Thread: L32 swap gone wrong

Hey Guys,
I'm finally finishing up my L32 swap (l67 spun a bearing), and it runs like garbage. Sounds like a supercharged lawn mower. The only code I'm throwing is a P0300, which is painfully obvious. I've checked for vacuum leaks (carb cleaner over everything), swapped out all 3 coils for known good ones, pulled the ICM harness and verified all connections, verified the spark plug routing and connections, all is well. New plugs, new wires, new fuel pump, gas is 91 octane, but is 5 months old. I understand the gas would cause it to run bad, but not THIS bad. I'm thinking at least 2 cylinders are not firing at all or at the right time...I'm running out of ideas on this damn thing.

Any ideas?

Try posting a video of it running.

Will give people a better understanding of whats going on.

Whatever the problem is, I think it's revolving around cylinder 6. I unplug 1 spark plug wire at a time and there is no difference on 6, but there is on every other cylinder. I'm gonna let it all cool off a minute then check the plug, wire, etc. if nothing is obviously wrong there I'll get a video.

Probably a bad injector or injector connector pin.

I put my stethoscope on it and can hear it clicking just as much as the rest of them. I know it's getting spark as well, I'm going to ohm the plug wire when I pull it off, check the plug, etc.

Its very easy to crack the plug on cyl 6. Try swapping a plgu from another cyl and be very careful when putting it in then swap wires then injector ect.

I have a spare plug and compared the spark on both (grounding the plug) and it looked the same. Ran a compression check on it and it holds 150 PSI no problem. I'm reassembling everything and swapping the injector to another cylinder to see.

Swapped injectors and same symptoms, I have the fuel rail off now to check for any clogs, I'd be VERY surprised if there was. Next up is pulling the valve cover to check things out.

i wouldnt just compare the spark i would use a different plug and swap wires

Just to make sure.1A8B7DB.jpg correct?

OH yes. double and triple checked that 4 times, lol.

Just pulled the valve cover and both valves appear to be moving just as much as the other when I turn it over by hand, and the rocker bolts are still at the correct torque. I'm going insane. At this point I'm about to pull the supercharger and look down the intake runner for a clog.

Move plug 6 to another cylinder and see if it follows the plug. Sometimes you can't spot hairline cracks.

A P0300 is a random misfire code not specific to any cyl. If it was a P0306 then you would for sure have a misfire on just the #6, not to discredit your findings just throwing that out there because your problem may not be with just your #6 cyl.

When you pulled your #6 out, was the plug wet or bone dry? I would assume if the plug was wet you would have no spark (which you said you do) if it was bone dry then you have no fuel (since you are sparking, but not firing) You swapped injectors with the same symptoms, did you check your injector wiring? The plug that actually plugs into the injector itself? I have had this issue with a sensor being a short in the plug itself. Look at your plug, look inside it. Is it possible to unplug the plug from the injector and test for voltage/pulse while the car is running? Might be an option...

Maybe a stupid question, but what PCM are you using? Your original or the one from the car you got the L32 from?

As for gas, pppffftttt.. My car sat for 5-6 months with 1/4 tank of 87 while I was building my motor. I dropped in my motor and test drove the car around with that tank. Mine being a top swapped motor and 87 with no KR, I wouldn't think it's fuel related... lol

I would not pull your motor back apart on a whim. I know it's frustrating, I'm dealing with a P0171 code so yeah I can relate to the whole pulling your hair out and blowing the car up..

As for a clogged up intake runner??? I'm trying to think of symptoms... I'm also trying to think if a clog would hold up being wet with fuel, and being pushed on by boost... I dunno, just thinking out loud... Did you hear the motor run before you purchased it?

I didn't but I had compression results for the JY I got it from. I'm really thinking its the gas. Now that we got it back together it won't run at all, but if I spray some starter fluid in the TB it'll sputter for a second and die. I pull the fuel line from before the fuel filter (replace before the engine went out) and started filling gallon jugs (1\2 tank, yay). I poured them into a 5 gallon bucket and the gas looks like apple juice\nasty beer. It barely smells of gas anymore as well, so I think I'm gonna drain as much as I can, then put a few gallons of 91 in there.

Must have been walmart gas... LOL

Give it a shot, can't hurt and you might want to change the filter again for safe measure.

Just drained about 8 gallons and poured a gallon of new gas in, same results. When I try starting fluid it fires right up and idles damn near perfect, only for about 2 seconds if I'm lucky.

Try unplugging the MAF and perhaps put the fuel pump in HIGH mode by bending the tab on the relay.

Tab is already bent and I tried the MAF unplugged this morning. Tried the same thing with the TPS, IAC, and MAP. I deleted the codes right after each test. So far the only thing that has happened is that it got worse. Now it won't run at all, unless I spray some starter fluid in the TB. I'm trying to track down a fuel pressure gauge so I can see where it's sitting, and if it's low the first thing I'm doing is putting a new filter on. Then a pump if need be.

If it's starting with starting fluid it's definitely a fuel issue so at least you'reon the right track