Thread: Need some help (Balancer removal/Engine stand)

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  1. #21  
    LaBarge Supercharged sseilmnop's Avatar
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    Thought this over and i did a bunch more. Filled one cylinder with oil and put spark plug back in.

    I bolted on a old exhaust manifold and put a 6 foot spud bar (steel digging bar) between it and the head. My 11 year old held the end of bar.

    It was really tight. A good impact will break it loose but my Campbell Hausfied at 110 psi with a squirt of oil in it would not touch it.

    P.S

    I picked up with hoist, lowered it to the ground, left hoist attached and it still wanted to roll on ground.
    Adapters, Phenolic Intercoolers, Supercharger Parts & TVS2300
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  2. #22  
    GTX Level Member GOTIT4CHEAP16's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 88formula View Post
    My heads and block also are going to be red (chevrolet Orange-red-DE1607) LIM, blower, etc will be aluminum colored paint...pulleys, fuel rails, and various other things, along with maybe my headers, will be painted black.
    I like the sound of that.

    Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
    Gen V, 3.0, Stage 2 heads, XP Cam, SD Headers, N*, LQ4, ZZP Stage 2 Gen 3 Intercooler, CAI, AL 104's Gapped to .055, #130 Springs, 42.5lb Injectors, ZZP Tune.

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  3. #23 Re: Need some help (Balancer removal/Engine stand) 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    I do a lot of these bolts. Typically my impact with 150lbs of air take them right off. One motor that was on a stand decided to fight.

    Here's the story of what I did:

    Took vice grips and blocked the flex. This stops the rotating assembly from rotating. Took out the 2 foot craftsman 1/2 ratchet and socket. Wouldn't budge, now I'm not a weak guy..things flexed. Walked over to my floor jack and grabbed the steel handle (approximately 4 foot) as I know it fits over this ratchet. Started to try the bolt with extra leverage and was going to tip the stand. Walked down to the neighbors place and asked for a hand. Neighbor is a contractor and not a weak guy. We looked at the situation and I stood on the side of the stand while he gave it a try. Things flexed, no movement on the bolt. I stood on the stand and also held the motor still, he put the bar up higher and we both said.......it's going to give or break. it came loose when he jumped on it.

    Typically you won't fight this bolt that badly, but when someone overdoes the loctite etc...it can happen.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  4. #24 Re: Need some help (Balancer removal/Engine stand) 
    GTX Level Member GOTIT4CHEAP16's Avatar
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    Thats kind of what i did but since i was working at my moms house...i used one of her dinning room chairs and covered up the seats so they wouldnt stain lol. I then put all my might into the breaker bar and jack handle i threw over it for extra support and what do ya know....it broke right off THANK GOD lol.


    What i used





    After i broke it loose








    Balancer bolt removed




    Double Roller Master and Timing Chain









    I think ive put more time and effort in this engine than i did in my own lol. Gonna have more fun driving my girlfriends car more. I just might swap engines with her hmm....
    Gen V, 3.0, Stage 2 heads, XP Cam, SD Headers, N*, LQ4, ZZP Stage 2 Gen 3 Intercooler, CAI, AL 104's Gapped to .055, #130 Springs, 42.5lb Injectors, ZZP Tune.

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  5. #25 Re: Need some help (Balancer removal/Engine stand) 
    GT Level Member 88formula's Avatar
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    What color paint did you end up using? looks good I like it, and yeah like I said that bolt is no joke!
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  6. #26 Re: Need some help (Balancer removal/Engine stand) 
    GTX Level Member GOTIT4CHEAP16's Avatar
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    I used the red break caliper paint sold at autozone.
    Gen V, 3.0, Stage 2 heads, XP Cam, SD Headers, N*, LQ4, ZZP Stage 2 Gen 3 Intercooler, CAI, AL 104's Gapped to .055, #130 Springs, 42.5lb Injectors, ZZP Tune.

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  7. #27 Re: Need some help (Balancer removal/Engine stand) 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    You can see it appears the bolt was off before and....someone overloaded the loctite.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  8. #28 Re: Need some help (Balancer removal/Engine stand) 
    GTX Level Member GOTIT4CHEAP16's Avatar
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    Should i install a new water pump while im at it?
    Gen V, 3.0, Stage 2 heads, XP Cam, SD Headers, N*, LQ4, ZZP Stage 2 Gen 3 Intercooler, CAI, AL 104's Gapped to .055, #130 Springs, 42.5lb Injectors, ZZP Tune.

