so you now have a no crank at all condition?
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It ran briefly after pushed car from driveway to garage. Won't start now...
I replaced starter and checked grounds on bell housing. With key on and trying to jump starter it sparks and makes noise but engine dosnt attempt to turn over. This things stressing me in many ways
how do the battery cables look, are the ends showing bare metal any where? at the starter, and the large ground on the bellhousing, and at the battery pos and neg.
If the link I posted is correct then it appears that crank should have shown a volt spike when I turned it with a wrench. Nothing
The battery cables and all cables actually look great... This car appears was well taken care of and there's no rust or corrosion on any connections or wires
so .....if we go back to my post of how things work, I have a feeling we could have this diagnosed and running by now. Not being a dick, but you seem to have ignored it compeltely and hey...it's appears you like being cold with a non-running car. If you like bonding time with the car not running, I won't stand in the way. If you want the car running though, and you don't understand what I wrote, please...ask some questions.
Cause everything you need to diagnose it is in what I wrote.
PS, if you change the crank sensor on an engine that won't turn over, you are wasting money, time and effort. I'll give you my paypal info if you want to throw away money, that way you can sit inside at the computer and be warm while wasting money.
I thought I did address what you offered but maybe I didn't understand completely.
The key is tossed in the ignition and the key is read by teh theft system. (What's your security light doing when you turn the key to on (not start...just on?)) --it flashes
Then the signal to start is sent to the PNP switch on top of the transmission. If the switch is in N or P (Look at your dash, does it read that it's in either P or N?) it'll relay the power to the starter soleniod. --When the car would start it do so in both N and P
Now we are under the car at the starter and we can check the soleniod wire to see if it's getting power when the ignition is turned to start. No power, let's go back through what we looked at and double check things.
Lastly, if you put the key in run/on and jump the soleniod with a screwdriver..does the car crank, start and run? --when turn key on and jump the starter the starter makes a noise but the car dosnt start for me... This part confuses me most.
Those relays you are aiming to go after could simply be ignition supplied relays doing their thing. I know this....they are most likely not related.
very thankful for any help. I just thought judging by the turn crank by hand and see multimeter it meant crank sensor was bad? Idk though
https://www.google.com/search?q=actr...20&bih=356#p=0
Bought that. Starter turns engine over no problem. I'm getting spark and the fuel rail has fuel. Just when turn the ignition I get nothing. Dash has security blinking when keys on "on".
once again cant be 100% sure, but either you need a security relearn or a ignition switch and harness.
but most of the time when you have security issues, the car will start, with the key, then stall 10 seconds later.
How would I do a relearn? The key fob dosnt unlock/lock doors even after replacing battery in remote if that could be factor...? My cavalier has a stock gm alarm from 95 and if key fob dosnt work and batt dies you have to hook battery up with the key in on position for it to allow it to start... Unfortunately I learned that hard way after 2 weeks of stress. There something like that to this Buick? Before spend the money on ignition just want to know its ignition
heres is your owner manual http://www.extendedgmwarranty.com/ow...uick-Regal.pdf you may need to re program the key fobs.
if you had the battery out, or the battery in the fob died and was dead for a long time, it needs to be re programmed.
but i doubt this is your problem.
its just something that bugs me... thoughts on secrurity light? if you sit in the car with key turned to "on" does security light blink? is there any way to test the ignition cylinder?
i have a 98 regal, ill check tomorrow if mine flashes, im pretty sure every dummy light lights up when the key is turned to run, and stay on till after the car is started for a few seconds, then go out.
mine continues to blink if i sit there. it could be completely normal but billboost asked about that specifically so would love a comparison. once all the lights clear i have my change oil light and the security light blinks... greatly appreciate the help if possible
OIL LIFE MONITOR: Shows an estimate of the oil’s
remaining useful life. When the oil life index is less than
lo%, the CHANGE OIL SOON light will come on.
When you have the oil changed according to the
maintenance schedule (see “Maintenance Schedule” in
the Index), you will have to reset the oil life monitor. To
do this, press and hold the RESET button for more than
five seconds while the oil life monitor is being displayed
on the DIC. The oil life will change to 100%
thank you very much. been reading alot about the terrible passlock problems people have and having this horrid flashback to my 94cavalier problems. theres a couple things i can try if it is indeed the issue. I greatly appreciate the help man and if you can lmk about your light blinking i appreciate it
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