pulley mod requirments

[tigers40]

hey guys

so im looking at getting a smaller pulley for my supercharger i have a 98 gtp and im just checking on here to see what all additional mods i would need for different sizes because i have found alot of different answers on the internet. im just looking at a 3.4 and 3.35 the zzp website recommends their pcm tstat and colder plugs and for the nothing about the 3.35 on the website though. is it possible to put on the 3.35 with the same mods needed for the 3.4? and do i need all the mods right away? or will everything run just fine without them for a while?

[Bio248]

the difference between a 3.4 and 3.35 would make them useless to have both.

[BillBoost37]

Please stop listening to ZZP's site. It's outdated and very wrong. Please read the safely modding your car thread on this site.

Thanks

[tomtom123]

http://www.grandprixforums.net/showthread.php?t=67580

Read this about 2 times and you should have a pretty good idea =)

I read it a few times as well. Good info

[dsmuts]

If you're wanting a 3.4 you'll need at least headers.

[hensleya1]

hey guys

so im looking at getting a smaller pulley for my supercharger i have a 98 gtp and im just checking on here to see what all additional mods i would need for different sizes because i have found alot of different answers on the internet. im just looking at a 3.4 and 3.35 the zzp website recommends their pcm tstat and colder plugs and for the nothing about the 3.35 on the website though. is it possible to put on the 3.35 with the same mods needed for the 3.4? and do i need all the mods right away? or will everything run just fine without them for a while?

1. Get a scanner. Aeroforce, ScanGauge, Torque App, etc. Scan for KR - knock retard. It happens when the computer senses the engine is pinging (the fuel is predetonating) and yanks timing to compensate. It works, but there's two limitations... first, it kills power, and second, to yank timing there must have been knock in the first place. Not good. When the piston is moving down, and the explosion is going up... the explosion wins every time. Chipping a piston means its time for a new motor.

2. Most cars have a couple degrees of KR in stock form, and that's only when they make about 6# of boost. Don't pulley down without at least a downpipe, or for a 3.4, headers and a tune. Any less is inviting a motor swap. I had KR with a downpipe and 1.9 rockers on a 3.5 pulley. Speed daddy headers are like $200. Do supporting mods first, then pulley down.

3. After headers, then pulley down to the 3.4 or 3.5 range... and get it tuned pronto. A canned tune (Intense, ZZP, etc.) will work at this point but an in-car or dyno tune would be best.

[jayroca]

1. Get a scanner. Aeroforce, ScanGauge, Torque App, etc. Scan for KR - knock retard. It happens when the computer senses the engine is pinging (the fuel is predetonating) and yanks timing to compensate. It works, but there's two limitations... first, it kills power, and second, to yank timing there must have been knock in the first place. Not good. When the piston is moving down, and the explosion is going up... the explosion wins every time. Chipping a piston means its time for a new motor.

2. Most cars have a couple degrees of KR in stock form, and that's only when they make about 6# of boost. Don't pulley down without at least a downpipe, or for a 3.4, headers and a tune. Any less is inviting a motor swap. I had KR with a downpipe and 1.9 rockers on a 3.5 pulley. Speed daddy headers are like $200. Do supporting mods first, then pulley down.

3. After headers, then pulley down to the 3.4 or 3.5 range... and get it tuned pronto. A canned tune (Intense, ZZP, etc.) will work at this point but an in-car or dyno tune would be best.

This.

Tune will make or break your car.. it will make a fast car slow and a slow car fast


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[Impala131]

Completely agree with the above. Every car is different.

With headers, AL104's, 180t-stat (mostly placebo mod anyway) and a 3.5 pulley my car still had KR on the stock tune.

I bought HPT used from a member on the forums, scanned and tuned myself. Now I have different tunes for running 3.6 , 3.5 , 3.4 safely, and have the opportunity to change boost, timing, AFR, etc. to experiment with all different combinations without blowing up the motor.

If I had just thrown a 3.4 on without scanning, even though the internet said I was perfectly safe, I probably would have destroyed my motor.

[blueguy]

Has someone suggested a 2.8 yet?