Hinson Heads ___S3x___or S2x? What Timing setup?

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Originally Posted by Turbocharged400sbc

that depends on where the crank gear ends up during the test fit after the chamfer and the corner getting squared up on the recess.

as long as the recess depth is not changed....most Cam motion (intense) fit at .024-.030 and the comp cams at .022-.026 off the backside of the gear.
make sure the gear is fully deburred (the alignment dimple keeps it from sitting flat on a lathe/surface grinder.

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Do you perform this Turbocharged400sbc ? Your inbox is full so I cannot Pm as I have tried to before. My email is mechanic860@comcast.net if need be.

If not do I just tell someone who can that I need to remove .022? Then I will be better off than how it comes In the package?

I received my XP and Double Rollmaster today. I have heard that the cam vs cam gear is a press fit. As pictured below this is just putting it on by hand. Does this also have to be addressed machining wise? Or is a press fit 100% needed? I know stock is not.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psd20bb4b2.png

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps00edf68f.png

If you want perfection, install them both (crank & cam gears) and then measure the difference off of the block face. Then have em cut to eliminate any difference. I think mine were about .007 off, something I'm more than willing to deal with, lolz...

ive seen too much variance to do anything other than custom fit.

i cant really suggest anything other than custom fit. your looking at endplay variances between the cam and crank, tolerance stacking is a pita

the cam snout is larger od as it nears the shoulder yes its press, the cam and crank gears could benifit from crocus clothing as the keyway cutting has deformed them to a degree, thankfully the cam gear keyway deformation is removed when its cut or ground down.
the crank has a ton of work. i spend 15+ minutes with crocus cloth on them bastards and they are still a pita to install, install without cleanup and TIR is variable.

then you have to go through and deburr all the teeth with a needle file to get the sharp edges left from hobbing the teeth. do this and the chain and gears install easier as the chain isnt so bloody tight. probably increases chain life

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Originally Posted by Turbocharged400sbc

ive seen too much variance to do anything other than custom fit.

i cant really suggest anything other than custom fit. your looking at endplay variances between the cam and crank, tolerance stacking is a pita

the cam snout is larger od as it nears the shoulder yes its press, the cam and crank gears could benifit from crocus clothing as the keyway cutting has deformed them to a degree, thankfully the cam gear keyway deformation is removed when its cut or ground down.
the crank has a ton of work. i spend 15+ minutes with crocus cloth on them bastards and they are still a pita to install, install without cleanup and TIR is variable.

then you have to go through and deburr all the teeth with a needle file to get the sharp edges left from hobbing the teeth. do this and the chain and gears install easier as the chain isnt so bloody tight. probably increases chain life

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Hey btw, did you have a chance to clear your inbox yet? I sent ya a PM

You shouldn't need much off the cam gear at all or if at all, the crank is the most important.

Years ago before we discovered this, in my own engine, I twice had to fix the cam retainer plate being cracked and had to fix the cam and this was all because the cam was being pulled forward by the chain to try and align the two gears.

Once machined, use a straight edge to line up the gears and ensure that the cam has play back and forth from that position, and if so you should be fine.

You also don't need a machined oil pump cover once the crank gear is fixed.

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Originally Posted by Turbocharged400sbc

ive seen too much variance to do anything other than custom fit.

i cant really suggest anything other than custom fit. your looking at endplay variances between the cam and crank, tolerance stacking is a pita

the cam snout is larger od as it nears the shoulder yes its press, the cam and crank gears could benifit from crocus clothing as the keyway cutting has deformed them to a degree, thankfully the cam gear keyway deformation is removed when its cut or ground down.
the crank has a ton of work. i spend 15+ minutes with crocus cloth on them bastards and they are still a pita to install, install without cleanup and TIR is variable.

then you have to go through and deburr all the teeth with a needle file to get the sharp edges left from hobbing the teeth. do this and the chain and gears install easier as the chain isnt so bloody tight. probably increases chain life

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Thank you for the info.

Will it be a bad idea to have the cam gear inner machined a tad so it is not a pressed fit to the cam?

Do you still perform this work? If not I found another on here that can.


My machine shop wants the Rockwell hardness before even attempting the chamfer on the crank gear.

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Originally Posted by Overkill

You shouldn't need much off the cam gear at all or if at all, the crank is the most important.

Years ago before we discovered this, in my own engine, I twice had to fix the cam retainer plate being cracked and had to fix the cam and this was all because the cam was being pulled forward by the chain to try and align the two gears.

Once machined, use a straight edge to line up the gears and ensure that the cam has play back and forth from that position, and if so you should be fine.

You also don't need a machined oil pump cover once the crank gear is fixed.

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Thank you for the info.

here is some pics comparing, you can see what i had done on my crank gear. Basicly you need to match the chamfer on the back so the gear can slide on fully. Also the lip above that has to be squared out.

Edit: also DO NOT machine anything cam gear

Here is how it comes
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/h...ps11cdba09.jpg

Here is it machined
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/h...pshiztkwwz.jpg

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Originally Posted by Ginseng

here is some pics comparing, you can see what i had done on my crank gear. Basicly you need to match the chamfer on the back so the gear can slide on fully. Also the lip above that has to be squared out.

Edit: also DO NOT machine anything cam gear

Here is how it comes
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/h...ps11cdba09.jpg

Here is it machined
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/h...pshiztkwwz.jpg

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I see your in MA and I am in NH. What shop did this for you?

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Originally Posted by PWNED

I see your in MA and I am in NH. What shop did this for you?

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Pk Machine in fitchburg,ma

Edit: Any machine shop can do it. Just buy a crank gear from any auto parts store to compare it to and then return it after.

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Originally Posted by Ginseng

Pk Machine in fitchburg,ma

Edit: Any machine shop can do it. Just buy a crank gear from any auto parts store to compare it to and then return it after.

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My local machine shop wants the Rockwell hardness before even attempting to perform this for me. I have a stock crank gear off my spare motor anyway.

only the chain teeth of the crank sprocket are induction hardened and it barely gets to the shoulder pocket

ive always used a non radiused <90* carbide cutter

for the tiny amount your removing id bet even HSS would work, i know it does on the keyway section since its more durable than carbide at interupted cuts

Considering stock cam gear just slides on and off would it be bad if the rollmaster did the same? I was searching a while back and came across someone saying that he was comparing a few setups and some were snugger/looser than others. I believe the word JP came up and it slid right on.

I know mine was so tight I would have had to hammer it on. I took a file to clean up all the burs from machining and even had to use a cross buff to the inside diameter to enlarge it just a c-hair to get it to slide onto the crank with minimal resistance, where as the stock factory one just goes on with one finger

My crank gear is the same way. I cannot get it to go on. Rather send it out to get chamfered first.