You can go fast with less if you gut the car to a rolling crap box, aka ruin it.
Plus if you wanna go fast and somewhat more reliably, gotta fork over some $$ for some hard parts.
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You can go fast with less if you gut the car to a rolling crap box, aka ruin it.
Plus if you wanna go fast and somewhat more reliably, gotta fork over some $$ for some hard parts.
cheap fast reliable can only pick 2 as the saying goes......
max effort sc cars will always interest me.
and always be the slowest of the bunch!
im no where near max effort lol
then again i dont ***** foot around in my car either so yeah sh1t breaks.......
pretty close
Zach ran 10's in his slowest of the bunch SC car.
It was also a shell, with pin down hood, no exhaust and all that.Quote:
Originally Posted by blueguy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o58T-KIArZY
Not that being a roll shell of a car is a bad thing, but a detail that needs mentioned.
Once you get under 3000lbs magic starts to happen. Sean drove the family around and what not in it at times, so
didn't want to have a full drag car setup. Doing so ment, he was stuck in the mid 11s for the most part. He didn't
even run a cutout or drop the exhaust. So much left in it before he retired it :(
Weight reduction does wonders.
It does on any platform LOL...
But yeah, that car was a balls to wall mess that ran its junk off.
It has worked well for me on my heap. Once launching and anti-lag figured out, could hit higher 10s on 15 psi.Quote:
Originally Posted by blueguy
Car sits around 3000-3050 probably without driver.
But sometimes people "forget" details like that, and idea gets in peoples heads they can run 10s too with similar mechanical mods,
but don't do the weight reduction and get pissed they have to do much more mods or run much more boost, ect to get same results as
someone else.
considering the price of unobtanium lexan windows maybe next if i can do the whole car for 1200 ish..... that and its already a hacked up shell. i really dont want to spend the cash on a 1 inch chain and torsen diff at least not until things start to break....
besides ive send gmrbadass just about all i can for a while and the lucrative pay is about to come to an end around feb. unless i get on an afghanistan rotation.
Optic Armour has the glass @ http://www.opticarmorwindows.com/app...cturer=Pontiac
I am purchasing a complete kit, but may not use the door glass. As they dont recommend to use power windows.
ill work something out for the side windows if your not using them. im pretty sure i still have the pm from before about doing the whole car in lexan from you. if i could get the whole car done and save even 50-60 pounds id be happy.
Ill let ya know. I am gonna order it here soon if my fun funds come in next week. Gonna inspect them when they come in to see if worth doing the doors or not.. if not, ill sell em off.Quote:
Originally Posted by 98FvckingCrazyVet
sounds good. you have a mega trans so i might as well take those off your hands lol
:) ... ya with mega trans of doom in the works for the good part of the past year... I am hoping I can keep a few luxury things like power windows due to the gainsQuote:
Originally Posted by 98FvckingCrazyVet
from the trans alone. I plan on having majority of the interior back in the car. carpet, passenger seat and center console. Make it look almost stockish as possible to the untrained eye
without popping the hood :)
lol i smell some butt hurt for whoever is in the next lane.........
I am hoping. Trans brake I hope will fix problem of waiting so long on the line. Its a pain to stage currently. If can figure out a 2step, then make it 100x easier.Quote:
Originally Posted by 98FvckingCrazyVet
I wanna leave right on the light to get good runs vs the other guy.. as I'll run quicker times then other guy.. but I take off 3-4 seconds after the other person does.
It is fun when guys I run come to check it out. They got the end before me.. but my ET was way better. They usually get a kick out of the setup.
hell yeah if the speed is there just need to lock down the launch. why dont you just hit it with a 75 shot out of the hole? and are you using a progressive boost controller or just wastegate spring?
No shot yet as the T67 really doesn't have problem with spooling. I got it down to 1.5x 60 foots at yocal track with no glue after it rained right before track opened.Quote:
Originally Posted by 98FvckingCrazyVet
I am sure i could nail it down to 1.4x on a good track day.
With the pcm based anti lag that PRJ got me going on, I am at 100% throttle for a moment before letting off the brake. For the 1.5x 60 foots I am around 10psi at launch. And target boost hits pretty quickly.
I have a HKS boost controller with a 7psi spring. Ive played with boost maps to limit boost off the line as much as possible.
It doesnt have gear boost which would possibly help, but to be honest, my best 60s was with that part disabled. And Just use it for controlling my target boost is all.
With the PTE 7675 cea ball bearing turbo I have on there now to have for 2015 season, I may want to revisit the 50-75 shot idea :) .. Dave thinks it won't be a problem since ball bearing setup should help a ton and transbrake setup helping too... will see first time out there without a shot and then see if needed or not.
< btw, sorry OP for taking over thread >
well the hell with out of the hole back half shot then lol!!
alot i can learn from you and all the other turbo guys.