Thread: Rod Knock?

To make a long story short my 2000 Gtp would start running rough and throw a flashing check engine light only after you would start it up and drive it when it was warm (for example I would drive it home from work for lunch and then thirty minutes later I would go out to start it and it would run junky). However on cold starts it would run just fine. So I decide to park it until I can order LIM gaskets (the car had pools of oil in the intake manifold "valleys"). My mom apparently decided she wanted to drive the car after I advised her not to. So I came home from work and my mom tells me she drove the car three times and that each time she drove it it ran like junk cold or not. Since that day no one had driven the car.

Well today I finish the LIM job. I went ahead and changed the oil and filter and put some coolant in it and decided to start it up. It ran ok for three seconds and then started making a knocking sound coming from what sounds like the passenger front side of the engine. So initial thought is maybe the supercharger coupler went out while it was sitting or something so I removed all the belts and started it again. Still same sound. I guess what I'm trying to ask is, does it seem possible that it threw a rod? When I drained the oil for that first start there were no metal shavings or anything in the oil and I did not see any traces of coolant either.

Where do I start? Would be a shame to throw the car away based in the premise of a possible thrown rod especially since the PO had a new tranny, steering rack, half shafts, struts, and other odds and ends replaced including tires, plus the car is pretty clean rust wise as well.

Oh and this one has NO mods.....not even a cai.

Alrighty then spun bearing. No holes as of yet. If I cant get a video I will just check the oil condition

If its anything like this our problem was a plugged lifter. After it sat for 6 months the sound went away.

You did a LIM.. hows' the plugs and wires? Are you sure you put the wires in the right order?

The wires appear to be fine. I'll have to give the plugs a look when I get off work.

Alright well the car stopped making the noise so I finally felt comfortable with letting it warm up so that I could top off the coolant and burn off whatever spilled on the engine. Car died on me three times while warming up but finally got to the point where it was warm so I took it to get scanned for codes.
P0203- Cylinder 3 Injector "A" Circuit
P0121- Throttle Position sensor Performance
P0101- MAF sensor Performance
P0507- Idle Speed High
Car likes to fluctuate in idle and stumble and sometimes it likes to run smooth. Also likes to try and die when coming to stops or putting it in gear.

Oh and like an idiot I completely forgot to get a new vacuum line to run from the MAP sensor to the supercharger "T" to the fuel pressure regulator because somehow I completely lost mine so right now there is nothing there. Could that alone be causing all my issues?

the missing vac line will cause it to idle like crap, stall yes. run poorly, yes.

the best vac T's ive found were at advance auto, 2 came in a pack for 2 bucks, 2 small white t's, 3 feet for vac line and you should be good to go from the boost bypass vavle to the fpr (new T on that too) then to the port under the snout, then to the map sensor.

Alright. I got it hooked up now with some vac line of a jy car and it definitely doesnt stall anymore but I can still feel it missing. Probably has something to do with that 3rd injector code...

Which one is the #3 injector?

It's on the front bank, middle cylinder.

Alrighty yeah its plugged in all the way. Possible bad injector? The car was missing before doing the LIM too.

You still do tuning right GTPpower?