KR at WOT after intake

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Originally Posted by hensleya1

I tried searching for this but came up with nothing - exactly how is the other half of the stock air box removed? I couldn't figure it out for the life of me (and if I can pull it off, I'll add a larger filter at some point).

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There isn't much info on it, because most just yank and it comes out. There are only 2 "rivets" holding it in and they just pop out. No bolts or anything, it just fits snug into the area and those "rivets" hold it in place from sliding around. Pop up and wiggle it out. Done.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l7...psa33a0c96.png

See Illustration from work (Parts Guy). Should help you understand what you're looking at.

Just make sure you clear the PCM from the tray before you start tugging and pulling, you don't want to have to try and put wires back together if you tug too hard and rip them out.

what does KR and WOT stand for guys

what does KR and WOT stand for guys

what does kr and wot mean

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Originally Posted by GTP KING

what does KR and WOT stand for guys

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Knock Retard & Wide Open Throttle

sweet triple post mans

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Originally Posted by comatoast

That 104 booster is garbage. As is most octane booster. Your not at 104 anything. I'd be surprised if you added 1 point to your system. ( 93 pump with booster would be 94 octane ). If you have access to race gas, add a few ( 3 gallons) , then fill up with pump ( 91-93 ) more than likely it will go away.

Also how hot was it ( ambient temp ) when you run an open cone the intake temps tend to shoot up real quick. Which would lead to kr as well.

Even on a 99 I would suggest headers before any pulley drop. And even after headers I'd only drop to a 3.5 max.

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93 octane plus one point is 93.1 octane, not 94.

Flipped the dogbone mounts earlier but didn't have a good chance for a WOT pull. Certainly feels firmer, though, but the jury's still out. I'll scan for KR tomorrow if I get a decent chance, the GP isn't my daily driver.

I'll check to make sure the downpipe isn't hitting the sway bar (I don't think it is?), and also see if I can fiddle with the remnants of the intake box. If I can yank it, I'll put a larger filter in.

Flipping the dogbone mounts either had no effect on KR or reduced it slightly, by perhaps one degree. Checking the DP and cooler spark plugs are next

Have you thought about putting your stock air box back on and seeing if it goes away?

Also you removed your cat but did not eliminate the code? Could this be making the car go into some mode (like limp mode) to cause it to reduce power creating KR? I don't think the cat creates that much chaos... I'm just thinking out loud, but it seems like everything else has been thought of...

Put in some cooler spark plugs (NGK TR55) but still seeing 3.8* of KR at WOT.

False knock?

Dbextreme: Haven't deleted the P0140 code yet, and I plan on getting the car tuned, and I still haven't checked to see if the downpipe is hitting the sway bar (I don't think it is, but ill check nevertheless).

At some point I'm going to jerry a heat shield out of something to make my cone pull less hot air and see if that helps with overall power, but the KR I'm seeing is independent of intake air temps.

Which brings me back to false knock?

Just in my opinion, you'll never see 0 KR with the limited mods you have.

They knock from the factory a good amount, you've got it down to a smaller amount, more needs to be to make it down to 0-2* of KR.

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Originally Posted by dbextreme

Have you thought about putting your stock air box back on and seeing if it goes away?

Also you removed your cat but did not eliminate the code? Could this be making the car go into some mode (like limp mode) to cause it to reduce power creating KR? I don't think the cat creates that much chaos... I'm just thinking out loud, but it seems like everything else has been thought of...

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The 99 does not have a catalitic efficiency test like the newer years,so that shouldnt have an effect.
I believe that just causes a rich condition anyways.

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Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch

Just in my opinion, you'll never see 0 KR with the limited mods you have.

They knock from the factory a good amount, you've got it down to a smaller amount, more needs to be to make it down to 0-2* of KR.

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Look at ops first post. Said he had 0 kr untill open cone install

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Originally Posted by Max Cook

take the belt off and see if it goes away?

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Or unplug the BBV and see if it changes.

It's false knock.

Under load, the downpipe smacks into the sway bar. I had a shot passenger side motor mount, which when replaced reduced but did not entirely eliminate the problem.

Flipping the sway bar is in order, and I'm breathing easy knowing my pulley drop is coming soon.

I need to put mine on a lift in the shop and figure out if mine is doing this.

Pulley drop in a monthish

thanks for the info guys think i get the just of the knock, but what is the effects of wide open throttle is it like a bogging out feel?

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Originally Posted by GTP KING

thanks for the info guys think i get the just of the knock, but what is the effects of wide open throttle is it like a bogging out feel?

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GTP KING--

At WOT, your butt meter is unlikely to notice a difference between 0 KR and 4 KR, since that's only about 8-10 HP. But it will damn well notice 10+ degrees of KR.

Unless I misread your question and simply wanted to know what WOT was? Floor it and keep it there until you reach felony territory, lol.