Thread: Boost gauge can't be right...

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  1. #1 Boost gauge can't be right... 
    SE Level Member JerzNick's Avatar
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    Sup all, Here is a pic of my gauge at idle showing 16psi VAC... At WOT it goes to +4... is that all the boost I'm getting?

    I have the gauge T'd in between the map and lim, No vac leaks that I can tell, fuel trims are just about perfect.

    Any ideas?

    IMAG0004.jpg



    Also, Im running a 3.0 pulley with out an IC, just ported heads, headers and xp cam. Should I go up in pulley size to be safe?

    Thanks
    Bored block, Eagle Crank, XP Cam, Ported Heads/LIM/Blower/TB, 3.0 Pulley, CAI, Headers, 42.5#, AL 104's, etc...
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  2. #2 Re: Boost gauge can't be right... 
    GXP Level Member darkhorizon's Avatar
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    Sounds about right assuming your bbv is broken.
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  3. #3 Re: Boost gauge can't be right... 
    SE Level Member JerzNick's Avatar
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    BBV is fine, the BBS is shot... Unplugged it and now seeing 12lbs

    Thanks
    Bored block, Eagle Crank, XP Cam, Ported Heads/LIM/Blower/TB, 3.0 Pulley, CAI, Headers, 42.5#, AL 104's, etc...
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  4. #4 Re: Boost gauge can't be right... 
    GTX Level Member dbextreme's Avatar
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    Vacuum is right. I stay right around 14 (whatever units) at idle and I have a similar setup as you, just top swapped with a 3.4. I see 9psi at WOT
    1999 GPGT - L26, Ported Top Swap, XP Cam, 3.2 MPS, 42.5#, N*, LQ4, SD Headers, Double Roller, TEP Race Trans w/Stand alone Cooler, Precision Industries 3000RPM Stall, 75 Shot Nitrous Express Proton Kit w/Purge, 3" Dual Borla Pro XS, Corsa Dual 3.5 Tips, 5% Tint
    1995 Firebird Formula - Under the Knife
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  5. #5 Re: Boost gauge can't be right... 
    SE Level Member JerzNick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbextreme View Post
    Vacuum is right. I stay right around 14 (whatever units) at idle and I have a similar setup as you, just top swapped with a 3.4. I see 9psi at WOT
    Just out of curiosity, what made you choose a 3.4?
    Bored block, Eagle Crank, XP Cam, Ported Heads/LIM/Blower/TB, 3.0 Pulley, CAI, Headers, 42.5#, AL 104's, etc...
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  6. #6 Re: Boost gauge can't be right... 
    GXP Level Member darkhorizon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JerzNick View Post
    Just out of curiosity, what made you choose a 3.4?
    high compression lower end and pump gas I assume.
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  7. #7 Re: Boost gauge can't be right... 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Since you don't have a BBV or BBS.. you know.. lol

    BCA and BCS if you are interested.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  8. #8 Re: Boost gauge can't be right... 
    GTX Level Member dbextreme's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JerzNick View Post
    Just out of curiosity, what made you choose a 3.4?
    What dark said... And it's a common size to start with from what I read. Right now I am seeing 0 KR so I will venture into dropping pulleys eventually. I really want to go Intercooled, but am happy with the setup at the moment.
    1999 GPGT - L26, Ported Top Swap, XP Cam, 3.2 MPS, 42.5#, N*, LQ4, SD Headers, Double Roller, TEP Race Trans w/Stand alone Cooler, Precision Industries 3000RPM Stall, 75 Shot Nitrous Express Proton Kit w/Purge, 3" Dual Borla Pro XS, Corsa Dual 3.5 Tips, 5% Tint
    1995 Firebird Formula - Under the Knife
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  9. #9 Re: Boost gauge can't be right... 
    SE Level Member JerzNick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
    Since you don't have a BBV or BBS.. you know.. lol

    BCA and BCS if you are interested.
    I have the BBV. Just the solenoid is unplugged. Is that bad long term?

    What's bca/bcs?
    Bored block, Eagle Crank, XP Cam, Ported Heads/LIM/Blower/TB, 3.0 Pulley, CAI, Headers, 42.5#, AL 104's, etc...
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  10. #10 Re: Boost gauge can't be right... 
    SE Level Member JerzNick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbextreme View Post
    What dark said... And it's a common size to start with from what I read. Right now I am seeing 0 KR so I will venture into dropping pulleys eventually. I really want to go Intercooled, but am happy with the setup at the moment.
    I'm seeing some small kr in high rpm... I tried to back off the timing but it's not helping. Looks like I'll be going up to 3.4 just to be safe.
    Bored block, Eagle Crank, XP Cam, Ported Heads/LIM/Blower/TB, 3.0 Pulley, CAI, Headers, 42.5#, AL 104's, etc...
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  11. #11 Re: Boost gauge can't be right... 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JerzNick View Post
    I have the BBV. Just the solenoid is unplugged. Is that bad long term?

    What's bca/bcs?
    Check with GM.. you don't have a BBV, because you don't have a turbo. BCA Boost control actuator. BCS boost control soleniod.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  12. #12 Re: Boost gauge can't be right... 
    GXP Level Member darkhorizon's Avatar
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    The solenoid never does anything on a stock car, so having it unplugged is no different than having it plugged in.
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  13. #13 Re: Boost gauge can't be right... 
    GTX Level Member dbextreme's Avatar
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    Once I get a few more miles on the car (and while I collect pulleys from 3.0 - 3.3) then I'll drop sizes to find one the motor likes.

    AS for the BBV solenoid, I removed mine completely. I capped off the piece that branched off the FPR and I left a 2-3" pig tail of vacuum line off the back of the BBV just open to atmosphere. Works great so far.
    1999 GPGT - L26, Ported Top Swap, XP Cam, 3.2 MPS, 42.5#, N*, LQ4, SD Headers, Double Roller, TEP Race Trans w/Stand alone Cooler, Precision Industries 3000RPM Stall, 75 Shot Nitrous Express Proton Kit w/Purge, 3" Dual Borla Pro XS, Corsa Dual 3.5 Tips, 5% Tint
    1995 Firebird Formula - Under the Knife
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