Thread: L32 swap gone wrong

i skimped around.. but wondering.. did you pull the fuel lines off at the rail and test to see if gas is circulating to the rail... s

I've pulled the rail and ran compressed air through it, seemed fine. I also pulled the plug, rotated the engine until the intake valve was open, and put compressed air through the injector boss. I felt it through the plug hole no problem.

What voltage are the injectors supposed to show with the key on engine off? All six of mine are only showing six volts, I was under the impression that they needed 12 volts? Maybe they only get 12 volts when the engine is actually running?

Empty your whole tank. Try new fuel and if that doesn't work new fuel filter and try to see if fuel lines Are clear

I'm pretty sure they don't ever get 12v

I found this page, and it says they go between 6 and 12 volts:
L67 Injectors
I'm gonna take back this worthless code reader I got from Walmart and use that money to rent a fuel pressure gauge at Orielly's. If my pressure is low I'll replace the fuel filter, if it's still low, the pump. If that doesn't work, I guess I'll just keep scratching my head. As far as all the problems I was having with cylinder 6, I think that is because 6 is the last cylinder on the fuel rail...

I somehow have 4 bad injectors. I'm gonna have to convert to the l32 injectors I have, I know they are a lower rating, but they'll work on my stock setup until I can find some l67s at a JY.

You do realize those are the same lb injectors right? I was under the impression the connectors were different, from my understanding your L32 injectors will not work with the L67 injector harness. I take you have something that will allow you to connect them?

Yeah 97-03 is ev1 04+ is ev6

I did have something to use them, and they are not the same LB rating, there's something like 3 pounds difference. I ended up getting 4 L67 injectors and using them, It runs now but has a very rough idle and hesitates on acceleration (haven't driven it yet). Once I get a hold of a code reader again I'll pull code and go from there. So far I can't find any vacuum leaks.

At first I was thinking, you need a case learn. I've had a few swaps where the motor ran badly once installed and after checking everything.. I crank learned it and presto..the pcm must have been off on it's crank position.

so your running a mixed set of injectors?

Nope, all L67s. 2 of my old 6 were good, 4 decided to totally die, so I went and bought 4 new ones, cleaned them up, tested them, and dropped them in. Now it starts and idles okay (pretty rough, but stable), but when I give it throttle it'll vibrate really bad before the RPM go up. When I left off, it'll drop a few hundred RPM below where it's idle originally was and recover itself back to the idle it started with.

A CASE learn is on the list, once it's on the road again. It's acting kinda like it'd got a vacuum leak or something of the sort, so I'll look through all those options first. It does have an SES light, but I don't have a code reader today, so I'll pull whatever codes it has and start there.

Bad injector O-rings? I had similar symptoms with my L32 swap using my old stock L67 injectors and it turned out that all three of the rear bank injectors had cracked disks - with #6 being the very worst. They all looked fine when I installed them so I did not suspect that they would be the source of the problem. I only realized they were cracked when I pulled them out as a last ditch effort to find the source of my #6 misfire.

I dumped in a set of Siemens DEKA 60 pounders and scaled my Injector time down by 60% - Never looked back.

http://www.grandprixforums.net/cam-stumbles-off-idle-normal-77049.html

I have all fresh O-rings, and the pintle caps are all new as well. I think I'm going to try a smoke test looking for vacuum leaks and if that doesn't work pull codes and hope they point me in the right direction, but they never have before so I'm not to hopeful on that one.