Thread: Spun Bearing or Chipped Pistion either way Hole in Block. FIXED PICS OF PISTON

Well last week a was trying out my new overkill pcm did some WOT runs and in between 2nd nd 3rd Piston #1 decided to either spin bearing and part of the shrapnel made a hole in the block or the piston chipped and put a hole in block. Either way ive been looking for an engine found a l67 with 89k for a reasonable price. So my main question is whats my next step? I can get this l67 or should I get an L32 and get a TB adapter? Will the L32 bolt right on the the HD trans without any problems?

Thanks for any help.

Blocks are the same, so no problems bolting up.

You can run a L32 and just get a TB adpater to run the GEN V or you can just swap you lim/sc over and make it a direct swap. Or just use another L67.

Block and flex will bolt right up.

l32s are defiantly priced higher and harder to find one with low miles. Might go with this L67 $850 for 89k sound decent? Anything I should do before dropping in besides LIM and oil pan gasket?

I got a vid of the thing running ill have it up soon.

Originally Posted by 94GrandPrixSE

l32s are defiantly priced higher and harder to find one with low miles. Might go with this L67 $850 for 89k sound decent? Anything I should do before dropping in besides LIM and oil pan gasket?

A L67 with only 89K for $850 sounds pretty darn good to me. Your smart to do the LIM and oil pan gaskets. You may want to do the valve cover gaskets too if they look leaky. I'm guessing the coolant elbows are on borrowed time so you may want to replace them with aluminum ones too.

yeah elbows VC gasket is a good idea especially that rear one. Do I need to pull the S/C off when pulling the engine so the chain doesn't hit it? or is there enough clearance?

The super charger can stay on. Both motors should have brackets in opposite corners that you hook a chain to. Just make sure the chain is not too short and there is enough room.

I would look for a L32 and swap everything over, that way you get the better lower end and have the parts most swap to for an upgrade. It may be a little more but since they make more power from the start you would be ahead already.

Tell me how its better.

Rods make zero difference, both can handle the same HP numbers.

They can handle the same power, but the L32 rods are forged and a better design. Pistons are the exact same down to part number, the crankshaft is a different number and I think its a wee bit different, so not much difference there. But for any build I would want the better parts I could get, and for the little extra he can have the Series III motor with the better rods, heads, LIM/Supercharger, and spare parts to work with or put up for a rainy day.

An improvement is an improvement, in hindsight 90% of everyone who gets a L67 as a replacement and then starts upgrading say they should have just got the L32 when they did it in the first place. I actually went and looked at a 06 L32 that was the same price when I got my replacement motor. Was still in the car, clean as hell just didn't get it because I wasn't thinking.

L32 rods are forged??? Thought they were Powdered Metal.... PM rods are an in between cast and forged.

I dunno, but I know Powdered Metal rods are a standard for LS motors up to the LS7 and LS9 which have forged internals. LS2 Z06 motors ran PM rods not cast.

Will you push the limits of cast rods, no, but there are differences and PM is an improvement.

And I've broken 2 L36 rods (which are even weaker but suppose to hold up) while I was NA. Everyone has their horror stories.

I was under the impression they were forged. I know they are improved over the L67 rods but they could be Powdered Metal.

I don't have anything info that tells me how they were made at the dealership.

Typically rods don't break on either motors anyway the rod bolts do. I hear ya about the GenV being a nice upgrade tho.... but sounds like he found a fair priced low miles L67 and is having a hard time finding a l32 in his price range...

Just got back from getting the engine I ended up getting the L67 because the closest L32 that was in my price range and low miles was 250 miles away. This engine looks pretty clean, need to swap over a bunch of things to it and replace some gaskets. But here is the video of it knocking

Spun Bearing Hole in Block Open Headers

https://vimeo.com/75310886

I have to say sounds much worse in person.

Yea it sounds more like it has an exhaust leak in the video, rather than a hole in the block.

When I spun a bearing in mine I actually thought it was the diesel beside me in traffic, then they turned and the sound stayed with me... I was so mad. Don't know how long it had been doing that down the highway. It got me back home tho and then to work a day later where it went on the lift and got a new(used) heart.

A solid L67 is just as good as a L32, don't get me wrong. Just make sure you tear off the top at least down to the LIM gaskets and replace the gaskets. Head gaskets rarely ever blow so I wouldn't bother with them unless you just feel like doing it. But the other gaskets would probably need to be changed and while its out its the best time to do it.

Originally Posted by SnowFlake

Around here you can buy an L26 with lowwwwwwww miles for like 250 bucks.
Top swap it while it's out. That'd be the cheapest way to go.

I'd be more concerned about why your motor popped after the PCM swap though... Who's to say that's not gonna happen again?

Yes Ive thought about this a lot but since the shift points went up I went from getting 8 to 10 psi in between shifts, this was on a stock DP. Im pretty sure it just was too much for it with the exhaust restriction. But somehow I never got over 2.5kr and this happened. Im just going to have to scan scan scan before putting my foot into it. I also have a 90 day warranty on the engine.

Originally Posted by TLSheff

Yea it sounds more like it has an exhaust leak in the video, rather than a hole in the block.

When I spun a bearing in mine I actually thought it was the diesel beside me in traffic, then they turned and the sound stayed with me... I was so mad. Don't know how long it had been doing that down the highway. It got me back home tho and then to work a day later where it went on the lift and got a new(used) heart.

A solid L67 is just as good as a L32, don't get me wrong. Just make sure you tear off the top at least down to the LIM gaskets and replace the gaskets. Head gaskets rarely ever blow so I wouldn't bother with them unless you just feel like doing it. But the other gaskets would probably need to be changed and while its out its the best time to do it.

I wish I would have got a video before I ripped the DP off. My other GP GT had a clogged cat and I figured I swap them since the GTP wasnt going anywhere for a while and I wanted to get a Catless DP anyhow.