Thread: Replacing the crankshaft, main, and rod bearings without removing heads?

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  1. #1 Replacing the crankshaft, main, and rod bearings without removing heads? 
    SE Level Member OcalaGTP's Avatar
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    I have the my l67 pulled out. Oil pan got dented. Developed a rod knock i believe.
    I was looking at autozone for pricing of gaskets and such. Autozone's website is better than anyone else's. I saw that they offer a Crankshaft kit. It includes a crankshaft .10 or better with matching rod and main bearings. I think it was $240 or something.
    I was trying to make this as painless on me the laborer and my wallet. Is it possible just to pull the crank and bearings without worrying about the heads?
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  2. #2 Re: Replacing the crankshaft, main, and rod bearings without removing heads? 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    you'll want to take the block to a machine shop and have it align honed, or you could wind up with a 200 mile engine.

    are you sure its a rod knock? maybe if the pan was dented enough the rods were hitting the windage tray in the pan?

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  3. #3 Re: Replacing the crankshaft, main, and rod bearings without removing heads? 
    SE Level Member OcalaGTP's Avatar
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    I replaced the pan, windage tray, and pickup tube. Still knocking pretty solid. Actually didn't knock until it got warm and didn't have any trouble going down the road. It would have been nice to get a oil pressure gauge on this car.
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  4. #4 Re: Replacing the crankshaft, main, and rod bearings without removing heads? 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    it would be cheaper to find a used engine, vs the new crank, or machined crank, and block and new bearings.

    if it was a older 350 you could get away with what your talking about, these blocks tend to warp, so with out machining the block, 99% of the time they dont last long.

    if you cant find a l67 or l32, but can find a n/a block, then top swap it with your engines parts. get it tuned and your set.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  5. #5 Re: Replacing the crankshaft, main, and rod bearings without removing heads? 
    SE Level Member OcalaGTP's Avatar
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    I've been doing some research for a few weeks on it. Trying to find the cheapest option. I can get a n/a block for arounf $500. Gasket kit from zzp is $184. And I'm not sure how much a tune for a top swap runs. I see the 1.0pcm they have just not a price.
    It was just adding up quick no matter how i look at it.
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  6. #6 Re: Replacing the crankshaft, main, and rod bearings without removing heads? 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    neither option is cheap really. if you call a machine shop, and get there price for the work, and then add the gaskets, new head bolts and so on, it will also skyrocket in price.

    its a tough place to be in for sure.

    id keep looking for a used l67, you may have to travel some to find one, e bay and craigslist are good places to start.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  7. #7 Re: Replacing the crankshaft, main, and rod bearings without removing heads? 
    Donating Users 16MustangVet's Avatar
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    No way id do anything other than swap the engine out these are prelly pretty easy to pull. And 3800s should be everywhere cheap as in under 500 bucks cheap. I don't see swapping to a na block causing much tuning issuses if any.
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  8. #8 Re: Replacing the crankshaft, main, and rod bearings without removing heads? 
    I live here. Slick2500's Avatar
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    I got my 105k l26 for $399 with tax. I have been running the stock tune since may and I am about to roll over 3200 miles since I first started it up. I have no issues what so ever. Only issues I have with the car now are worn out old suspension stuff that needs replaced.
    2003 Redfire Metallic Chevy Tahoe Z71 - Airaid Modular Intake Tube, Flowmaster Exhaust.
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  9. #9 Re: Replacing the crankshaft, main, and rod bearings without removing heads? 
    Florida Tuner Z34Phoenix's Avatar
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    Im in the Daytona beach area if you do need tuning. I know its a bit of a drive though. When my old engine died of old age (224k miles) I dropped in a complete L36 and trans and have a topswap ready to go on. was cheaper then getting a L67 and 4t65-HD and easier cause the l36 and trans came from a 98 Z so it was a direct drop in for my 96 Z

    96 Z34 (RIP LQ1 14.81@92.3) L36 Swap 14.9@91.5 www.cardomain.com/id/z34phoenix
    Topswap: P&P All,Si Valves,L76's,LW Pushrods,SD's,DHP PT PB 13.91@99.8
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  10. #10 Re: Replacing the crankshaft, main, and rod bearings without removing heads? 
    GTP Level Member buck531's Avatar
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    03 GS - SSAC, AEM wb, PT,SR rockers, Gen 3, 3.4, dynotech trans w/ 3.29's.

    87 Fiero GT. L67 Swap. XP, ported heads/sc. N* TB, FSIC, 2.8, 12.018 @ 113 1.71 60'.
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