F then there is something wrong. it is machineable, i was able to easily cut it down with a die grinder. it is easier to grind off then the actual blower case.
if it drops out then oh well, i get to rebuild my bottom end again (with a cam). other people have done RTV and it has holded, so i trust that this will stay put.
Why did you use a internal nozzle instead of a External nozzle?
just wondering
I gotta say I love my alky kit with my blower.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TDCRacing
because i bought the kit from some guy who bought it and then didnt want to use it. brand new kit for cheaper than buying it new.
it came with the internal nozzle, so i used it. im not one to just buy parts that i dont need.
whomever is sealing their silencing slot will not be dissapointed! it sounds amazing!!! probably 2x as loud. i have not taken the car on the street for WOT but just a rev in the garage was enough!!! i will post a vid 2morrow when i get home from school!
nice.
holy crap, that is on a stock pulley? SWEET! i cant wait to put mine on.