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07-19-2013
i dont have all the good stuff, no hoist or anything. no garage either, apt living for me. hell i park in a pathmark parking lot to avoid paying for parking here, lol 60 a month, no thanks, ill walk that 1000 feet. it does suck in the rain or snow, but it is what it is.
07-19-2013
Well I might have found a guy who did a friends cobalt turbo last year.
07-19-2013
All this Cobalt bidnez
07-20-2013
Take out the engine, much better to work on especially if you aren't too familiar with these engines and Trans. I usually take out both with a fork lift, never done just the engine or tranny.
At the end of the day like they say, do the work yourself it is the best way to learn, I did my first cam swap and valve spring change on this motor with a lot of help off here. And honestly it was more of a scare than anything. you can change all gaskets,prep and paint anything on the motor and easy to put bolts back it. Best part about it everything new you learn and realize how easy these motors are to work on.
07-20-2013
Yeah I think I am gonna pull the motor. Also would be easier to replace the headers too that way.
07-20-2013
Looks cleeeeann!
07-20-2013
Put the rear header in first before you install the engine, once that is done bolt on the crossover and front header. Wire everything up re route or hide wires and vacuum lines for a cleaner look, it takes time but trust me it is worth it, and better to Di all the work At one time then mess with it later.Originally Posted by camopaint0707
Also if you want to paint things pick out a theme and prep the stuff mainly clean it up good.
07-20-2013
Yeah that's my plan. Gonna pull the trans too. Should I just wait till I pull the engine/trans to do a trans fluid flush as well as replace the trans filter or should I do it before hand?
07-20-2013
dont flush the trans, and doing the pan drop and filter would be easier in the car, as its up off the ground in the car.
07-20-2013
^^That.
You don't want to flush a trans on these cars...
eva.
07-20-2013
Easier you mean like underneath the car? And I didn't mean like flushing it with a hose just replacing the fluid once I replace the filter. Like with fresh fluid.
07-20-2013
a flush is a full fluid swap, ( you dont want to do that) pan drop is 8 quarts of new fluid with a filter. doing a pan drop while its in the car will be easier then trying to drop the pan when it out of the car.
07-21-2013
Why don't I want to swap the fluids?
07-21-2013
cause the tranny will be dead instantly, or die soon after. especially if your fluid is not nice and red any more, and have over 150,000 miles on it. its high risk.
the old fluid has clutch material in from the worn clutches, re move it all and the tranny can sh it the bed. just dropping the pan and filter change is safer to do. its about 8 quarts, 1/2 the volume of the trans and t converter.
not sure if you said your getting the trans rebuilt, if so then make sure you get a new torque converter and all new fluid. about 4 gallons.
07-21-2013
I sent you a PM, you guys have confused me lol.
07-21-2013
There is no confusion... It's two entirely different methods of changing/replacing transmission fluid while on the car.
A flush is done when a pump is hooked up to push out the old tranny fluid while putting in new. It is generally not a good idea to go this route, let alone on a tranny with some mileage and or unknown history.
The pan drop opens the tranny and allows the same fluid change. Except you get to examine the pan for metal and or abnormal amounts of material and you replace the filter too which is a good idea with new fluid. This access also allows for a shift kit if desired to be installed too. You won't get all the old fluid out, but that's ok actually. Takes about 7 quarts as mentioned.
Overall, if you work on your own vehicle, the pan drop is the way to go! You could have a tranny shop do it, but if you change your motor oil, you can do the tranny too.
07-22-2013
Pretty sure Jason moved.
I know what you are thinking and sorry, I don't work for beer and pizza and don't work outside my garage. A guy has to have all his favorite tools within reach.
Pull it, cam it, gaskets, drop it back in .. you are looking at around 16 hours of work. Going into the trans and doing cluthes etc, add another 6 hours or so. FWIW that's the BillBoost, no screwing around timeline.For a normal human being, plan longer.
07-22-2013
Yeah Pan drop is what I was talking about. I didn't mean it as flush like a coolant flush. And bill yeah I found a few guys willing to work for like $20 an hour or so. And I figured it would be a two day task.
07-22-2013
Comprehensive list so far.
· VS cam swap (with new lifters and retainers)
o Timing chain
o Timing cover gasket set
o Timing Damper
· Fuel filter
· Lower intake manifold gasket
· Valve cover gasket
· Exhaust manifold gaskets
· Spark plug wires
· Spark plugs-two step colder
· Engine oil and oil filter with oil flush
· 180 degree thermostat
· Replace supercharger oil
· Oil pan gasket
· Water pump with gasket
New headers and downpipe
Gen V blower swap (need to port the LIM correct)
Northstar throttle body swap (need adapter and new MAF correct) (But cables will match up write)
3.3 pulley (already have MPS)
07-23-2013
Look into a lower conversion gasket set. Better bang for the buck than an oil pan gasket plus a timing cover gasket plus a water pump gasket..
Depending on which maf you go for determines what you need for an adapter or pigtail then wire it directly. Same with the N* TPS.
I don't see
valve springs
Valve seals
Valve cover grommets (a must when doing gaskets)
Teflon paste for timing cover bolts and LIM bolts
FWIW headers are no easier when the motor is out. Because most of us put the rear piece on the trans, install motor, then bolt it all up. It's not much different than doing it in the car w/o having pulled motor.
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