Engine overheated cracked the heads and manifold/ L67! Block?? Suggestions!!

**99GTP** · 11-17-2012

I have already replaced my heads, now I am down to the block on the stand not sure what I should do! The motor has 150k on it not sure if I should take it and have it checked for cracks and just start building it from there! Basically Im willing to build this thing just dont know what steps I should take to get this project finished!I have everything from the head gaskets up. Just want the block too be in good shape also. Should I just go ahead and build or try to see if I can run what I already have?? Any feed back greatly appreciated!!

**Scottydoggs** · 11-17-2012

make sure the cylinder deck is flat, you can use a metal straight edge and a light to look for light to peek through from under the straight edge, if your seeing light, have the block cylinder deck resurfaced.

**99GTP** · 11-17-2012

What about bearings,rings and pistons, it got hot!! it blew the head gasket. White condensation blew out the exhaust! Would it just be smart to let the machine shop take a peep!! And if it comes down to it, i want to build it up while it broke down! rings, bearings, timing chain/gears, oil pump, ect... and camming the stock heads, is a xp cam the way to go?

**Scottydoggs** · 11-17-2012

if it didnt start to bang on you id think the bottom end is ok. or milk shake the oil.

if you want a rebuilt motor just have it rebuilt by a shop that has done the 3800 before. its not like rebuilding a sb Chevy 350, lots of machine work needs to be done. or they tend to blow up in in a few hundred miles.

**99GTP** · 11-17-2012

No Banging, or milky oil, and no metal shavings when i drained it! I was told that the rod bearing were probally scorched so that why i am leaning towards just building it while i have it out!! JUST LOOKING FOR SOME ADVICE, but if i do decide to build it i want to throw that xp cam in there, what else should i do along with that! And the new heads are ported and polished stock! Is that compatable?

**Tuner-Extraordinaire** · 11-17-2012

Word of caution.

I had this same thing happen to me due to a WP that suddenly had a catastrophic failure, Heads seemed to be fine, replaced the WP, replaced the HG's, replaced all coolant and properly bled the system, then buttoned it all back up.

Ran great and pulled good and hard once it warmed up. -- 10 miles later, knock of death started and there went my 213k mile L67.

**99GTP** · 11-17-2012

Rebuild then huh? i guess better to be safe than sorry!! Im prepared for it im just wanting to find a nice setup that is reliable!

**Tuner-Extraordinaire** · 11-17-2012

I'd shy away from a rebuild too.

Mine's been down since mid july, and i've done little with it other than keep the tires off the ground and give it a handwash every couple weeks.

I'll probably just end up putting another L67 in it again with all the trimmings.

**99GTP** · 11-17-2012

Well with all new everything going in my l67 now after the machine shop does its magic,I have all new, gaskets, heads, supercharger,ect. whats the down fall?

**98GPGT2D** · 11-17-2012

I, as a mechanic, would ship it off to the machine shop and have it checked out, and at least have the rod and main meanings plasti-gauged at least. That will give the machinist a rough idea of how worn the rod and main bearings are and he can advise you of what he thinks you should do. If all checks out well, I don't see the hurt in doing a cam and some top end mods to compliment it.

Jay

**GTP89** · 11-17-2012

Personally I wouldn't let a machine shop do work on the bottom end stock is the way to go. Leave it alone. If you want to get it Checked go ahead and take it to em but not rebuild it.
Just my .02

**99GTP** · 11-18-2012

Ok so if your car overheated,blew the head gasket, cracked both heads, and one of the manifolds with the stock block at 150,000 miles, the stock bottom end is strong enough to get that hot with out having too touch it?

**GTP89** · 11-18-2012

What I mean is they can check it but I wouldn't recommend getting it built just get another l67 if it's bad.
But if you see no cracks or damage to the block itself or it didn't make a knock I would say its still good but you never know. These blocks can handle pretty good.

**99GTP** · 11-18-2012

I started it trying to diag. it before i ripped it apart and it the bottom seemed fine but i was misfiring and ticking through the manifold, its probally is ok but shouldnt I atleast do the oil pump, timing chain, ect, while its out? I took the heads and had them magnafluxed and they were both cracked between all valves. So I got new heads that are ready to go, now im just trying to fighure out the best route to go with the block before I put it all back together!

**TEK310** · 11-18-2012

i have a rebuilt L32 block, with clevite 77 rod and main bearings with arp rod studs, been 8k miles. still rollin strong

**99GTP** · 11-18-2012

Thats what im saying, why not just rebuild it stronger than stock! It will be basically brand new!

**Scottydoggs** · 11-18-2012

because most of the time, a stock bottom end will out last one thats been rebuilt. some have done it, many have failed. and thats from a shop rebuilding it as well. if they dont know how to rebuild this 3800, go where they have done them.

a 3800 is not a 350 or a 396, you cant just rebuild it, lots of machine work is NEEDED, and its not free. this is why most will opt for a used short block.

**99GTP** · 11-18-2012

I understand! Im just going to drop the block off at the machine shop and have them take a peep! They said that they just built a 3800 so I guess we will see whats the word! Thanks for the feed back just thought that would see what other peoples opinion would be on the subject! Anymore advice is appreciated!!

**TEK310** · 11-18-2012

the biggest thing is out of roundness of the main bore. make sure they check for that, and line bore it if its not true to spec. with new main and rod bolts.

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