That's the flex with the gear looking on it..
Put a pair of vice grips on it to stop it from spinning.
BTW, no need to apologize for me reading too fast and misreading what you wrote. You wrote it perfectly fine.
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That's the flex with the gear looking on it..
Put a pair of vice grips on it to stop it from spinning.
BTW, no need to apologize for me reading too fast and misreading what you wrote. You wrote it perfectly fine.
Thank you sir :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
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Once you can't break the bolt loose. Take the vice grips off. Put your ratchet on the subframe, have someone put a hand or board against it to hold and give the engine one quick crank with the starter.
Been there..done that.
Got bolt off...now something seems to be up with my puller...ugghh dammit lol
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you cant used the bolts that come with the puller.
you need a different size thread and pitch.
if you have the right bolts, and it just wont move as your cranking the bolt. make it tight, then hit the drive bolt of the puller with a hammer, then try to turn the bolt, it should turn, repeat as needed.
Well I got it lol...seems to be doing better....feels smoother for some reason.....but havent really taken it any whereQuote:
Originally Posted by Scottydoggs
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I should clarify...I have taken it up and down my road....but thats it lol Thank you everyone:-)
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I'm looking for an update here. I'm assuming that your problem is fixed?
Glad you got it.
Ok so...update. .. still have the same problem....ran fine for a while...now its not...doing same things
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Ok, try unplugging the maf with the engine off. Drive like that w/o boosting. See if that helps.
Tried that...still happened...now I have p0336 showing up....by the time I made it home....the car was running fine.....just ran my car until it started acting up again. ...then it threw the codeQuote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
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Ok.. on that code.. I believe the wiring harness from ICM to crank sensor and the ICM are considered suspects.
I guess when I am able to look at my car without wanting to blow it up I will check it out lol...I did notice one thing...when I was getting on it while trying to get the car to act up...the t under the snout blew off under heavy throttle lol....I felt it when it happened....probably unrelated but...just figured id share lol
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Do you have anymore details of your symtoms? I had a similar problem with all electronics in my car one day. Turns out that my power wire for my sub shifted all the way over to the supercharger pully and the coating on the wire was rippied off pretty quickly. Traction control, abs, cruise control, and tach all went crazy. I noticed it immediately and had no permanent damage
I can be cruising down the road fine....I will feel the car "jump" then my tach goes all crazy for about 30 seconds before droppin to zero....all the while the car is spitting and sputtering..... if I try to give it gas it does not help...makes it buck and jump worse....will stall out...starts back up....tach works til I try to go again.....then rinse and repeat.....after a while it straightens out and runs great again....these spells last probably about 10-15 mins....I was 12 miles from home when it started actin up yesterday...by the time I was almost home it was fine.....Quote:
Originally Posted by biteme56
Edit:
I should add that when my tach drops...a few seconds later my trac off light comes on
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Ok another quick question...if the cps is bad....would my scanner software still have an accurate reading on rpms once the tach goes out?
I was driving it with my scanxl pro software running...once my tach went out....my software shows what i would deem as relatively accurate readongs on the rpms....750-800 at idle and goes up when revved...etc...
I would think that if the cps was not providing signal...my software would not have a reading either...
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my car has been stalling for the past 2 years and i have other cars.
as i read on the forums cps is the problem and i got around to changeing it on friday and now it lives again.
it was kind of a pain to change but it solved my problem
I changed mine as well...but still have the same issue.....thats why i asked about the scan xl pro still getting an rpm reading when the tach had none lol.....just kinda seems weird.....i put it in my local repair shop bc i dontvhave the money to keep throwing at things that MAY be the issue....never been let down by this place...hope it continues lolQuote:
Originally Posted by titanfan12
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Ok...well changed icm and it SEEMS to be good now.....keepin my fingers crossed.....
Also wanna say thanks for the advice and help everyone :-)
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