Thread: Subframe Bolts

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  1. #1 Subframe Bolts 
    GT Level Member JJ91284's Avatar
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    What are you guys tightening the subframe bolts to? I tightened mine to 133 lb ft and my subframe still makes a clunking sound under extreme braking/Fast acceleration/cornering since I dropped my cradle to rebuild my trans.

    Anyone have an ideas?
    1997 Black GTP 72k (4dr), 3.5 Pulley, Wbody Downpipe, Wbody Shift kit (street), DHP 1.0, NGK TR55ix Spark Plugs, GMP Handling kit, KYB AGX Struts, AT Italia Inox 245x45x18 Goodyear Eagle F1, GMPP Springs, Corvette C5 Calipers, Blazertech 3200, DHP Powertuner (97-03), Built Trans, Torsen Diff
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  2. #2 Re: Subframe Bolts 
    youtu.be/xhrBDcQq2DM FoSHO99's Avatar
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    Are you sure its your subframe?

    Maybe your swaybar endlinks broke after reinstalling.
    2001 GTP PT61 Turbo, E85, Stock Motor
    2011 Chevy Cruze MT6 1.4L Turbo
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  3. #3 Re: Subframe Bolts 
    GT Level Member TurboKent's Avatar
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    I've heard the bolts are torque to yield. meaning they are only good for one use and once you remove them you have to get new ones.
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  4. #4 Re: Subframe Bolts 
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    Quote Originally Posted by TurboKent View Post
    I've heard the bolts are torque to yield. meaning they are only good for one use and once you remove them you have to get new ones.
    Not true.



    And x2 on making sure it's your actual subframe making that noise.
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  5. #5 Re: Subframe Bolts 
    GT Level Member JJ91284's Avatar
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    I purchased new sub frame bolts because my Helms manual said to. My entire front suspension is relatively new (GMPP Handling kit, GMPP Springs, AGX struts, New Strut Moutns, Springs, Ball Joints, tie-rods, ect). I'm almost positive its the sub frame bolts as that is what would cause a popping sound when braking really hard or accelerating quickly.


    I think I'm going to put my transverse engine support on again and try relieving some weight and I'll try retorqueing the bolts. I never removed the sway bar to drop my cradle as you don't have too.


    My subframe prior to tranny install

    Last edited by JJ91284; 08-25-2008 at 11:06 PM.
    1997 Black GTP 72k (4dr), 3.5 Pulley, Wbody Downpipe, Wbody Shift kit (street), DHP 1.0, NGK TR55ix Spark Plugs, GMP Handling kit, KYB AGX Struts, AT Italia Inox 245x45x18 Goodyear Eagle F1, GMPP Springs, Corvette C5 Calipers, Blazertech 3200, DHP Powertuner (97-03), Built Trans, Torsen Diff
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  6. #6 Re: Subframe Bolts 
    I live here. UR LOSN's Avatar
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    I did mine to 180ftlbs....with locktite.

    havent heard anything, and havent had the car out...lol
    2001 GTP- PT76 turbo, Intense Drag cars old engine, Stage 4 Intense turbo cam,FMIC,150 wet,Double roller timing chain,Diamond forged coated pistons 8:0:1,Diamond piston rings,Cryoed L32 connecting rods,Cryoed crank,Clevite77 main bearings,Clevite77 cam bearings,Clevite77 L32 rod bearings,ARP Everything, Intense/meizere true billet Flexplate,Intense Wilson UIM/LIM,Intense oil pressure kit,Cometic,OE-R lifters,Cryoed L67 block,ATI turbo dampner,80# inject,Weldon 2035 fp,Aero Fuel Rails,AL cradle
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  7. #7 Re: Subframe Bolts 
    GXP Level Member Blown97's Avatar
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    I have this same issue except I don't have to take off like crazy or brake like crazy to get it to do it. I did tighten the sub frame bolts and noticed that most of it disappeared (not all of it) but I figured that if they were lose and the sub frame was sliding (clunking) back and fourth it probably galled the threads on the bolts. Therefore, because the threads were possibly messed up my torque readings might be off and the bolts might not be tightened enough or correctly.
    3.4", 3" cated DP, SLP Air box, TB spacer, 180* Thermo, "Bilemke Tuning".

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