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10-25-2012
Look on the top of the SC... dead center. The fuel rail goes over that hole and the bolt goes into it. It's a 13mm, then the engine cover goes on..and the black plastic coated 13mm nut holds the engine cover onto that stud.
That's the stud you'd maybe have in your charger bolts. orrrrrrr
IT's a 10mm stud with a 10mm nut. This would go on the rear driverside of the charger by the throttle body. then the EGR shield is held to the stud by that 10mm nut.
10-25-2012
Just so you know. If you took a picture and posted it. I could tell you almost any bolt on this engine.
10-25-2012
Gotcha. Yeah it was the 10mm and you pointed m in the right direction for that. Time for the rails to go back on.
10-25-2012
It's all done now. Only thing wrong was I'm missing a bolt/nut that goes on the stud we talking about earlier (EGR I guess).
There was a buttload of knock when first started, but after a few seconds it quieted (guessing that was the oil change). Bleeding the cooling system was a pain and I ended up saying **** it. I dumped a gallon of full strength dex in, then tried to put a gallon of water in. Even when the T-stat opened and was bleeding red, I still couldn't get the full gallon in. I ended up getting somewhere around half gallon in the rad, then I just dumped the rest into the overflow. I've spent 16 hours on this and I'm done :\
10-25-2012
change the oil again
10-25-2012
I'd rather go with this because it doesn't make sense to change oil after a mere 20 minutes of idling under its belt.Originally Posted by dsmuts
Don't need pics. Once its all back together, change the oil and then flush the coolant. Drive the car for a week or 2 and change the oil again and flush the coolant again. No more worries.
10-25-2012
I'd be pretty worried that it was knocking after start up but I like my engine to stay running so better safe than sorry.
10-25-2012
It was started several times after that and never knocked, I'm pretty sure it just took a few seconds for the oil to make its rounds through a bone-dry motor.
10-25-2012
Welp looks like I have bigger issues.
I had two DTCs set. One was oil pressure which was cleared. One was EVAP which was also cleared. The codes haven't returned, but now if I'm idle and blip the throttle, the rpms go up and actually increase slightly after a second, then it idles back down in a very rough way. It started perfectly though.
EDIT: Found evap was unplugged whoops!. I may have a vacuum leak. I can hear air getting sucked in. DAMMIT.
10-25-2012
Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. Did you torque everything down?
10-25-2012
Yes. 11 ft/lbs on the LIM and 17ft lbs on the SC.
I sprayed everywhere around where the noise was, and all vac hoses, and the idle never moved (verified by DHP). The noise sounded like it was coming from between the SC and then LIM, but spraying around there did nothing. I used the garlock gasket off ZZP so I would think that shouldn't be a problem.
Anyways I ended up taking it for a couple of spins. The problem ended up almost going away (it's markedly improved). Do these ECMs have an idle relearn period? I Could tell the tranny needed to relearn because god those shifts were soft as hell the first trip.
I also left the engine cover off. Maybe I'm hearing noises that were always there but I never heard before with the cover on. I'm amazed by how much louder the SC is with that cover off, so who knows. At this point idk.
10-25-2012
Your problem could lie with the garlock gasket they are known to leak.
10-26-2012
Yea Garleaks are problematic. Stock is best unless you want to RTV it in place lol
Originally Posted by AmericanSoldier
10-26-2012
Great. Guess I'll be getting a stock gasket then and having to tear all of this apart AGAIN. With a hurricane around the corner too!
Another code set. 0171 Fuel system trim lean, so yeah, it's definitely sucking air in. GRRR.
May I ask why the gasket sucks? It looked like a solid piece to me, but I dn't really know anything when it coems to that.
Last edited by tonglebeak; 10-26-2012 at 04:35 PM.
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