Running PCV on gen V swap L67?

[sseigtp]

I have a 98 GTP, I did a gen V top swap. I got the adapter plate so I could keep my stock throttle body(its ported), {Not intercooled}The EGR, EVAP and cat are all deleted and codes were deleted so i don't get engine lights and stuff. I was told to just cap off the pcv on the back of the supercharger, but now im hearing that that is not right. how should i run the pcv line if its not really suppose to be capped?

[gtpeddie]

interested to hear some info on this im going to be swapping mine soon

[sseigtp]

I finally found what I need to do with the pcv. Ya if you have any question let me know. I can give you a run down of everything that has to be changed/modified and bought.

[MoarkatsINmuhtrailer]

Brass plug on the bottom of the l67 tb needs drilled out and tapped with a nipple in its place. Put hose from the back of the gen v to the nipple and be done.

[BillBoost37]

Let's link it.

http://www.grandprixforums.net/how-g...her-44478.html

[Swiggles]

If you delete the evap on the genV the you need to plug the hole on the back under the pcv nipple. That's the hole for the genv evap.

I don't understand why people delete the evap though.

[sseigtp]

Went I got my car the evap and egr were deleted. I ran the vacuum line from the pcv nipple to under the throttle body like the pictures show. I made sure none of the lines are leaking. When the car is at idle the vacuum stays at -8.8psi. I know it should be lower like -15 or something.... Idk what's goin on cuz its also not reach high enough boost when I'm goin full throttle either. Idk if i messed up something or if i missed something. If u guys got any ideas let me know? Also i can post pics of how I ran everything if u guys want.

[sseigtp]

Are u talking about doing the block off plate on the side next to the pcv nipple or does the pcv nipple need to be blocked???

[sseilmnop]

Post up some pictures

[BillBoost37]

Pictures....

BTW 8.8psi is about 15-17 hg in, which sounds about right.

[sseigtp]

Okay my misstake It's reading -8.5 inHg at idle.

[sseigtp]

up loading pics sucks really bad on this site. its keeps saying there to big, i resized them a million times here are the ones i got to work so farIMAG0432.jpgIMAG0431.jpg

[sseigtp]

i don't have any leaks, i sprayed everything with carb/throttle cleaner and nothing.... now its staying at -10.1 inHG at idle...

[sseigtp]

alright, this is embarrassing, the carb cleaner i used didn't make the rpms change when i sprayed. after i actually found the leak and when i found the hole i started spraying the carb cleaner in it and it still didn't do anything. but i figured out the problem. also all my lines are aftermarket and run to a black rectangular box where each hose runs to each spot separately, unlike the oem lines that run around with fittings.
this is what i have on my car(link below), all the ports have brass fittings with barbs for the hoses
CorSport: Universal Parts - Engine - Vacuum Sources/Hoses - 2691/2690

[Swiggles]

I'm using rubber lines with brass T's but I don't have that black box you are talking about. Cars these days don't react to the carb cleaner trick on small leaks, the PCM reacts quickly to compensate for the added fuel of the cleaner.

I have the pcv going right to the tb, no T on that vac line. So the nipple on the back goes to the tb and the other vac line just stops at the fuel pressure regulator.

To clarify, my vac starts at the bbv then T to the lim, then T to the map sensor (i have a T just before the map for my boost gauge but if you dont have one then dont worry about that), and ends with the fuel pressure regulator. Then a separate line on the pcv nipple to the tb.

The order doesn't really matter as long as they are all together. The pcv should be separate though.