who is running E85?

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Originally Posted by Quicklynx

So what I got out of reading that was that Bio248, Sabrewings, and riceburner are all right and maybe a little wrong, but not really.

There were other ways than this but I liked this one the best!

1. the bigger injectors, frpe82 adviced this formula "Calculating useable injector size:
(CURRENT INJECTOR SIZE x 1.39) up to (CURRENT INJECTOR SIZE x 1.6)"

"To get a satisfying injector flow on stock injectors, you will probably have to go to 5.5bar (80psi) or more..." - frpe82

2. an adjustable FPR that flows 40% more than our stock one (people who only want economical gains) or 60% (people that want performance as well), and a mounting bracket

3. An upgraded fuel pump (luckily for me i have 4 or 5 Walbro 255lph lying around from the Talon...)

4. You'll need 30-35" new soft fuel lines, 20-25" vacuum hose, t-junction, hose clamps

As for supporting mods frpe82 didn't say much. I kind of got out of it that if you are only doing it for economical purposes and not modifying your car for a lot more power then you should be fine with the basic setup (40% upgraded flow from the FPR). However, he was running a turbocharged volvo. My judgement on this is that with the basic setup, without high modification to the vehicle, the Supercharged models would be ok. I don't know how the N/A guys would handle.

Did someone mention that the LSx guys were doing this? Maybe they'd be better help for the N/A aspect of proper airflow.

If you have more modifications, headers, more forced induction, etc.., then you should probably run a FPR with a 50-60% higher flow.

NOTE!!!: He mentioned that this can cost a lot of money if our ecu's need reflashed/programmed etc. just to put the setup in and just as much money if we decide we don't want the setup later on down the road.

He explains in great details why HIS ecu didn't need to be reflashed but he did anyway for better fuel mileage.

The article was great and very well wrote. He explains stuff in moderate detail but nothing you can't google to understand further.


I am pretty positive I'm leaning towards this modification. I've already begun to fermentate some chopped corn. (I've been making wine for about a year and a half now so I had the supplies)

I am going to agree with Sabrewings. It is probably a really good idea to get a good amount of supporting airflow mods before converting just to be on the safe side.

Wish me luck!

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I wrote this several months ago. This was my perception that I got and without any guidance from anyone else on understanding it. I asked if people could elaborate what I wrote here and even make corrections or add to it. I think I was on the right track, although as I researched further it seems as if most of this is overkill. Would you (Mike, Riggs, anyone else) mind examining this and tell me what it needs, doesn't need, etc.. I plan on using ethanol for performance gains on a daily driver car. Thanks

If some things I wrote are wrong, and I'm sure some things are, I would like it to be corrected so others don't take bad information from my ignorance that results in harm to their vehicle.

youre going to need bigger injectors and a tune. you then need to change your fuel filter a few times after you start running it because it will clean out all the junk in your tank. depending upon how much fuel you are using (your mod lists extensiveness) you may need a bigger fuel pump and a fuel pump rewire. with a basic setup, 42.5# injectors should be fine, but if youre running in the sub-3.2 ish pullies you will definately need 65# injectors.

the lines and everything will not be affected. ethanol is not corrosive.

awesome, thanks for the info. i probably wont be going any lower than 3.4 for the forseeable future. I have a rewire and a walbro pump. as for the fuel filter... piece of cake.

ZZP claims they have the best flowing fuel filter and what not. does it really matter? is it that much a performance gain or inhibitor to worry about other than cleaning your fuel? thanks

to clarify... zzp's claims are a joke and i dont trust them to be honest, just using them as an example

nah, id just switch to the flex fuel filters that they use in other GM cars. not sure which one, but im sure i could figure it out.

You can use the filter's out of the new tahoe's. They snap right in to where our's goes at.

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Originally Posted by Quicklynx

to clarify... zzp's claims are a joke and i dont trust them to be honest, just using them as an example

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Very well put. I'm glad i'm not alone.

yea ill check on the flex fuel filters.... I have a question though. how exactly do the flex fuel vehicles work and can i make the GP sort of flex fuel?

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Originally Posted by Quicklynx

yea ill check on the flex fuel filters.... I have a question though. how exactly do the flex fuel vehicles work and can i make the GP sort of flex fuel?

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Just a thought if you clean it out to run E85...wouldn't you have to swap back injectors, fuel filter, AND run a larger pulley if you are going back to gas?

Not really but the tune would have to be changed for sure.

Yea I'm thinking since I have HPtuners and I usually have my laptop with me it shouldn't be hard to design a flex fuel system

FWIW someone on CGP that I pm'd sent me a reply back and stated that All he had to do to run E85 was incrase his IFR table by 30%. And that was it. He is running a turbo'ed setup.


It makes sense to a certain point. And i'm not sure why this guy would lie to me. He also run's low 10's.


Just figured i'd throw it out there.

That's true all you have to do is scale the IFR by 30%. As long as the 93 octane tune is pretty good/decent nothing further needs to be done. For hptuners you actually subtract 30%, and dhp you add 30%. I'm still not sure why everyone thinks there's more involved than that. HOWEVER, you have 105 octane now, so leaving the timing, AFR, and boost the same would be stupid so you'll be messing with other tables you don't "need" to. :th_peaceout:

30* WOT timing? sweet.

eeek maybe n/a, do that in an m90 car and the motor will :th_angry-censored:

however, i can say from experience my car loved 23-24* of timing midrange and 21* at the top. It pulled like a bat out hell for just being a non-i/c'd rocker car. I never had a good run at the track, but i pulled 106mph traps on a 90 degree day. I'm hoping to have some better luck this year at the track. Maybe get stuff ready the day before instead of in the staging lanes would be a good idea... :th_shakinghead1:

And why would you lower the IFR table in HPT?

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Originally Posted by TDCRacing

And why would you lower the IFR table in HPT?

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Accounts for the 30% increase in fuel, since lowering the IFR tables adds fuel. Increasing the IFR table would lean everything out beyond what the fuel trims can fix and cause all kinds of problems.

DHP is the exact opposite so you have to try not to confuse the two.

yeah, i know. i was planning on running maybe 20*. it is my DD and i dont want to push it that hard. i am going to need a new block at some point anyway since my oil pressure is continually dropping. even with 10w-40 now my oil pressure when the car has been driven for a while is like 9 psi at idle.

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Originally Posted by Bio248

yeah, i know. i was planning on running maybe 20*. it is my DD and i dont want to push it that hard. i am going to need a new block at some point anyway since my oil pressure is continually dropping. even with 10w-40 now my oil pressure when the car has been driven for a while is like 9 psi at idle.

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lol wow that's actually pretty low :th_nervous: I'd say screw it and run it as hard as i did lol you've got nothing to lose in a sense. Blow it up or wait for it to spin a bearing and throw in a high compression bottom end to take advantage of the E85 :th_winking:

yeap. i was planning on switching back to an l36 block when this one goes down. i just dont want to have to do it anytime soon since i am unemployed. the job market sucks a fat one right now.