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  9. #29  
    Turbo is the way to go. REDCRAPGP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GOTIT4CHEAP16 View Post
    Should i install a new water pump while im at it?
    Cheap investment I did when I finished my cam install. Cost like $25 from advance I used a coupon code online and picked it up.
    Squirrels are my engine. I need a Ford Regal
    04 Comp G.
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  10. #30  
    GTX Level Member GOTIT4CHEAP16's Avatar
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    Cool definetly will replace it for a new one.

    Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
    Gen V, 3.0, Stage 2 heads, XP Cam, SD Headers, N*, LQ4, ZZP Stage 2 Gen 3 Intercooler, CAI, AL 104's Gapped to .055, #130 Springs, 42.5lb Injectors, ZZP Tune.

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  11. #31  
    Turbo is the way to go. REDCRAPGP's Avatar
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    I went as far as replacing the crankshaft sensor as well. Had a new one sitting around on my shelf figured ill save myself the hassle down the road but of course I wouldn't necessarily go out and buy a new one unless you have the extra money.
    Squirrels are my engine. I need a Ford Regal
    04 Comp G.
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  12. #32  
    GTX Level Member GOTIT4CHEAP16's Avatar
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    I mean...how often do crank sensors go out?

    Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
    Gen V, 3.0, Stage 2 heads, XP Cam, SD Headers, N*, LQ4, ZZP Stage 2 Gen 3 Intercooler, CAI, AL 104's Gapped to .055, #130 Springs, 42.5lb Injectors, ZZP Tune.

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  13. #33 Re: Need some help (Balancer removal/Engine stand) 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GOTIT4CHEAP16 View Post
    I mean...how often do crank sensors go out?

    Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
    it happens, seen a lot of them go bad here in the last 2 years. since you have a clear shot at it, why not change it, they only cost around 30 bucks i think.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  14. #34  
    Turbo is the way to go. REDCRAPGP's Avatar
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    Seems to be a hit or miss. Some guys won't have to change them for awhile others will be quick . It's a cheap part I think $40 and use a coupon code and it'll be cheap.
    Squirrels are my engine. I need a Ford Regal
    04 Comp G.
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  15. #35  
    GTX Level Member GOTIT4CHEAP16's Avatar
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    Ok ill just change it out for preventative maintenance purposes. I would hate to have to do it down the line when. The engine is inside the car lol....NIGHTMARE!!!! Advanced has all the good deals.

    Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
    Gen V, 3.0, Stage 2 heads, XP Cam, SD Headers, N*, LQ4, ZZP Stage 2 Gen 3 Intercooler, CAI, AL 104's Gapped to .055, #130 Springs, 42.5lb Injectors, ZZP Tune.

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  16. #36  
    Turbo is the way to go. REDCRAPGP's Avatar
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    That's exactly why I changed mine lol to avoid having to remove anything else once its back up and running. Advance always has good deals even better since its literally a 2 min walk across the street no need to go anywhere else lol. I do admit I abuse the use of there coupon codes. Ill order online, find a coupon code, wait 5 mins and walk across the street and pick it up lol.
    Squirrels are my engine. I need a Ford Regal
    04 Comp G.
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  17. #37 Re: Need some help (Balancer removal/Engine stand) 
    GTX Level Member GOTIT4CHEAP16's Avatar
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    Head Studs On and torqued.

    Gen V, 3.0, Stage 2 heads, XP Cam, SD Headers, N*, LQ4, ZZP Stage 2 Gen 3 Intercooler, CAI, AL 104's Gapped to .055, #130 Springs, 42.5lb Injectors, ZZP Tune.

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  18. #38 Re: Need some help (Balancer removal/Engine stand) 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    When you say on and torqued..

    Do you mean sealed and snugged? Because the paper in the box you got says .. hand tight.

    On the water pump, personally I don't do them until they are bad. Ours are easy to swap and for all you know the new one will die before your old one would have.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  19. #39  
    GTX Level Member GOTIT4CHEAP16's Avatar
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    I hand tight them in and followed a thread that said to torque then down to 10 ft lbs

    Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
    Gen V, 3.0, Stage 2 heads, XP Cam, SD Headers, N*, LQ4, ZZP Stage 2 Gen 3 Intercooler, CAI, AL 104's Gapped to .055, #130 Springs, 42.5lb Injectors, ZZP Tune.

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