Thread: double roller timing chain

For the double roller it says the balance shaft needs to be removed if so how hard is this and how do i do it also do i need double roller for 130lb springs or can i use a single was thinking of a jp double roller im ordering right now so any help would be great

I'm running a single with 130's.

How do you remove balance shaft would sorta prefere a double roller

I think you just take the gear off

You take both the gears off and then just leave the shaft in there. Go with the roll master double.

^^What this guy said.

Don't get a JP double.

Make sure you have a machine shop chamfer the crank sprocket of the double roller to match the stocker you remove for you so it will fit properly... Also get a machined oil pump cover if your machine shop can not make yours .02" thinner. (I believe that's what needs to be removed).

And to each their own on chains when it comes to JP/Rollmaster.. One owns the other so they aren't going to put out crap quality parts...

I ordered a jp so i will get it chamfered when i get my valve guides milled

The key for chain life is getting that crank sproket champher properly done! You should have a bit of back and forth play on the sprockets and a bit of slack in the chain. Without having the champher done (like a lot of people did years ago through trial and error and snappin chains) it will put the chain in a bind and wear it out quick. Also not having the clearances and having it rub on something will make it prematurely wear and break. Same chains used in our cars are used in V8's so I'm not worried with JP at all, as long as it's installed right.

I mic'ed mine and after machine work on the sprocket, the chain is equal distance all the way around from the block. I have slight back and forth slide on the sprockets and a little slack. I did have a clearance issue still with my factory oil pump cover so I went ahead and got a machined one. After the oil pump cover was installed I had no rubbin without a timing cover gasket so installed I have no problems!!!!

In the pics you can also see, just remove the balance shaft gear and leave the shaft in place. Also the larger gear behind the single roller cam sprocket needs to be left off as well. When installing, get your crank sprocket tapped on all of 3/4" or so then start trying to slide your chain and cam sprocket on. You'll have to gently tap the crank sprocket a little at a time and test fit after each hit.. LOL once you get the cam bolt started then you are golden!!! Took me like 10 minutes to install mine when I have heard horror stories out of others..

http://i698.photobucket.com/albums/v...4-06165900.jpg
http://i698.photobucket.com/albums/v...4-06165910.jpg

Originally Posted by 1quick

if the motor is out of the car its not that hard to take the balance shaft out of the motor and tap and plug the oil hole

I'm assuming you are meaning the motor is apart so that the tapping doesn't drop stuff into the oiling areas.

If the engine isn't going to a machine shop, I remove the bolt and gear.. done.

No engine isnt going to machine shop just the heads are to have valve guids milled for my s3x cam and the double roller crank gear is go now to to be chamfered