I'm planning on dropping to a 3.4 pulley in a little. I need to get plugs and a therm. I just wanna make sure I get the right stuff. What plugs would people recommend between NGK and auto lite? Also I planned on getting a drilled 180* therm.
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I'm planning on dropping to a 3.4 pulley in a little. I need to get plugs and a therm. I just wanna make sure I get the right stuff. What plugs would people recommend between NGK and auto lite? Also I planned on getting a drilled 180* therm.
plugs are personal preference, people tend to go with copper plugs on gtp's and change them every 3 oil changes. i wouldnt run a drilled thermostat, it wont help with kr if thats what youre looking for.
drilled t-stats are great just in case the thermo fails to open. get autolite 606's for now untill you get the 3.4 on there then its 104
outdated autolites work great on outdated motors like the 3800
thats what im throwing in mine. iridiums work fine, people have had issues with platinums before if i recall correctly.
edit: if youre thermostat fails to open, youre doing it wrong.
Ya that's why I was gonna go drilled I just wanted to they people's opinions on the 180. So just throw the 104s in when I do the pulley. No iridium?
pleeeeeeeeenty of people run iridiums on a gtp without issue. its the platinums that tend to **** stuff up. id be too lazy to run coppers on anything.
copper is a better conductor, provides a better spark. In your case you have boost, you want copper
dont you headers for a 3.4? setup?
I am doing a topswap and everyone says i need headers even with stock pulley... so YOU NEED HEADERS lol.
I'm doin the plog, dp, crossover, ported mani combo. Got a good deal on it all
Plog is half a header, lol... Just saying!
Truly, just a question... Are you planning on a tune? And what's your plan for monitoring KR?
4) Spark Plugs - Change out those stock spark plugs with new ones to restore any lost power. Brands that most tend to go with are either Copper Core Autolites or NGK's. They range as follows in order from hottest to coldest plugs...remember...you want the hottest spark you can get away with...so running a super cold plug on a larger pulley to combat knock isn't the best plan...OEM replacement ACDelco's, AL606's, and AL605's are basically for stock cars or very small bolt-ons still running the stock S/C Pulley or modded N/A guys...you want to keep a hot spark. NGKTR55/AL104's for your 3.4" Setup, TR6's are a tad cooler...best used around the 3.25" pulley area, and AL103's...are for the extreme supercharged application...3.0" pulley or lower. Here is a picture to reference the firing order and the correct coil number if yours aren't numbered or you just need a quick reference picture: http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6.../plugwires.jpg
AC Delco Factory Replacements: Stock
Autolite 606: Stock
Autolite 605: 1 Heat Range Cooler
NGK TR55: 1 Heat Range Cooler
Autolite 104: 2 Heat Ranges Cooler
NGK TR6: 2 Heat Ranges Cooler
Autolite 103: 3 Heat Ranges Cooler
Guess Where I got this info from LOL.
i think the drilled tstat is so the car gets to temp faster--at least that is the most common answer i found in a google search. i had a drilled 180 in mine and it still always ran at 195 anyway. and the gasket leaked for some reason. i got those from zzp. i took them out and just put the stock one back in.
if the car is designed to run its best at 195 and you don't change the tune, leave it at 195. every car is different i guess but mine is just fine at 195 and without headers. had to have the al 104 plugs though. stock grade wires.
your plog will probably be just fine if needed at all. most common thing i have come across is that the weakness is in the front header and the u-bend. a plog fixes the front and the dp fixes the ubend. my headers are stock. but you'll have to scan your own car to make sure.
The drilled thermostat takes longer getting to temp.
proving the internet is always right and there is never conflicting information.
i stumbled upon a mazda forum where they whole thread was basically arguing back and forth between five or six different people what a drilled stat is supposed to do and if it helps or hurts.
if it does take longer seems another reason to me to not have one.
Drilled Tstat takes longer when it is cold outside and temps are low. Only advantage is there is flow no matter what, some say it's good so there's no temp shock to engine when it opens, lol. Bottom line is 180 Tstat will not make car run cooler unless the fan on/off is tuned for it.
You should look to run the HOTTEST plug you can with an eye on KR. Swap and play is only way to know which works best. I use copper plugs... Coldest is not bestist... : )
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