Thread: Engine noise, then no-start

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  1. #1 Engine noise, then no-start 
    SE Level Member JerzNick's Avatar
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    Finally finished the build!

    HOWEVER, I'm not very happy about this... after finalizing every nut & bolt, I fired her up! Started immediately, Cam sounded awesome and idle was perfect for the most part... I let it run for about 10 mins and turned it off.

    Next day, finish up the mufflers and fire it up again, this time a lot of smoke in the engine bay from the paint burning off the headers. After running about 2 minutes, a loud knock started getting louder and louder... I whipped out my phone to film it then shut it off right away. I double checked just about everything, rocker arm torque etc.

    Now it won't start at all. If I hold WOT when starting it I get a tiny backfire.

    Any insight??!!

    First Start: http://youtu.be/uF4ZXJUpEr8

    Day 2 after mufflers: Motor noise gtp - YouTube
    Last edited by JerzNick; 12-03-2012 at 08:58 PM.
    Bored block, Eagle Crank, XP Cam, Ported Heads/LIM/Blower/TB, 3.0 Pulley, CAI, Headers, 42.5#, AL 104's, etc...
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  2. #2 Re: Engine noise, then no-start 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    Unplug maf and start it?

    But that sound does not sound good.

    SMGPFC Member #1
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  3. #3 Re: Engine noise, then no-start 
    SE Level Member JerzNick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch View Post
    Unplug maf and start it?

    But that sound does not sound good.
    Tried that. Btw, All sensors are new. MAF,MAP, Idle Air, Crank and cam.

    and no, it doesn't sound good
    Last edited by JerzNick; 12-03-2012 at 09:21 PM.
    Bored block, Eagle Crank, XP Cam, Ported Heads/LIM/Blower/TB, 3.0 Pulley, CAI, Headers, 42.5#, AL 104's, etc...
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  4. #4 Re: Engine noise, then no-start 
    GTP Level Member buickman104's Avatar
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    Was it a brand new cam or did you buy it used? Definitely sounds like something wrong with your valvetrain. If some spec was off on the cam then your valve train it will chew itself out.
    2000 Bronze Metallic GTP
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  5. #5 Re: Engine noise, then no-start 
    SE Level Member JerzNick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by buickman104 View Post
    Was it a brand new cam or did you buy it used? Definitely sounds like something wrong with your valvetrain. If some spec was off on the cam then your valve train it will chew itself out.
    Brand new cam. According to ZZperformance anyway.
    Bored block, Eagle Crank, XP Cam, Ported Heads/LIM/Blower/TB, 3.0 Pulley, CAI, Headers, 42.5#, AL 104's, etc...
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  6. #6 Re: Engine noise, then no-start 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Listened to it on the phoner.

    Fill us in on all the parts.
    Rockers?
    Pushrods?

    Pull the plugs and see if any show anything out of the ordinary.

    Triple check your plug wire routing/order. It sounds like two cylinders may be swapped. Then fire it back up wtih vid running and give it a couple of revs. That's how you can really tell if a bearing spun etc. So far..I'm not thinking a bearing.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

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  7. #7 Re: Engine noise, then no-start 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Picture of timing dots lining up?
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

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  8. #8  
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    Which lifters?
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  9. #9 Re: Engine noise, then no-start 
    SE Level Member JerzNick's Avatar
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    Bill: Double then Triple checked the Plug wire routing. Perfect. Pulled plugs (APP-606's) gap is fine, plugs are a little wet though.

    Have to pull the cover to get to the timing dots (which I think is the issue) Not sure how it went out of time on it's second start?!

    Matt: Compcam lifters, stock rockers, stock pushrods, XP-Cam, 105# springs.
    Bored block, Eagle Crank, XP Cam, Ported Heads/LIM/Blower/TB, 3.0 Pulley, CAI, Headers, 42.5#, AL 104's, etc...
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  10. #10 Re: Engine noise, then no-start 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Why comp lifters?
    Always..take a picture and if you did it right..it can't change time.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  11. #11 Re: Engine noise, then no-start 
    SE Level Member JerzNick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
    Why comp lifters?
    Always..take a picture and if you did it right..it can't change time.
    Needed new lifters, went with comp but I think that was a mistake.

