Thread: SLP Header Installed

Originally Posted by crashman

Do ya have ANY words of wisdom & wit for your header installation??
I've got a set of SLP headers that I'm itchin' to put in. Got any tips??

None really unless you have fat forearms like i do...
then roll up them sleves

Losen up the front header first, then remove the dog bones
and roll the motor forward, Tie it forward to the front suport

If you are not sure of the fireing order then before you remove the plugs
tape them were they go.

They were pretty easy to install, and my only hard part was cutting the
pipe after the flex and installing the new flex...
I did go down to my local shop to put it up on the hoist
but that was because it was raining and $50.00 bucks compared
to laying on the ground in the cold and rain---> = $50.00 bucks
well spent
I was at first thinking i would have to remove the TB and such
but you will see as you go it is not that bad at all...

I'd like to hear how these plugs do...but honestly, I'll pay 10 bucks every 3 months for new AL 103's copper. Cheap to replace if you ask me and they do the job.

About your autotap, I can get all those paramaters, but you don't need to run all of those. There is a lot of paramaters you can delete. I run about 9-10 parameters at a time. The less the better as you get more accurate data at a better rate. With all those paramaters, the time it takes get the new data takes a long time. Check your time stamps to see what I mean.

Yes i know i belive that is what it is
unles you chose to go to advanced settings
as i did to take a good look at every thing..

I open them all to make sure i was not over looking something
thanks for the info..

John

I am compareing gas milage now
and will over the rest of this month keep
a close eye on gas and distance...
As for the performance car is very smooth...

John

Originally Posted by J_Ferguson

That is to bad..
I hate that when companys
will not answer questions or responces..
I'm going to give them a call also..

Thanks John

I think I'm going to call them. I like the idea of silver plugs because of their electrical and thermal properties. Of cousre copper has better properties than iridium and the iridiums seem to be a better plug for my car.
I'm going to call Brisk later today and find out why they recommended a non resistor plug for my car. Since I am a sparkplugaholic, I almost have to try something they offer in a silver.

Originally Posted by IndeedSS

Since I am a sparkplugaholic, I almost have to try something they offer in a silver.

You and I have something in common. I try just about all of them that come out. The most recent ones I tried were E3 plugs. I cant say they got a good test because one of the plugs failed on me. It shorted out which I dont think I have ever seen a plug do, but it shorted out internally.

Well is way to soon to be saying this,
But i have had the plugs in since Thursday
and i am still very much impressed....
Our gas milage around town has improved..
we were getting 21 to 22--- is is now holding at 25
for city driving.
Hwy driving was at 28 to 31 and now is 35.8
Traffic pendending...
The motor once it warms up is just awsome
and very smooth and can still feel the difference
in the power..

But like i said is still to early to be making judgement calls

Well if nothing else, early indications are good. My experience has been that spark plugs will show you something right away or they wont. Ive never tried a set that once put in, failed to show improvement until days or weeks later. You usually know right away.

That said, I agree that over time comparison will be the ultimate story. But so far you are talking about a 10 - 15% increase, which I picked up nearly that much by switching the car over completely to synthetic lubricants. Keep us posted, good information so far.

Originally Posted by J_Ferguson

Well is way to soon to be saying this,
But i have had the plugs in since Thursday
and i am still very much impressed....
Our gas milage around town has improved..
we were getting 21 to 22--- is is now holding at 25
for city driving.
Hwy driving was at 28 to 31 and now is 35.8
Traffic pendending...
The motor once it warms up is just awsome
and very smooth and can still feel the difference
in the power..

But like i said is still to early to be making judgement calls

That is a great initial review. I wished I could run that type of plug. We shall see what they tell me over the phone later today, as I only want to buy the right Brisk plug for my mod level. Heck I'm excited for you.

Update on my Brisk search. I spoke with someone at Brisk a few minutes ago. He confirmed that only a stock or mildly modded car should use the LGS series plugs. The reason behind this is that on a boosted or higher compression vehicle, with the plug gap on the LGS not being adjustable, it is too wide and the center electrode will arch to the resistor burning it out. Weird, I never considered my car as anything but mildly modded.

The gentleman I spoke to today also told me to run the G14YS. He said the silver racing plugs were the ones that tested to improve HP by 4 and not the LGS. However, he is looking into the recommended plugs not being a resistor plug. He or the initial person I emailed on Friday will call me back after noon today with more information. The madness continues.

Originally Posted by IndeedSS

Weird, I never considered my car as anything but mildly modded.

Lee,

Personally I think your car is a "bit more" than mildly modded. When I have seen the words mildly modded, it was in association with Catback exhaust, CIA, Cooler Stat, etc.

But you sir have the Cam, Togs and all the ported goodies on top of that

I think you fall into that "highly" modded category

Hmmm and I didn't consider air intake and DP as modded really. See, I would call an all out race only and not very streetable car as highly modded. But evidently I'm wrong.

I think I found the Brisk plugs for my car. GR14S. Silver racing, resistor, with a cutback electrode. Just waiting for confirmation and then...it's time to feed the addiction.

Yeah I would have to agree, you sir are more than mildly modded. Actually I wish I would have took a look under the hood and had a listen to it while you were out at my house.

Got a call from Brisk.

They said they have had no problems with with their G14YS plug causing interference eventhough it is not a resistor plug.

If you are concerned about this you can go with a GR14S

The GR14S (not projected insulator tip) is for higher HP applications as compared to the G14YS (projected insulator tip).

Is that G14YS the same style of plug that Jay posted pictures of? I want to make sure I get the right ones and Im running one range colder (AL 605's).

No that plug he posted was for NA or stock to mildly modded engine.
check out this to get a look at what they have and the difference.
Brisk USA Enterprises, LLC and then www.briskracing.com for ordering. He posted the LGS series but the Silver racing plug is what Brisk recommends for some even at my level of mods.

I just ordered the GR14S silver racing plugs. I just didn't trust the fact that they say no one has had a problem running non resistor plugs or I would have gone with the G14YS. Both are plugs replace the NGK 6 and 7 temp range and are most popular with the Lightning, Cobra and GTO.

Well crap, the LGS series is what I wanted to run.

Originally Posted by SyntheticShield

Well crap, the LGS series is what I wanted to run.

Me to. They did say I MAY be able to run the GOR14LGS but that they wouldn't last very long and the spark could possibly be blown out. I'm not will to try those. But I'm willing to see if the silver racing plugs make a difference. I have my doubts, because copper is supposed to be so much better than iridium but results don't seem to back this up.