    I remember the dots lining up perfectly, I should of took a pic! Maybe sprocket came loose?! I'm baffled!
    Bored block, Eagle Crank, XP Cam, Ported Heads/LIM/Blower/TB, 3.0 Pulley, CAI, Headers, 42.5#, AL 104's, etc...
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  12. #12 Re: Engine noise, then no-start 
    SE Level Member JerzNick's Avatar
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    After re-torquing the rockers (cause it sounded valve related) I get NO start at all! Only WOT during start gives me a backfire, That's why I'm thinking timing issue btw
    Bored block, Eagle Crank, XP Cam, Ported Heads/LIM/Blower/TB, 3.0 Pulley, CAI, Headers, 42.5#, AL 104's, etc...
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  13. #13 Re: Engine noise, then no-start 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Unplug the maf.

    You said the plugs were wet, was that with fuel or coolant?
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  14. #14  
    SE Level Member JerzNick's Avatar
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    Fuel. Are you thinking head gasket?
    Bored block, Eagle Crank, XP Cam, Ported Heads/LIM/Blower/TB, 3.0 Pulley, CAI, Headers, 42.5#, AL 104's, etc...
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  15. #15 Re: Engine noise, then no-start 
    GT Level Member RivMan's Avatar
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    Something to look into as well. Verify that the crank pulley is aligned properly. I remember Thrasher demonstrating how easy it was to install a cam when they were first available in the parking lot at GPG. They installed the crank pulley with an impact, and it made it's own keyway. The timing was off enough that the car never could quite fire. If your crank pulley slipped a little, it could cause what your seeing.

    -Rob
    2004 GPGT - L32 Swap, CompG Trans - Click Here!
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  16. #16  
    SE Level Member JerzNick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RivMan View Post
    Something to look into as well. Verify that the crank pulley is aligned properly. I remember Thrasher demonstrating how easy it was to install a cam when they were first available in the parking lot at GPG. They installed the crank pulley with an impact, and it made it's own keyway. The timing was off enough that the car never could quite fire. If your crank pulley slipped a little, it could cause what your seeing.

    -Rob
    Funny you say that, I watched the shop put my crank pulley on with a impact as well. I will look at that as soon as I get home, thank you.
    Bored block, Eagle Crank, XP Cam, Ported Heads/LIM/Blower/TB, 3.0 Pulley, CAI, Headers, 42.5#, AL 104's, etc...
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  17. #17 Re: Engine noise, then no-start 
    SE Level Member JerzNick's Avatar
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    Bill, Attached is a picture of the timing marks... Also a picture of what might be the culprit.

    IMG_0105.jpg


    FML...IMG_0106.jpg
    Bored block, Eagle Crank, XP Cam, Ported Heads/LIM/Blower/TB, 3.0 Pulley, CAI, Headers, 42.5#, AL 104's, etc...
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  18. #18 Re: Engine noise, then no-start 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    A dinged up cam keyway can cause issues. I don't think timing would be that far out at this point. Definately something that has to be addressed.

    Putting a balancer on with an impact isn't a bad thing. However if you sit the balancer on the crank w/o rotating it and pushing to seat it on the keyway, that's when you screw up the keyway/balancer if you torque it. I've seen people do this with and without impact. Not sure why they wouldn't line it up, it has a groove and the crank has a key to fit in that groove.
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  19. #19  
    GT Level Member RivMan's Avatar
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    Your first photo shows that the timing gear isn't lined up properly with the gear behind it. Probably your issue there.

    -Rob
    2004 GPGT - L32 Swap, CompG Trans - Click Here!
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  20. #20 Re: Engine noise, then no-start 
    SE Level Member JerzNick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
    A dinged up cam keyway can cause issues. I don't think timing would be that far out at this point. Definately something that has to be addressed.

    Putting a balancer on with an impact isn't a bad thing. However if you sit the balancer on the crank w/o rotating it and pushing to seat it on the keyway, that's when you screw up the keyway/balancer if you torque it. I've seen people do this with and without impact. Not sure why they wouldn't line it up, it has a groove and the crank has a key to fit in that groove.
    I hope Compcam will warranty this. The cam is brand new! Turns out the balancer was lined up on the crank with no issues.

    Quote Originally Posted by RivMan View Post
    Your first photo shows that the timing gear isn't lined up properly with the gear behind it. Probably your issue there.

    -Rob
    How is it off? They look perfectly lined up to me...
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